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useful zenki UCF20 links/forums ...do they even exist?

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Trying to find useful links for research. I'll keep looking, but if you know some shit please drop it here.

 

Things I'm looking into:

 

-5spd pedal install

 

-functional differences and swappability between zenki and kouki.

 

-LSD for zenki (8 3/4), 3 point-mounted diff

 

-good reads on turboing UZ (or V8s) ...single vs twin.

 

 

I've skimmed through alot when things are slow at work. The UZ world is so full of fail. If it isn't all out race, it's janky assed single turbo builds with custom log manifolds that sound like dog shit. And 5 spd swaps seem to be very impromptu and one off with no documentation of where electronics are moved to or whatever.

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Didn't think they had a 8-3/4" diff,

but the same as the SC300/400, which is larger than the X8 8", but smaller than the Mk-IV Supra 6-speed.

(the 220mm, often incorrectly refered to as an 8-3/4")

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From my understanding ls400s are 8 3/4" diffs but not much material on anyone trying to swap internals from a mk4 diff or sc300/400 diff. Some stuff on swapping in the whole mk4 housing and switching the ls400 rear cover onto it and just modding the subframe to accept the 2 supra front mounts. To confirm that I guess we could look up the diff code on that database thing for the size and gearing?

 

Lexus owners are basically a bunch of limp dick old farts or hipster 12 year olds that have a hard on for "stance". So you won't find any info on turboing from them other than the aforementioned gayness. Mostly the good turboed uz's are in other cars like supras and god forbid s13s.

 

Kind of a shit car to do a manual conversion to, seems like they packed every single control module and fuse where you would normally put a clutch pedal.

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Not according the the TRD fitment list.

They (early ls400) take the 208mm diff,

same as sc3/400, mk4 auto, and na,

not the big diff out of the mk4 tt 6-speed (often called the 8-3/4"),

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so all them carriers should interchange, I'll have to look out for a cheap sc300 lsd carrier/diff and give it a try

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there aren't cheap soarer/sc lsd's. there's the shitty expensive torsen, and the expensive trd, and whatever expensive aftermarket lsd you can find

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Turbo ucf is probably dumber than a turbo cressida.

 

I had a dream once. I was 6, and it was christmas. I unwrapped my presents and got a djetro powerfc for a 3UZ, a V161 with a UZ bellhousing and two twinscroll turbos. Then I woke up.

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I've been looking through shit. So far my brain and penis are getting along with this build.

 

With your help that's 2 things off the list: LSDs are all swappable (except 6spd) and turboing a UZ is like doing a 5MGTE. Seriously, it's just like that.

 

New list:

 

-Grafting 1.5JZ vvti shit to car electronics/dash. And for reals, trying to keep the AC this time around.

 

-Still need a good 5spd pedal install thread that just moves the under-dash electronics instead of striping them out cuz "race car".

 

-Still wish there was an option to a R154. Would really like it if someone started doing that BMW 3 series getrag/ZF adaptor plates under development. Easy as fuck to adapt shifter length, lighter, and can do w58/r154 torque respectively.

 

-need to research air suspension. SC roads and steep grades everywhere are murder on lowered cars. I don't like having to memorize and detour EVERYTHING on the road EVERYWHERE I go.

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Jz is almost bolt in to a ls, my jzx100 mounts are 1 inch from bolting in to a ucf10, probably sc300 brackets and mounts it would bolt in with some hammering on the firewall. Dunno about trans mount. I'm setting the engine back a little further though.

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Why do you need a how to on relocating shit? Just fucking do it. Also, if your gonna do a 1.5 vvti, you'll need a 96 and up ge or gte block for the proper oil feed shit, or you're gonna have to run some kind of oil distribution block for turbo/cam timing/pressure sender

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I've actually heard that jzs147 mounts work. You either need two of the same side or you flip one set around. At least that on a UCF10.

 

Anyway, fuck this thread. I just need to cull through hours of internet verifying all this here say shit.

 

Closing thoughts: 1UZ is back on the table. Tabling a 3.3L twin-screw build. I've seen enough pussy ass M90 and choking 2.3L builds to motivate me.

 

Also, something that really makes me go rape ape, THIS IS NOT A PROPER INTERCOOLER ANYMORE! WHY YOU STILL DO THIS??? twin-screws don't need this shit! You intercool it like a turbo setup

 

supercharger-intercooler-5111.jpg

 

end thread.

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First, bull shit on the twin screws not needing an intercooler.......

Sorry, but the fact is that when you compress air, the energy doesn't vanish, it is all still there, even if the method of compressing it is 100% efficient.

'X' amount of air at say 80 degrees contains a set amount of BTUs.

Take that amount of air, compress it to half it's original volume, and those BTUs are still there, so the air gets hotter.

Scientific fact.

 

Second, you just had to mention 'M90', didn't you.......

Still have this stuck away in case I ever get tired of making NA HP:

 

7MGZE1.jpg

 

7MGZE21.jpg

 

7MGZE3.jpg

 

DSC07108.jpg

 

7MGZE5.jpg

 

Probably a good thing that this engine was never out into my first X8, as I have learned a lot in the past 15 years about keeping the 7M in one piece.

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I didn't say no intercooler. I said no to old school roots blower water to air bullshit. Twin-screws can be intercooled like a turbo system, i.e. FMIC.

 

somewhat like this

 

http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/58-forced-induction-sponsored-kraftwerks-usa/18638-anybody-done-diy-fmic-supercharger.html

 

not like this

 

http://galleryplus.ebayimg.com/ws/web/281113626549_1_0_1/1000x1000.jpg

 

but for the 1UZ I was thinking something more like this.

 

photo.jpg

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Sorry, I misunderstood.

 

I had thought about doing the same thing on mine, as the water to air unit I built into my 7M manifold is a piping nightmare, with a pump, reservoir, another heat exchanger out in front to cool the water anyway.

That shit is OK for a drag car where you can dump the hot water, and replace with ice chilled water after every one, but really impractical for anything else.

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You just mentioned all the reasons that I don't like that kinda setup. There's not a whole lot on FMIC setups. There's this weird thing about push vs pull setups too. I don't see the benefit of a pull. Always thought keeping things in front of the MAF would be better.

 

Pull.

 

untitled-1.jpg

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Water to air is pretty effective if you got a good pump or pumps and a good heat exchanger but also a good sized intercooler, but that's hard to achieve with most sc setups with the plate style ic under it.

 

Maf can't read pressure so it throws off air metering in push setups.

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And recirculate valves (your 'DV purple square) on superchargers serve one purpose only, to cut off throttle noise.

That is why all OEM cars have them.

Does nothing to improve performance

With the throttle in front of the blower, the rotors are spinning in a vacuum.

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Daft's LSx electronics on a 1UZ prompted a question/idea. Adapting (not necessarily OEM) ZR51 or Cobra terminator electronics and engine management to a 1UZ with every to accommodate a 3.3L twinscrew.

 

Daft got NA 300hp out of theirs. I've seen video of a 3.3L twinscrew Terminator laying down 650hp/515ftlbs with a sexy power band to match.

 

 

 

I know that there's more to getting a 1UZ 5-600hp capable, but engine management seems to be a big part with a 1UZ.

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I can't convince myself any longer to try to appreciate V8 sound. The 1UZ is leaps and bounds more raspy and viscous than a LSX, but it still sounds like a broken beat. A half stepped piece of shit for an engine note. Even my girl chose the 1jz over a 1UZ or 2JZ.

 

I hate to post a 240 for a 1JZ acoustic, but it really does sound nice.

 

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Wish someone would step up to the plate, and do a GZ here.

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