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Gordo

Gordo's X8 Ramblings

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I run one of those tall faggot shifters not because I thinkbit looks cool but because the height give me the leverage to make my beech short shifter feel almost stock... and I can leave my elbow on the armrest and shift when I'm cruisin... don't knock it till you try it

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Do they make one that vibrates ?

To fight bordom when cruising.........

What type of lube does your lady use, while cruising ?

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Arg !

That has to make for one smelly twat !

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LoL !

 

I have been thinking about picking up some of that fuel fragrance crap, but it's oh so faggy, fruity.

But the local Academy has stuff like Skunk, and Doe in Heat scent :-)

What better way to tag a mustang !!

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Sold out, sent a family member down the river........

 

No, not the X8, a prize kart engine I had, a Mugen 100cc, that very few were ever made,

Sold it for $895.

 

What a traitor, I took cash over love........

But it's not that bad, I have 2 other good ones still, and with the 30 pieces of silver, I bought these:

 

Dunlop Direzza ZIIs

 

du_direzza_zii_ci2_l.jpg

 

215x45-17s front, 235x4017s rear, and even had a few hundred left over.

 

Now I just have to find a tire changer that I can trust my BBS LMs to........

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I think it was wheels America or wheels technologies in San Antonio that we used to refinish wheels. They used to drive up to pick shit up, good price, decent work. A kid named Judd there is a hellaflush wheel whore type. Pretty sure they could do it.

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Crap, Thanks !!

I'll try to run them down.

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I must be a born again cressida owner.......

Actually got a little more done today.

Drilled my front rotors, in spite of Wilwoods fucked slot pattern.

3 angled one direction, 3 the other, and the angles are not the same, even between the ones going in the same direction.

Must have been an enganneer involved with that design.

 

Anyway, drilled a total of 24 holes just to ventilate them a little more. I didn't want to make them look too much like a cheeze grator.

 

DSC06633.jpg

 

Tires are supposed to be here Monday, but they will probably just get stored in the tire room (my bed room) for a while.

Nothing like the smell of rubber in the morning!

 

Managed to finally get my flywheel/clutch assembly down to the local shop, and get it ballanced.

Wasn't out by much, like 15 grams.

Kotzur Racing (good guys if your in the SA area) brought it down to 1 gram.

Edit: Kotzur decided to fire all his machinists, and go it alone. His work now sucks, and has become stupidly expensive.

 

Still need to rebuild the rear calipers, and cut out some titanium pad heat shields.

Fucking people who make them want way too much (like $35-$40/caliper), so I picked up .25mm titanium sheet off eBay for next to nothing. Now I just have to figure how to cut the shit.

Shaped charge ?

Can you shape explosives to punch out a pad shaped piece ?

Anyone work at an abrasive cutting shop ?

Maybe have an industrial laser in their garage ?

 

I also ordered a 5th gear set out of Japan for an '84 Celica. It has a better ratio than what come in the MkIII W58.

Less likely to drop the 7M off the top of the power band (this thing has little below 6k).

 

And I ordered the GX81 tunnel stamping for the manual, as it's different than for the auto.

Oh crap, that means I will need to pull my carpet, strip sound deadener, cut spot welds, and weld the new one in.

Why do I keep making more work for this project ?

 

And I am seriously thinking of tearing the 7M down again.

I didn't order gapless rings this time around, and kind of regretting it.

So I may pop the head & the pan, go to a gapless top, and throw the second ring away, just run one compression, and the oil ring.

Ring drag can cost a lot of power in the upper rpm range.

That is why F1 engines just run 1 ring, just the compression ring, not even an oil ring.

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I would say a page long conversation qualifies as a thread jack. Granted, it's got good info. You should add some more detail to your X8 ramblings about unsprung weight, sway bars and corner balancing.

 

 

Why, besides evidently falling on def ears, it's all over the place anyway.

Handling basics 101.

 

Unsprung weight, the lighter the better, period.

I have never seen anyone ever add unsprug weight to improve handling.

 

Sway bars, spring rates, and dampening must match the car, tires, circuit, and track conditions, period......

Sorry, no magic numbers here.

What works for one track, at a particular temp, will probably be way off if it's hotter, colder, or at a different track all together.

 

Corner weights, road course, street, as ballanced as you can possibly make them.

Unless you are at some strange track, that has one really tight corner, leading onto the longest strait, that you can possibly have a faster exit speed by changing corner weights.

Top end on the main strait is dependant on corner exit.

 

Front to rear, as close to 50/50 as you can build the car.

