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swim

giving up, giving in

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have you thought about sand blasting the whole bay or is that just a bad idea?

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Why fork out for a cage when there is no guarentee this thing is going to end up moving under it's own power?

 

you have yet to run a jz swap, other than that stock shit you could barely change the timing belt on...

 

Skitzo is onto something...

 

more work, less talk :thumbsup:

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SVBIsJC.jpg

 

Streeter is fucking awesome. These showed up today.

Looks like gartmaiers are good for rebarreling, they've actually already got the backs of the faces tapped for blind assembly screws so there's 39 screws holding them together, which means they're safe to use with true split lips and barrels. Here's a close up of what I'm talking about

 

9bTnTWa.jpg

 

I found a source for dirt ass cheap standard 40h lips and barrels, so I guess I'm going to order one lip and one barrel after they get back from holiday vacation over there and see if they actually fit these SSR faces. I'm going to build one rear first, it will end up being around 18x10.5 -32.

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http://www.amcrimhalves.com/ distributes "triangle hard alloys" spun wheel halves which fit most standard american split wheels and therefore "some" japanese wheels. I think they'll fit most SSR's with the valve stem centered in the 40th hole, but I really want to order a pair and make absolutely sure.

It's fucking wild how nobody talks about rebarreling wheels, it's like as soon as anyone figures it out they turn it into a business and start selling relipped wheels for $3000 a set on stanceworks. I've got a day job, so I just want to know how the fuck to get widebody-friendly sizes and offsets without paying stanceworks prices.

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Are these AMC lips not polished? I can hardly find any info on these, but damn I should go buy some weak SSRs now...

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they come raw, so you can polish and anodize them or powdercoat them or whatever. I was just going to powdercoat mine because fuck the upkeep on polished wheels.

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This thing should be sent out to automotive media blasting company for a complete blast.Plastic media or a soda blast is what this car needs.Sand blasting can warp automotive panels requiring bodo repairs when finished hence why plastic or soda is the way to go.

Seriously man shell out the bucks for a media blast and then spray some epoxy on this bitch and you should be good to go.You will also need to redo all the factory seam sealer in the engine bay which was probably destroyed in the fire.

Do it right or don't bother at all.You will save your self a major headache imo.

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Interested in seeing how the wheels turn out. I have three sets I'd love to work out, but not looking to go nearly as aggressive as you.

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"Prices dont mean shit on that site unless your a retail business, we have looked into them. Add 65% to all prices before you think" - some local guy

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Good thing swim and I both have "retail businesses"

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I just meant getting the motor in and running before you change your ind/give up/lose interest etc. I just want to see this working and progress made.

 

I wonder if those lips will fit Weds rims. I picked up a set of 20" Weds Kranze LXZ in 8 + 41 for $200 that im going to relip to 9.5 and 10.5.

 

edit: Little google leans me to belive that wheelflip use the same lips that AMC sell. So ill have to pull one apart and email wheelflip (they know what is needed for various Jap rims) and suss out what they can supply, whether it is off the shelf or custom, and then head to AMC.

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If FD copied their rules about electrical from NHRA it might actually be safe. I'm pretty sure they still don't require a breaker at the battery.

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If FD copied their rules about electrical from NHRA it might actually be safe. I'm pretty sure they still don't require a breaker at the battery.

 

Noap :P

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Bosch Injectors are really fucking cheap. Just ordered (6) 47lb/min ~500cc topfeeds from a dude on ebay for $192 shipped.

 

0280158117

 

wzAYnfM.jpg

 

they're 48mm o-ring to o-ring, and have a 14mm top o-ring, so you need an adapter to make them fit a stock or stock-style fuel rail. the adapter needs to be 1/2" tall, and have an 11mm o-ring on top. The blue Injector Dynamics adapters, part # 48.60.11 should work perfect. Also, probably need to order the "denso injector cushions" which are ID part # 92.0

 

Total should be around $275 and $300. You need USCAR connectors to make the harness, and they're high imp so you don't need a resistor box. Cheers.

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kyle made me this so I can recirc my blowoff valve back to the intake

 

G7oS6vA.jpg

 

this is what that SARD rail looks like

 

LoZcghB.jpg

 

should I run a wye fitting and feed the rail from both ends and put the return in the middle, or feed it from the back, cap the middle, and return out the front? going to be all -6AN either way.

 

not sure about an FPR yet, but it's definitely either going to be aeromotive or fuelab or turbosmart or magnafuel or something else.

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I've come to terms with the fact that "just dropping it in on the stock harness and ECU without messing with a bunch of stuff" is a shitty idea and isn't going to happen, so I started ripping the bullshit I don't need off the motor. ordered a blockoff plate for the IACV because I'm too much of a puss to make one myself. I think I'm going to try and make an adapter to put a stock LS1 throttle on here, hopefully it's not too large, the stock TB is tiny. I've got an idea for COP's, so we'll see how that turns out.

 

2tQBXPd.jpg

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I need to figure out if I'm using it or not first, but maybe. I need to sell the stock coilpacks and IACV and stuff.

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Stock tb does 600whp. How much are you planning on never making again?

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The appeal of the GM throttle body isn't so much the diameter of the blade as it is the built-in IAC and shortness of the throttle body. The Toyota IACV's are relatively complex compared to idle valves from other companies, and since I'm deleting that stupid dumbass giant intake pipe in favor of Kyle's intake I won't have anywhere to pull fresh air from for it. The GM throttle is kind of a three or four birds with one stone situation, since it doesn't require an external pipe to feed it air, it doesn't have a giant secondary butterfly for traction control hanging off the front of it, it happens to be slightly larger, and it uses an IAC which is actually readily available new in the US.

 

edit: yeah, I know I can just not run an IACV, but it'd be nice to have one.

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2FOY8Vr.jpg

Torn on how to plug the coolant barb on the back of the head there. rubber caps are evil, a bolt in a piece of heater hose is janky, and a freeze plug is questionable. I'd like to drill and tap it for 1/2-14 NPT and use a nice hex plug, but I'm worried about shavings getting in the motor. I might just pack grease in there to catch the shavings and go for it. Beats taking the head off.

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