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tuner4life

Tuner4life's 1991 Cressida Drift Build

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Fuck, clean some of the leaves out, take another picture, and post it up in FaceBook as a real build.

That's funny !

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Could you take a close up picture of that Lexus poer brake master cylinder assembly, PLEASE !!

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Yeah, I'll get a pic tonight. I think it's junk though. The car had absolutely no brakes when I picked it up but no leaks that I could find.

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thats fucking comedy gold man. i love it when guys like you have weird shit hauled off to the junkyard for unsuspecting people to stumble across.

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You could grab that throttle cable out of the LS and use it for your swap. Been a while but I think the cressida cable istoo long. If you were gonna keep the auto, you'd need to grab taht kick down switch under the accelerator pedal.

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if youre in a generous mood, you could give me random shit i'll need to put a uz into my x3.

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You could grab that throttle cable out of the LS and use it for your swap. Been a while but I think the cressida cable istoo long. If you were gonna keep the auto, you'd need to grab taht kick down switch under the accelerator pedal.

 

Good call, thanks for this, My Cressida cable is obviously too short.

 

if youre in a generous mood, you could give me random shit i'll need to put a uz into my x3.

 

Make me a list, If I'm not using it it'll be cheap.

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Went to grab that throttle cable last night... It was damaged too bad to use.. :(

 

 

Another potentially stupid question.. I'm pulling the diff out tonight to have it welded. While It's out, there is no better time to work on the subframe. Besides doing subframe bushings and diff bushings, is there any need to brace the subframe for drifting using an essentially stock 1uzfe? I'm thinking about just getting the weld in brace from XM, but I'm not really sure if that will make a difference at my fairly low power levels. I understand that if I ever swap to a 1j I would need to fully brace it, but would it be ok for now?

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If you're going to be constantly abusing it, might as well.

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look at the thread about subframe reinforcement, shows you where to put your gussets and shit.

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I've been through that thread, just wasn't sure if it would be worth it for a car that isn't making huge power... Screw it, I'll have it out anyways, why not..

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Differential is on the floor... It's getting welded next week.

 

 

2013-09-18221531_zps76ec2331.jpg

 

 

Well so much for getting the car running and driving then dealing with the chassis... I started unbolting the suspension arms from the rear subframe so I can take it out to brace it and install bushings, and almost every arm back there is rusty/broken/bad bushings. So I'll be replacing all of that crap when i reassemble everything.

 

Also found out that every caliper on the car is not releasing completely, and the E-brake shoe setups basically exploded when I took the rotors off. I may just go right to a dual caliper hydro instead of screwing with the cable brakes. Yay money pit..

 

So after cleaning the garage from the evenings festivities, I started taking crappy pictures.. Here you go...

 

 

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It's coming along slowly...

 

I wont have a chance to mess with it again until next week.

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I will be selling my 296mm Wilwood/GT-R big brake set that I have been running shortly, since I am going larger yet.

Make you a deal, since they are used.

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Haha Gordo, if it costs more than stock replacements, it's not going to happen any time soon.

 

I have priorities, stopping is (at least at this point) not one of them. lol

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Well, used GT-R calipers go for $200+ on eRip,

these were rebuilt and refinished, and have EBC Red Stuff pads, not 4000 miles ago.

Rebuild kits - $50

Pads - $75

The hats are $150 a pair, new, and the rotors are $100/pair new.

The rotors have developed a light layer of rust from setting.

 

These don't require spacers, and bolt directly to the original mounting points.

 

How does $300 to your door suit you ?

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Might want to keep the injectors off that 7m they are a perfect fit to a 1uz and are bigger, For if you ever want to turbo or supercharge it.

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Thanks^

 

 

Last night I got the subframe out.. Now I have to work on getting the inboard bolts out of the lower arms.. Ugh. Impacts, prybars, leverage, pb blaster, a mini torch, and a hammer were all useless. Looks like I'm probably going to have to cut them out, yay.

 

 

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Crappy pics are crappy.. Not sure what happened.

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Arg........

 

I hate northern cars..........

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Alright, I spent most of sunday fighting with the frickin subframe! With the assistance of a grinder, bfh, and fire, I managed to get the arms off. I only did minimal damage to the mounting brackets. Freakin yay. I am convinced that the subframe bushings and diff mount bushings are one piece with the subframe. No combination of hammers, prybars, screw presses, and fire seemed fo have any effect on them besides mangling them beyond recognition. Still wouldn't come loose though. They are currently soaking in PB blaster on a hope and prayer that that will make a difference

 

I'll take another stab at the bushings later this week, but Sunday night I needed to do something different before I did domething stupid, so I cleaned half of the engine bay. (no, it's not staying this horrendous color).

 

2013-10-06173822_zps1687ea43.jpg

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Fuck you the burgundy is legit!

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Your stock bushings have become one with the subframe, eh ?

I'd say torch them.

If I remember correctly, the subfram to chassis ones are rubber on the OD, and probably come loose is said rubber is toast.

The diff bushings have a steel sleeve on the OD, so if you barbecue them, you will be left with the outer steel part still stuck in the subframe, that you will have to peel out.

 

Fuck, I don't understand how you people can even work on these things, every time I turn around I'm machining a new piece to press something apart on them.

 

Oh, and I would shoot myself before I drove a car that was burgandy, one the inside, or the outside.

I think the revile attitude comes from my childhood, when I was forced to ride in a fucking ford of that color.

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