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tuner4life

Tuner4life's 1991 Cressida Drift Build

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On your trailing arms,

The supra spherical bushings that can be used in the upright (I'm guessing you're calling the knuckles),

also fit in the two trailing arm positions, both in the arm in the front, and in the upright on the rear.

They won't be adjustable, but will eliminate all rubbery joints there.

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Thanks Gordo. Yeah, I meant the upright. I've already got the Xcessive stuff in all of those other positions. I was just missing the rear position on the trailing arm which I found out at the end of last season was horribly worn, to the point where it was causing wheel hop. Good to know that it fits though if/when I need to mess with it again

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IMG_20160331_210547974_zpskpcg98hx.jpg

 

 

Worked on the Cressida last night. Got the passenger side upright apart, replaced the wheel bearing, removed the remaining pieces of the stock e-brake. Replaced the trailing arm bushing. Also my massive sway bar came in, It's a Godspeed bar from the front of an FC RX7.. It may be overkill, but it may not. We'll see, I like the idea of being able to throw bigger/easier angle. The 1UZ doesn't have a ton of power and tends to track up too easily. I need to make some beefy mount brackets for it this weekend.

 

Interesting to note: When installing the mk3 Supra trailing arm bushings in the bottom of the X8 upright, I did not need Gordo's sleeves at all. I pressed the old ones out, and the new ones went right in. No sleeve needed. Not sure if they changed the design for 1991 to match the Supra. This car is a later 1991 so maybe the newer mx83s are different. Who knows. I had the new bushing in the freezer and heated the upright with a torch for a few minutes. That made it easy to push the bushings in nearly by hand. Just took some very light tapping to position it correctly.. Once everything became room temperature again it was locked tightly in place.

 

I should have the new rear wheel seals by this weekend. Tonight I'll tear the other side down. Hoping to have this all done by the end of the weekend. I'm not holding my breath.

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i have an '89 but the spare rear end i got is (supposedly) from a '91. maybe i'll get gordo's sleeves and try to confirm.

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Hm, very interesting.......

 

Never had a problem with the '91, only my '90.

Chris, if you can just get the diameter of the '91.

 

Also Hmmm.....

Toydiy shows the same p/n for all X8s...

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I'll look today. Have my 89 and your 91 roll cage cars parts at the same place. I'm too lazy to remember my photofag account, so you'll get numbers

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I got the rear suspension back together and the e-brake bled over the weekend. Feels like I worked a lot harder than the progress I made...

 

The only thing that I am still working on is the mounting for the sway bar. The FC bar will need to sit a little bit further back then the stock mx83 bar does. Also it became obvious that the factory sway bar mounting points on the cressida were not going to put up with the stress of a sway bar that actually puts up a fight. So I ended up spending most of Sunday fabricating new mounting points for the sway bar.

 

Using 10 ga steel, I first made the horizontal plate in a similar shape as the original. Being that this was flat plate steel, it did not have the "bump" that the original piece did to center in the subframe mount. So I made it work using cupped shock mount washers and fender washers to get the spacing right. I forgot to take a picture of that, might later if I'm not being lazy. Nuts are welded to the backside of this plate for ease of assembly. The vertical side plates are as simple as tracing the shape onto cardboard, cutting the metal out and drilling holes. They are red because that's what I had left over in the shop and I didn't feel like going in the house to find black.. And because racecar.

 

 

Still can't believe the uselessness of the stock bar.. Here's a comparison of the stock bar vs. the Godspeed FC Rx7 front bar.

 

IMG_20160403_145933986_zpszxp24ipp.jpg

 

 

I Still need to make the side plate for the drivers side put Here is the completed bracketry for the passenger side.. The mounting for the sway bar is roughly 1.75" further back than the oem bar.. That should me make it line up with the links a little better.

 

IMG_20160403_220250818_zpszqptpm0d.jpg

IMG_20160403_220239361_zps3gkkuxcw.jpg

 

 

Have to work 12hr days today and tomorrow. Hoping to have this done and driving again on Wed evening.

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Nice!

Are you going to offer a tracing of that side plate ?

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I suppose I can.. It's not pretty though, and the side plate will not match up to the original horizontal in any way. Height, bolt spacing, etc.. Are all different. I just traced it out on a piece of cardboard and went to town with a cut off wheel. Same with the horizontal plate, even made the "precision" bend in a vice with a torch and a hammer lol

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even made the "precision" bend in a vice with a torch and a hammer lol

 

Best way I've found to do bends, without having a real powered sheetmetal break in my garage........