Left to right, same same.

And only circle track people try to get as much weight on one side of the car as they can.

 

Just so no one has to look it up (heaven forbid, actually pick up a book on handling):

 

Adjustments to:............. Decrease Understeer -------- Decrease Oversteer

 

Front Tire Pressure:........... Higher ..................................Lower

 

Rear Tire Pressure:.............Lower ..................................Higher

 

Front Tire Section:..............Larger.................................Smaller

 

Rear Tire Section:..............Smaller................................ Larger

 

Front Wheel Camber:..........More Negative.......................More Positive

 

Rear Wheel Camber:...........More Positive........................More Negative

 

Front Wheel Toe:.................Toward Toe-Out..................Toward Toe-In

 

Rear Wheel Toe:..................Toward Toe-In....................Toward Toe-Out

 

Front Wheel Caster:..............More Positive......................More Negative

 

Front Springs:.......................Soften...............................Stiffen

 

Rear Springs:.......................Stiffen................................Soften

 

Front Anti-sway Bar:.............Soften (Thinner)..................Stiffen (Thicken)

 

Rear Anti-sway Bar:..............Stiffen (Thicker)..................Soften (Thinner)

 

Weight Distribution:...............More Rearward...................More Forward

 

Also, you should not run any one adjustment at it's maxed out point.

If you get to a max adjustment, back it down, and use one of the other points of adjustment to get your handling to where you want it.

That way, if track conditions change, you have a little fudge room to dial the car in.

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Good info. Coming from mostly lower power Nissans on tight tracks in Japan, I've always had to find ways to increase oversteer. The last time I attempted to play with the X8 (2 years ago) it was way too ass happy so I'll definitely be referring to this later.

 

Also, since the old alignment info is lost in the abyss, this would be a good spot for it.

 

Basic drift alignment:

 

Front caster: +6 to +9 degrees

 

Front toe: -0.25 to -0.50 degrees total out (half that for each side)

 

Front camber: -3 to -6 degrees

 

Rear camber: 0 to -1.5 degrees depending on rear squat

 

Rear toe: 0 to +0.2 degrees depending on rear squat

 

None of that is set in stone. Depending on the characteristics of your car you may want more toe-out in the front or more toe-in in the rear. Good rule of thumb is high caster, lots of front negative camber and a healthy dose of front toe out and you should have fun.

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On tight short tracks, I have always went with stupid high toe-out, like over an inch.

Helps the car turn in a lot quicker.

I have been at events that people walking through the pits ask my why I have so much toe-out,

and just tell them that I hit a curb, and haven't had a chance to get to a shop to correct it.

 

Then proceed to be able to turn inside them on track :)

 

For street, where some tire life would be desirable, I just keep jacking camber until the front end bites.

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I've heard of people going with crazy toe-out for response purposes and then using it on high speed tracks and lost pretty much all grip on straightaways haha. But then it feels amazing once the car is sideways.

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Yeah, not the way to go with anything besides very short straits, like autocross.

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Crap, looks like I have not posted this here yet.

Thought I had........

Maybe in an earlier life.

 

Guts from some Mk3 (GA70 ?), and some X81, and a KPH to MPH conversion gear box.

Some cutting, grinding, glue, and hammer adjusting.

Gives me a 9k tach, and 180mph speedo.

 

DSC05291.jpg

 

 

DSC05291b.jpg

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I wanna see both buried one day

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Managed to get something done today, cut out my titanium heat shields for the front calipers.

 

DSC06690.jpg

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Just sold the second biggest Cressida brake set I ever built, 310mm.

All that work, so little money.......

Oh well, I have larger ones now.

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OK, not being happy with where the shifter from the Mk3 Supra comes up in the X8, I hunted down the correct shifter housing from the GX81.

Turns out that it's the same as what was used on the '92 SC300, before they went to the tripod shifter.

The correct housing is about an inch longer, and saves me from hacking on the tunnel to clear the sequential shifter adaptor.

 

MA70 shifter location when used in an X8, picture stolen from someone else, don't remember who:

 

MA70-W58inX8.jpg

 

MA70 shifter compared to the one that belongs on the X8:

 

DSC06723.jpg

DSC06724.jpg

 

The internal arm is also longer, of course.

 

The part number of these are:

Housing: 33570-24020

Arm: 33502-24080

Gasket: 33584-30010 (thinner, paper style, not the thick rubber one with steel spacers)

 

I was able to source the housing from Lexus of Atlanta.

The arm, and gasket are coming out of Japan, should be here Thursday.

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