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haymaker

progress at a glacial pace

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downpipe is coated


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made brackets for driftmotions shitty oil cooler kit


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made a thing for the map sensor


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did some more wiring too, but pictures of mediocre wiring is lame

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got a corn meter

 

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i am about 75 percent done with wiring and finally picked up a walbro 450 pump.

 

just gotta finish wiring, install pump and make a fuel line and it'll be ready to disappoint me. i did a bunch of side work for my engine tuner tony @ ums tuning) so the tuning is already paid for.

 

it might actually run this year

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What did the flex fuel sensor cost you?

 

Good choice on the Russell screw together adaptors. I had not found those yet when I bought the damn plastic clip GM (General Morons) style. They are going back to get the screw together type.

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I got the sensor from Summit, it was around $90. I think you can get them cheaper on Amazon or on eBay though but I don't know if they're real or Chinese.

The Screw type fittings also came from Summit, they were around $16 per piece.

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Just sayin.....

 

Just going to put this out here right now: if you sell, I want first dibs. Full price no questions asked.

Print this out and put it in your wallet.

 

Maybe make Brian put his foot in his mouth.

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sub harnesses made by me


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now i just have to mate all these (oil dummy light, coolant temp, starter, reverse switch, speedo etc)


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to these body plugs


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sub harnesses all installed (i still need to clean up the install)

i also final installed the intake manifold and finished the fuel lines and e85 sensor install.


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it is a stock x8 one,

 

i am pretty sure that the is300 brake booster fits in the cressida and then i can run a 300zx internally purpotioned master to clean up the lines a bit, but that is only when i decide to delete the abs system.

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Not gonna lie I was trippin on the master too, the booster looks like a x8 for sure but I've never seen a master like that haha

Looks like the 2nd line comes out the bottom on that funky extra thing

 

Nonetheless your stuff is always rad! :thumbsup:

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walbro 450 is in, now i just need to start testing all the circuits and have tony at ums tuning work his magic. it may actually run by the end of the year.

 

IMG_0566_zpsngyg8i0x.jpg

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holy fuck. it started on the very first try, no leaks. i feel like a wizard.

 

http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v48/robotsattack/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0872_zps9yz4oqwz.mp4

 

cranking sounded a bit funny so i did a compression test

 

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6 is a lil dodgy, but it could have carbon built up on it from when it ran like garbage 6 months ago.

 

now i just have to build a dump tube and an exhaust, then it'll be off to ums for the tune

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Carbon build up won't lower compression.........

But a tight valve will.

Have you checked valve clearances ?

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i was thinking something along the lines of a piece of carbon keeping the valve from fully seating.

i have not checked clearances, i guess i should do that.

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never tried that, usually if i am trying to unstick a ring or clean out the combustion chamber, i just run a qt of atf in with my oil change (exchange 1 qt of oil for the atf) and run the car for 25-50 miles and then change the oil again.

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I have always just run the engine, and slowley poured atf in the carbs until the engine died.

Wait 24 hours, pull the plugs, crank the engine for a half a minute to discharge the atf, cleaned the plugs, and fired it up.

The engine will discharge huge volumes of atf smoke, and black shit.

 

To do it on a EFI car, just use one of the vacuum ports in the manifold, and a small diameter hose to inject the stuff into the engine.

 

A less messy way is to get the engine hot, and use water. Keep opening the throttle more as it tries to die out.

No atf all over the engine bay, just a big cloud of black steem out the tail pipe.

 

Either way, just make sure their is nothing behind the car, as it will be coated black.

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I was kidding about the WD40. Sort of. It works if you can squirt a bit directly on whatever may be causing an issue. As Gordon said water in intake is a mess free way, sea foam is also okay. Atf is messy but. Whatever. Some sort of caustic detergent de gunk fluid usually work. Not too long ago I had to start an engine that had water sitting in cylinders for long enough to make a ridge in two ish walls, filled with wd40 and let sit, turned motor over by hand and shit was mint. I mean. As close to mint as you can imagine.

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If the engine has been sitting it isnt uncommon to have some rust on an open exhaust valve which will cause a little bit of compression drop. I usually wait a little bit before compression testing though.

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made some xmas presents for the heap.

 

radiator overflow

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and a dumptube

 

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i need to have everything welded by john now.

 

 

 

i think i am just going to buy the cx racing cressida fart can cat back and make an intermediate pipe to connect it to the downpipe. feelin lazy.

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