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Well shit.. If it does, I'll probably replace it with a stock FC bar. I only got the godspeed because I was able to snag if for a few bucks more than a stock FC bar. It may very well be overkill anyways.. Thanks for the heads up though.

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Ok, so measure twice, cut once... Or in my case, measure once, hold the part up and see if it looks close, call it good. The next day realize that you have no clue what you were doing the day before...

 

The horizontal sway bar mounts that I made previously moved the mounting points for the sway bar back an inch-ish. It all seemed good when I measured the other day.. Evidently as of yesterday things changed. I needed to move the mounts back another 1.5"! Yeah, I don't know either.. Anyways, I made extended plates out of the same material and welded them to the existing brackets, drilled holes, welded backer nuts. etc.. Ran out of red paint so gray engine enamel it is now.. I need to work on the sway bar link situation. I found some nice Moog links that work, but they are kind of thick so they end up being on a bit of an angle and I'm worried that over time it will pop them out of the socket due to the force not being perfectly straight.. I think a set of links like the heim ones that came from Xcessive front arm kit would work because they are smaller.. I'll work on that later.

 

IMG_20160406_232626661_zpsw8l8xibz.jpg

IMG_20160406_232640716_zpswptlcobd.jpg

IMG_20160406_232653118_zpsf6piegqr.jpg

 

 

Finally got done around midnight and took it out for a drive.. It was pouring rain so not a very good test, but it did feel much more consistent in drift.. Also no more wheel hop. So that's a win. I need to take another look at the e-brake setup as well. The calipers that are recommended by xcessive do seem to work alright, but it takes a lot more handle force to make it happen than I would like. I need to research what size master cyl came on my cheap ebay handle. Hoping that I can just change the bore size and make it easier to lock the rear wheels.. That's something I can work on later though.

 

 

The last thing I messed with and most fascinating to me.. The car has had a CEL on since day one. This was easily explained by the deleted EGR, and non existent rear o2 sensors.. I have slowly been chipping away at the piddly issues causing lights like getting the right resistor for the EGR block, etc.. I checked the codes again last night.. The only codes were for both defective upstream o2 sensors (code 21 and 28), a rich code (code 26), and a lean code (code 25).. I'm going to replace the front 02 sensors tonight in hopes that it may cure all of those codes (and might get a little horsepower back). I'm just weirded out by the fact that it is not throwing codes for the rear o2 sensors which aren't even there..

 

Gotta keep chipping away at this stuff.. First event this year is April 16.

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McMaster-Carr is a good source of Heims (industry calls the 'rod ends'), as is Speedway Motors.

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Fixing code 21 and 28 is going to make the engine feel slower, don't actually know about the actual HP loss or gain because I dynoed after fixing the codes. Could probably be that I got used to feel the UZ slow anyways. I also deleted EGR and had no secondary o2s and got no codes after changing the main o2s. Mine was from a 92 LS400 though.

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Slower? I would have thought that the ecu being able to tell what the engine is doing via the 02 sensors would make it better? We'll see I guess. It's all temporary anyways. My swap is from a 1990 LS

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Alright.. Scrambling to get things done before the festivities this weekend. O2 sensors are in, engine/trans/diff fluids are changed, shifter is shortened/modified...

 

Currently working on re-positioning the e-brake handle to a more ergonomic position. I had it too far back and too far away before. Also waiting on 5/8 bore master cylinder for it to show up on Wednesday. I had a 0.7" bore on it originally and it required a lot of force to lock.. The new one is a Wilwood with an integrated reservoir so I should have a bit more room to mount it closer to the seat than with the big screw on reservoir that's on there now

 

And my biggest issue currently is the back bumper lol.. The I realized the other day that there are no tie down hooks in the rear to strap it to the trailer.. I figured, no big deal. I'll just pull the bumper and weld some loops to it.. Well when I pulled the bumper I found this:

 

 

IMG_20160411_215240997_zpsdkrkhlki.jpg

 

 

I'm honestly suprised that it hasn't fallen off yet. There is a large portion of the bumper metal that is just gone.. What is even more surprising is how much it still weighs even considering how much is gone.. So I'm going to try to tackle a project that I have been thinking about for a while.. I'm going to try to make a bash bar. Never fabricated something that large before, just brackets and other small bs. I'm picking up some tubing tonight.. I'm not sure how it's going to turn out.. Thinking something similar to this bar that I found after a quick google search...

