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Cyrious

WTB Solid Clutch

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Does anyone have a solid clutch for sale? Or know of a good affordable one? Needs to be able to hold 300-400.

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I used an act hd pp and stage 3 disk. It was awesome.

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spec stage 3. I've run spec clutches for a few years and the stage 3 lasted me like....2 full seasons. even held 460hp/440tq when it was rated for just barely over that. after 2 years on the same clutch it only started slipping when i was trying to have insane wheel speeds by drifting in 4th on a 3rd gear course.

 

now i run a stage 4 spec and have no issues!

 

very easy pedal too, close to stock!

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You might find more help if you listed what trans it's for

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R154 obviously. I meant to mention the reason why I pulled it was to rebuild. Noticed my clutch was glazed from slipping at 5000rpm ish

Ill check out the spec clutches. They sound reasonable. I had an action 6 puck with a stock PP. The disk hub is totally warped. P.O.S.

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Im running a Clutch Masters Stage something or other. I know Mats has hookups on them as he mentioned in another thread. His seems to be doing fine in FD.

 

Mine has been in there since I bought the car (4+ years ago) and I've beat the fuck out of it. Who knows what it saw before I got it. Trans blew and when I pulled the trans the clutch and everything was still fine. I don't know what they are worth but when the time comes for a new one I'll be hitting up Mats for another one no question. Super easy to daily on too.

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do lots of people on here actually run solid hub clutches? I always thought the shock loads from them were a surefire way to break shit and they sucked to drive

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No, solid clutches won't really RUIN anything. Atleast I have had no issues running them. That being said, I would reccomend a Southbend Clutch.

 

Clutch%20Disk%20Front.JPG

 

I have been so happy, these fucking things take so much abuse, especially with my titanium supra hub.

 

You can contact my buddy and close friend Tim @ TMZPerformance for deals on these. They start at 199$

 

I've had one in my cressida for so long, and it still looks new and unglazed, even after zillions of kicks.

 

http://www.tmzperformance.com/

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Unsprung clutches eat input shaft splines over time. However, theres actually less shock load and easier engagement as long as everything is solid mounted.

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I agree with austin, or if you have a clutchnet clutch, it eats away the splines in the clutch cause they're made of what appears to be copper. Lel. Junk.

 

 

The pucked clutches are the ones that actually fuck your shit up. In my opinion.

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Nah, pucks are ok as long as they're matched to the pp and pad area.

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^ That was the exact problem with my action 6 puck. the hub in the actual disk was super warped and was causing serious drivetrain vibration and clutch chatter. Probably from hammering so hard on clutch kicks.

I'll deffinately be checking out the southbend clutches. What series/stage are you using if you can remember?

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I'm using the SS-X with the Titanium supra hub for clutch kicks. That's kind of the beauty, I bought the clutch in 2012, and It still looks totally good with no issues of glazing/extreme wear.

Just like the South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Clutch Kit, this setup has a higher capacity pressure plate than what is publicly offered by SBC. It is a custom upgrade, and has a pressure plate clamping force of ~2700#, resulting in a torque capacity increase of 100TQ over the regular SS-Pressure Plate. This bumps up the torque capacity rating to 600TQ with the TZ-Series Kevlar Disk It is an excellent choice for DSM's making up to 550-600TQ while retaining a decent street clutch feel.

(Yeah, DSM's whatever. Works fucking great regardless)
Their special TZ-Series Sprung Full-Face Kevlar clutch disk is capable of handling substantially more power and abuse than an organic street disk without excessive wear or glazing issues. The Kevlar material allows the clutch to be slipped like a street disk, but engage like a puck-clutch when you drop the hammer! It is also very forgiving on flywheel friction surfaces and won't shred the flywheel surface. If you are intending on street-driving this clutch as its main use, you are fine with any stock or aftermarket flywheel (ACT, Fidanza, etc.). If you are intending on regularly racing the car with multiple passes of back-to-back launches and very high clutch surface temperatures, TMZ Performance recommends that you use an ACT Streetlite Chromoly Steel flywheel or the stock flywheel as it has a better capacity of dissipating heat than an aluminum flywheel with a steel replacement friction surface. IF YOU USE AN ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL WITH THIS CLUTCH DISK -- LET THE CAR COOL DOWN BETWEEN RUNS!!! This is strongly recommended because the aluminum flywheel and the replacement carbon steel friction surface have different expansion rates and heat dissipation rates. You can warp your replacement flywheel friction surface from extended high-heat launches and abuse! With that said, we recommend ACT StreetLite Chromoly Steel flywheels for high-power and heavy-abuse racers that are doing alot of launches back-to-back with little cool-down time! If you are doing primarily street driving, and some races here and there, while allowing proper cool-down of the clutch between runs, the Fidanza Aluminum flywheel is a great choice. These warnings are being disclosed to people that are making high horsepower/torque and are constantly racing! This clutch is extremely capable, and is an excellent street/strip clutch that can handle alot of abuse and still keep on kicking for alot of miles! Even if you overheat the clutch, its Kevlar material won't glaze or burn off like an organic street disk would. If you allow the clutch to cool down, it will return to normal operating conditions and clutch modulation.
Honestly just call Tim, tell him Lofty sent you, and he will be MORE than happy to assist in power goals and all that.

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That clutch lofty posted looks pretty awesome, i run a similar looking centerforce in my car with no problems

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Judging from the picture above that disk appears to be an exedy.

 

The clutch masters are a little pricey.

 

South bend and spec clutches seem to be legit. I don't really want to spend more than 500 if I'm not planning on making more than 400hp.

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The south bend kevlars are rated to 500tq. Roughly $235 for a disk if you have a decent PP.

 

I've owned 3 of these discs for different cars. They outlasted the car, really hard to go wrong.

 

Pm me if you have any issues or questions. I should take pictures of mine that I pulled after 10k miles. I just hate paying for brand name OS Giken shit when Southbend has such awesome products.

 

Edit: The TZ discs are only specific to TMZPerformance, as he R&D'd the shit.

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What are you using for pressure plate? How much do the titanium hubs go for and do they come with the release bearing and snap rings?

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Im using the SS-X kit I believe. You will have to contact TMZ because I honestly do not remember :/

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the owner of spec is a customer of mine. Spec hq is like 20 minutes from my shop. i don't run spec. quality is shitty, i've had so many failures i can't count them. i get a steep discount and i still would rather run almost anything else.

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