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warped83

Detroit TrueTrac for G series.

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They will not retain the output shafts on an IRS rear.

This is because they arre meant for solid axle trucks, that the axles is retained by the outer bearings.

You will could to take it apart, and machine snap-ring retension groves into the 2 inner main gears.

 

Or........

Just buy a genuine T2 Torsen from me :)

May cost a little more, but you won't have your halfshafts popping out all the time.

 

Or.......

Buy the true track, send it to me, and I will machine it for you,

but that will end up costing more.

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true trac is for fags. Buy a detroit locker and have gordon modify that

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He would be better off doing what ever, down there in New Zealand.

I forgot he wasn't a 'mericon'.

 

The T2 helicals come out of the JZX100 Tourer-V, and the IS300, if they get either of those down under.

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Why would you put a helical differential into a Cressida in the first place? You can buy kits to add tension to the clutch packs on the stock diff, or just weld it and call it a day.

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I have an OEM LSD with all the spacers, and booster springs.

The holding torque was brought up from Toyota's anemic 45 ft/lbs, to a wopping 95 ft/lbs.

And it is a snapping, jerky POS to drive on the street everyday, even with more 'anti-chatter' additive put in, that probably lowered the torque holding figure.

 

I love my T2, but I don't have the car just for drifting, I like to do fast road work, perferably on twisty roads.

There is nothing better than a helical for that.

And besides, I can drift the car just as good as any of the fanboy drifters here in San Antonio.

Some have said better.......

Now I know, San Antonio is probably the butt crack of the drifting world, so I make no claims of it being the best drift diff.

But it was more controlable than when I had the fucking jacked up OEM LSD in the car.

All I use it for lately is the drag strip, and the Texas Mile, just because I wanted a rear end set-up with my 5.29 gear set due to the car having an automatic at that point.

If someone wants the chattering wonder-diff, it's for sale.

If I ever go to another T56, where I need the 5.29 gear set, it will have a helical again.

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What gears in the chattering wonder diff?

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5.29s, but only because I haven't torn it down yet.

Absolutely useless ratio, unless your drag racing with an auto,

or are putting a T56, with those stupid high 5th & 6th gears into your car.

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Aren't the TrueTrac and Detroit Locker one in the same kyle?

Thanks Gordo, I'm currently running the G305 rear center also ramped up AND with increased pre load but its just crude. Any other aspects besides the machining of the side gears? Off set for the crown etc because like you and the seller i purchased the diff from mentioned its for a Toyota 8 inch rear but includes the G series from 86 to 95. Thanks again

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Just dupicate the groves in the stock diff, as far as depth into splines, distance from the outer edge, and contour.

They are hard shit, and may need to be ground in using a spindle grinder.

 

Oh, and no diff is a 100% drop-in.

You must always check gear lash, and reshim due to no 2 diffs being exactly the same, and the small tolerances of both bearing preload, and gear lash.

Just follow the set-up factory procedure to the letter, and you will be fine.

(kind of like building a 7M)

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Just follow the set-up factory procedure to the letter, and you will be fine.

(kind of like building a 7M)

 

 

Just dont forget to torque the bolts right?

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And don't forget to pray a lot............

Without having a full set of shims on hand, it's a pain, due to having to wait to pick up more shims from the dealer when the one's you thought you needed are not right.

(this is why I have a shit load of shims here)

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Hey Gordo, was wondering if you could shed some light on this. I have a MA70 (G305) center swapped into a G312 cressida diff. I recently replaced my diff oil to the redline shockproof blue stuff. Recently the cars started snapping/Jerking on tight corners and even does it on take off be it soft medium or balls to the wall. Backlash or just the LSD center?. I've not been able to get the car on a hoist due to busy work. any insight as always is appreciated.

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Gear lash won't cuase the snapping & popping, that is due to the oil not having enough anti-chatter aditive in it.

Also, the more rubber you still have in the suspension, the more it will pop because the diff & suspension is allowed to wind up before you reach the break away torque of the LSD.

 

Go pick up a bottle of the anti-chatter LSD moose milk, all auto parts stores have it, and add away.

Moose milk = a fix in a can, an old southern Canada (Wisconsin) gear head term.

Just keep adding it until the chattering gets to a livable level

That popping is hard on CV joints, as it is hammering them.

 

If you were ever thinking about solid diff mounts, and other suspension piviot points that have rubber in them, now is the time to do it.

Look to Andrew C down there for solid diff mounts http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solid-Diff-Bush-Set-for-Toyota-Cressida-MX83-JZX81-GX81-Cresta-Chaser-Mark-II-/300928970215?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4610c3ade7#ht_1672wt_722

 

Just like me, he can probably do better on the price through a direct purchase.

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I have a truetrac F-code. I don't love how it feels, but it's the toughest F-code LSD (of one sort or another) available for cheap money. I don't drift, so that's not an issue, but if you do plan to slide your car and want something predictable, a helical is not what you want.

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My helical is more predictable than the clutch style I had in the car.

Maybe it has something to do with tire quality, and sway bar & spring choice.

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I can vouch for my KAAZ being 8 times more predicatable than my OEM 1.5 way lsd, kaaz hasnt tried to kill me yet, celica-supra diff on the other hand...

Gordo, is too old to influence, helical for life.

 

Im just gonna stick to what all the cool guys (you know, cool guy pro drifters yes you mark (no offence gordo <3)) run and last I checked nobody was running helical

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Not interested in the drift fanboifaggotry as kyle puts it. Just after something more refined albeit affordable than the current piece of shit i have at the back. Thanks Gordo, the chattering doesn't bother me and its not excessive just wanted to be sure i didn't fuck up the carrier preload while assembling.

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Well the bearing preload, and gear lash has to do with you properly shimming the thing.

Follow the TRSM to the letter, and you will be OK.

I just did an LSD instal for an X8 guy today. Went real quick, just had to change shims once.

But I did have the shims in stock, and I do have a dial indicator to check the gear lash with.

If you don't, pay someone who does.

A $75 bill for setting up a diff is a lot better than replacing the gears after they fail.

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fuck that, will do it when i remove the subframe and go through your post of bracing the damn thing.

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