 

 

IMG_5344.jpg?1329432600242666273

 

 

...Only I don't have a proper bender or decent fab skills, so it will probably look much worse lol. Just needs to have minimal impact support, a place to mount tie down straps, a jack point, and hide mostly behind the bumper cover..

 

 

Luckily the pieces of the bumper came apart reasonably easily..

 

 

IMG_20160411_220321343_zpsyzilngzj.jpg

 

 

I'm going to clean up/reuse the mounting brackets and build from there.. They are surprisingly intact.

 

Any recommendation on tubing size? I'm thinking 1.5" DOM?

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Looks pretty good Rick. Although the bar that curbs up looks like it'd fold in on impact.

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Probably would fold on impact, but that might not be a bad thing. Something has to give in an impact. Build the bar to crush itself and not the chassis. Thin wall tubing and a crush section would be helpful.

 

Looks like the Mark2s came with tow hook off underside "frame rail" rather than off the bumper beam itself. Would hope same spot on Cressida is able to handle tow hook as well. If you were just looking for rear strap down point I would run that.

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I made significant progress last night. It's definitely not the prettiest thing but it should get the job done. The only thing I wish I could do differently is make the ends of the bar wrap towards the front.. However I don't have a proper pipe bender so it's as good as it gets. Ironically I only took rough measurements, cut the pieces and tacked it together. I figured if it was remotely close to the correct position, I could "tweak" the fitment before finishing the welding. As it turned out, the bumper cover sits perfectly on the bar. I'm just going to add a few attachment points to give the cover some rigidity. Unfortunately I think this piece is going to weigh about the same as the stock crash bar, but I feel better about it not falling off due to rust now.

 

Tonight I just need to add the attachment points for the bumper cover, add a lower cross bar to serve as a jack point, add a couple of gussets, and paint it. Also mounting the tires for the events this weekend and need to replace the e-brake master cyl and mount the handle. Oh, and change the oil in the van, and pack, and sleep, and....

 

Anyways. pictures.

 

 

IMG_20160412_232138367_zpspbbqk5mv.jpg

IMG_20160412_232055863_zpsqmnopl2n.jpg

IMG_20160412_224821823_zpsxrfrhc2o.jpg

IMG_20160412_224814140_zpsjsch4eqx.jpg

IMG_20160412_224756914_zpsf3pmosmd.jpg

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why is it always the driver side tail light wing that goes missing?

 

Pretty nice bar! Once you get a bender that one will serve as great template. Definitely go thinner tubing if you ever remake it will help drop weight

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Right? I have 3 sets of taillights and 3 passenger side wing/top/cover pieces.. No driver sides.

 

Thanks, I do wish I would have gone with a little bit lighter/thinner/smaller bar, but the price was right on this piece of "scrap" that the local machine shop had. Like you said, If I tear it up I'll improve the next one.

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Finished the bash bar last night.. It weighs the same as the stock bumper (minus missing rusted sections). But it shouldn't fall off, it has a jack point, and has a place to hook straps to when on the trailer. If I could do it again, I would use smaller/thinner tubing for weight purposes, but I'm happy with it for now for being the first "big" thing I've fabricated besides exhaust pipes. Welds look like shit in the pictures, but they are solid as hell and have good penetration. I'm just too lazy to grind them all down.

 

 

IMG_20160414_240715092_zpsdjr6asni.jpg

IMG_20160414_240724950_zps5tt8pflt.jpg

IMG_20160414_240732205_zpszywbhxff.jpg

 

 

The best part is that the stock pumper cover fits nearly perfect over the bash bar. The only noticeable change are the 3 visible nuts on the top of the bumper cover. There are also a handfull of zipties on the bottom just to keep the bottom edge of the cover from bouncing around. It still uses the "snap in" side attachment points.

 

IMG_20160414_241533292_zpshwwmnjzm.jpg

IMG_20160414_241542595_zpslkopgkc3.jpg

IMG_20160414_241602536_zpsgg7sw7uy.jpg

 

 

I should have the new e-brake master cyl tonight, and hopefully the tire situation figured out as well..

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