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tuner4life

Tuner4life's 1991 Cressida Drift Build

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Taking the mud flaps off has always been the first thing ive done to my cressidas.

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Mud flaps add that 'this is nothing but an old luxury car' look.

Makes it easier to get a muskrat, or hamster to race........

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i was thinking they'd look OK once lifted back up on stock suspension and some meaty gravel tires for rallycross.

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I'd love to have one of the X9 4WD cars, set up for rallycross........

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Car is still dirty, misfiring, and full of old tires from the last event.. Haven't even messed with it, but here is a prego belly shot per Gordo's request.

 

 

IMG_20150608_204020416_HDR_zpsy7b1ckye.j

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Thanks!

 

 

Side note for documentation sake... 1.5 seasons on the same plugs running with a CEL for no rear o2 sensors and deleted EGR has resulted in a lightly rich condition and finally fouled the plugs. New plugs fixed the misfire and it runs good again..

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You can use resistors for the egr shit. Guessing you removed the wiring for the rear o2's? If not just plug some into the piping and you should have no CEL for that crap. My sc400 had both cats on the manifolds gutted and threw no codes for over a year of driving daily. Hell, it even passed the tail pipe sniffer with mufflers only and 180k on it.

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I've got the supposedly correct resistor in place for the EGR, but for some reason it's still throwing the code for it. I don't remember right off what resistor was needed though.. Might double check that later..

 

As for the rear o2 sensors, I never removed the wiring, but I don't remember seeing it when I put the wiring all together.. I just figured that without the cats, it would be pointless to run them anyways, if they will actually work on straight pipes, I may look into adding them back in. Thanks for that!

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The rear O2 sensor wiring is part of the chassis harness. It's patched into one of the body plugs from the engine harness. You will have to splice in an extension to rear O2 sensors.

Remember, the rear O2 sensor harness goes through the floorboard on the LS400.

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I remember that it went through the floorboard from when I pulled it out.. It was kind of a blur though. Might actually be easier to run it a similar way on the Cressida.

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Did a local car show over the weekend. The first time since it's been painted that it's been clean, and buffed/polished the paint.

 

 

IMG_20150702_175213829_HDR_zpsk6erdcvw.j

 

 

Other things to note:

 

-Mishimoto radiator caps are junk. Replaced that with a new stock one and cured the small coolant leak from the cap.

-One of the calipers on the left rear wheel is sticking a bit.. Parts on order..

-I need to replace the rear arm heim joints really bad!!

 

 

 

I also cleaned up the barn over the weekend so now I can get most of the cars inside. The Cressida and the SC are having a stare down.

 

IMG_20150706_170016880_zpszy87sut6.jpg

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I didn't know you had an sc. I'm pretty sure we have a mutual acquaintance. You know Nicholas down here in austin? Indiana native with a couple sc's, solid dude

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Haha! I certainly do know him. Has a 2GS now too I think. Cool guy, Met him when I bought my RSP SC because it was super rare then he ended up having 2 of them lol.

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-I need to replace the rear arm heim joints really bad!!

 

 

Are you speaking about the original Toyota ones that are pressed into the upright at the bottom, that the LCA attach to?

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^ if it's the ones he's talking about, get with him, Gordon has the magic.

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Gordo, I potentially need those too, you have? The worst ones are the inboard joints on my Xcessive rear control arms though.

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Yeah those heims fucking suck. I had to warranty one right out of the box, held my install up. How long have yours been in use? And is it only track use?

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I've had mine on since the beginning of last year. Probably 8 or so drift days, and a few thousand miles of street driving (some of that in the rain). I fully expect to have to replace them as a maintenance item, but they have been making noise since the end of last season, which I thought was very premature.. They are now to the point where they are visibly loose when you pull on them.

 

I was considering trying some upgraded joints, but then people say that they will still only last a year or 2.. So It seems pointless to spend more than twice the money for similar lifespan..

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The battle version arms inboard lca side has a poly bushing instead. I was thinking that would b a better idea.

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Jason, the outer lowers can be replaced with the one from the Mk3 Supra, p/n 42210-14010,

and a reducing sleeve that I sell (or tried to sell, think in 10 years only 10 pair went out the door).

But I still have material left to make them, and I think they are in my build thread somewhere.

The Supra ones go as low as $30 each.

I get $35 shipped for the sleeves.

 

$T2eC16h,!)4FIZyEZ1LWBSPc+GBttw~~60_57.J

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Back to the EGR delete thing... I have scoured the internet as much as possible and the consensus is that the resistor needed is a "10k ohm - 1/2 watt" resistor. Which I have. I can't however figure out which plug it is supposed to go in. There are 2...

 

Can't find the info anywhere, hoping someone has crossed this bridge before.. Mark maybe?

 

I've tried it in each plug and it still throws the CEL for the EGR nomatter where the resistor it at.. What am I missing?

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It goes in the smaller of the 2. It went to the egr temp sensor on the driver side of the intake right in the middle. I did it on mine months ago with no problems

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Thanks! I had previously tried it in both plugs, but it eventually landed in the wrong one.. It's moved now and I've made sure that it had a good connection... Here's to hoping the CEL for that stays away..

 

Next project is to install this pile of rear brakes and joints that's sitting on my kitchen table, and go to the junkyard and snag the rear 02 wiring.

 

Getting stoked.. Should feel like I have a ton more power when it is actually running right and the rear brakes aren't sticking.

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