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TheDonBastard

The (Amazing) x8 Amazing build thread Amazing

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So I cut towers and put 14ks on the from and slammed the gs. Love the way it looks but holy fuck do I now understand the pogo stick effect.... I'm like god speeds that came with 10k front these 14s bounce harder then a Brazilian prostitute. Looks killer though. DE93DEB1-F8E1-4510-BE33-642C119FEB9C_zps

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Making it into a honda, eh.....

How many fucking times do I have to type, if you go to stiffer springs, you also have to go to stiffer shocks ?

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haha gordo I know your the one who told me about the Pogo stick effect. I did this as an experiment more so then anything I'm raising back up and putting 10ks back on. Next summer I plan on doin some custom valved coils to like a 18/16 setup

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Thank you Gordo! I have 26/24k on my Q45. Rides nice but the shocks are made for them. T-Demand makes a good product.

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Under 25-30mph it can be rough on bumps or rough roads. Over that its not bad. At 70-90 on the interstate its like a caddy. But then again the shocks are valved to have those spring rates in them. I cant fit a cig pack between the frame and the road. But have no problem driving from Charleston S.C. to Atlanta. No scraping and pretty comfy to be honest.

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Holy fuck that's high you better have wheel lip smashed to fender style fitment for rates that high. I've seen fender to lip fitment on Aristos with 18k setups.

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This is static. Will make a 500mile round trip no problem. And these spring rates are actually considered pretty light for "VIP" style.

 

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Pete is da fucking man!

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So I radiused my metal fronts, to mock up flares. I honestly may end up doing these flares all around, I love the s9 fenders but I'm havin a hell of a time trying to fit them without doing straight oni status up front. Here's pics A697EE7C-2760-4CBD-B781-187ACB37BE5A_zps

40DA6DD5-1C18-4E8A-8930-1431ABE1EE38_zps

That's not how they will sit just mocked up, probably would start the flare at the trim line like the back ones. Any tips on molding plastic to metal? I want to mold front and rear too instead of leaving rivets

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Man, that looks good. Youre going to want to sand the area around where the fender meets the flare with 220-380 grit sand paper. Then use 3M adhesive tape to mount the flare, ounce its mounted rivit it in place. Ounce its mounted, use fiber glass filler to fill the large portions. Sand down the highs with 180 grit. Then I would use a flexable bondo that you use for bumpers, since I assume the flares will have a little bit of flex, and then sand that down with some 300+ grit till its smoth. Then id scuff the rest of the fender and hit the whole thing with a coat of glaze and sand that down with 600. Then shoot your primer and sand out the highs and work your way to 800 grit, then paint.

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Word right on, as long as I can do the main shaping and with glass I'm good. Thus what I was mainly wondering. Here's a pic I took awhile back, I never posted I don't think. This is the s9 fenders I won't cut those for the flares, although it would be dope I couldn't do it. 3F094684-AC7B-4E58-91E7-EAC6DB8F87E6_zps

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That would look so good though. But you could cut out those vents on your metal fender no problem. Especially since you physically have one to take measurements from.

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Those wheels are perfect! Might cop a set for ly x8 ute when i go back to 5 lug

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+2 for mold to s9 fenders.

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I'm going to devil's advocate here... would be silly to attach to the s9 fenders, as the s9 fenders are only wider in the flare portion and you would attach to the portion that isn't wide, it just makes no sense to do that and basically just for the vents... which you can recreate anyway on the metal...

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