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4DRSPRA

a340 to r154 jzx7 no hoist swap

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ok first off let me start with fuck you all for your help.

 

ONE. source your parts

 

brake and clutch assy from mkII-mkIII supra

R series transmission from same supra

starter while you are there or buy one

axel from same car (you will need the yoke and front half)

R154 to jz bellhousing

R154 flywheel

clutch

pressure plate

shifter and housing

clutch master and slave

braided clutch line

 

 

TWO. prep the car

 

get the bitch up in the air, the higher the better. safely.

 

under car

drop your axle and exhaust

remove the starter

drain the fluid

disconnect all the sensors

disconnect speedo cable

remove trans cooler lines

break free the bell housing bolts ..... stop

 

in car

remove lower dash and center console

remove brake, swap in MKII assy. (lever only if you have MKIII brake assymbly you will swap levers and re-tac weld the brake light switch on MKIII brake lever)

install clutch pedal assembly (drilling required, be easy don't treat the firewall like your GF)

wire up a switch for the neutral safety to be able to start the car http://clubaristo.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11129&stc=1&d=1305750152 wire 5 and 6 together via clutch or switch you can solder them together but them the car will always assume it is in neutral.

 

 

THREE. SWAP!

get under the car and finish removing all the bolts around the bell house. some are easier to get to than other and you will need a very long extension for the top two bolts, seemed that it was easiest to go at it from the back of the transmission and follow along the top (four hand job) once those are off and you have unbolted the cross member place a jack under and raise it a bit. remove the bolts that hold the torque converter on to the flex plate. air tools help here or get inventive with hand tools. disconnect and throw in the garbage. grab your shiny new one or your old one with shiny new paint and slide it in there. install is pretty much reverse of removal except that you will bolt the pressure plate onto the flywheel after you put it to the engine. its easier if you start the bolts for the bell house and then bolt the flywheel to the pressure plate, then finish bolting the bell housing down and then the cross member, i had to re adjust the engine position to line up the bolt holes for the trans mount. some hammering done and it fits up in there like a glove.

finish bolting on the slave and run the line to the master, don't forget to bleed the system and adjust the pedal engagement. fill it with your gear oil of choice seems that MT90 redline is a favorite. i went with le royal purple because i'm a fag.

 

 

 

QUESTIONS

 

what about all the plugs that are left over?

first off you will take the shift selector and do what you will with the wires for the neutral safety to start the car. then depending on your transmission you might have a reverse light switch plug, if you do then wire that shit up, if not then get inventive on how to figure out what wires are for the reverse lights. i recommend you check this before you remove the battery and start tearing apart the transmission. after that just wrap up all the

remaining plugs and then just tuck them away nicely and make sure they wont rattle free and fall in the way of any moving parts.

 

what about the drive shaft?

take the front half of the drive shaft from the supra you pilfered parts from and then connect it to the back half of you stock cressida axle. you will need to use the stock cressida center support as the bolt holes don't match for the supras. or fork over for a one piece.

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Fucking unbelievable.............

 

Why did you post it 3 times ?

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seriously i have no idea how that happened. i tried to upload pictures and then it was all down hill from there. i am tired now and will expand on this more tomorrow.

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Jason, why did you leave one ?

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I swear, it's your silly avatar.

 

Put up an image of Steve McQueen, John Wayne, or Dilbert, and your life will change around.

 

Edit......

 

LoL ! Not sure who that is, but it's much better than your old avatar.

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yes you will need a jz flywheel. the 7m is different bolt pattern, however the stock PP and clutch will work.

 

hind sight replace the input shaft bearing for piece of mind, i have a lightened flywheel and i can't tell if my input shaft bearing is bad or if i am getting carry over noise into the gear box from the engine.

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Did you ever consider to have your chinese flywheel, and pressure plate ballanced?

(of course not, sorry, I forgot who I was addressing)

 

I even have the good stuff checked, and any time a pressure plate is changed, I have it rechecked.

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well i got the FW from DM and my understanding was that it was already balanced. and no i didn't think about balancing the PP because i chose to use the stock one. the reason i think it is carry over noise is because if i change the load on the front of the crank (say by turning on the AC) the noise get a little louder.

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May not be your problem, but.........

 

Always check ballance on that shit, especially the crap from china (DM), and stock shit.

The stock was mass produced, as cheap as they can get away with, and bolted to an extremely heavy flywheel.

The chinese sit is, well, just that, shit.......

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but are not the JZ motors externally balanced anyways, so if the weight on the front of the crank is not the same as the rear of the crank .... i am going to order a light weight underdrive pully kit and hope that it makes it go away. its not very loud just at idle with the clutch engaged and out of gear.

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I see a fucked crank in your future........

 

First, it doesn't fucking matter if the god damn engine is internally, or externally ballanced, if the flywheel.clutch assembly is out of ballance, it will shake, and cause stress on the crank rear bearing, and flywheel bolts.

 

2nd, an inline-6 is the last engine you would ever want to put a light weight fucking front pulley on.

Guess you have never heard of torsional vibration.......

The only thing more prone to crank failure due to not having a front dampener on it would be an inline-8.

 

Stop being a total retard, and if you absolutely have to change out the front pulley, go to an aftermarket dampener, like ATI, or anyone else that makes a high performance dampener for the JZ.

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what are you using for a clutch, it kinda sounds like you're talking about clutch chatter, my clutch had pretty bad chatter so year. I also have the dm crank pulley and light flywheel, and no problems.

 

if you want longevity out of your engine use a dampened pulley, reason i dont worry about it is I figure I will probably kill it before harmonics have any hope of eating away at internals. There is a lot worse engines out there for vibrations though.

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Yeah, the 7M at 8500...........

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or any 4cyl or v8

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I have a sprung 6 puck clutch disc on it and I kinda thought it might be chatter but I have never heard clutch chatter before so I don't have anything to compare it to.

 

I do get the lingo backwards for axle and drive shaft sometimes, however I do know the difference.

 

I also thought that the inline motors where some of the best balances motors because they are inline.

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They are the best because there is a main bearing between every cylinder, and can take more boost than something where the rods are paired up, like a V6 or V8.

But you have to consider torsional vibrations, or they will bite you in the ass.

A 4-banger can vibrate all it want, but because the crank is so short, it's hard to hurt one.

 

Oh, and the run of the mill crank dampener, like my TCI unit are only rated to 450-ish HP, any more, and you have to go to one of their larger units.

HKS sells a big TCI unit in a kit just for high power builds.

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I am actually shooting for no more than 400hp. Thanks for the info though, I will have to look into this dampener thing more.

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Yo. While you're throwing out that A340...lemme get the valve body. For serious. I think (hope) I can throw it into my 4runner.

 

Unless Gordo has one for a 98 4runner a340 4wd...

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