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Gordo's X8 Ramblings

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Finally put all the finishing touches on the adaptor plate, like assembly access holes, throw-out lug, and throw-out support.










Not going with the Quartermaster throw-out shown, as I had a Coleman that the bleed hole was at the top, that I liked better.

Off to the welder soon, then the helicoils can be installed, and ready for the final trans assembly.


I also swapped barrels on my wheels, so that the 9" rears had gold centers, instead of the silver they came with.

That means I can finally mount rubber :)





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OK, as many of you know many of the simple little parts are no longer available from Toyota.


One of these is the small press in bronze bushing that goes in the block, to support the top end of the oil pump shaft.
Toyota p/n 11437-45010.
After 25 years of getting fed unfiltered oil directly from the pump, these are typically worn, as is the shaft end.
When this bushing & shaft gets worn, more pressure is applied to the bushing in the pump. just below the gear, and when that gets sloppy, the gears move away from each other, and start wearing.


Thankfully, there are a few pumps floating around still, but no bushings.


Now is some of you remember, I got on the parasitic drag quest a few years ago.
One of the things I made was a needle bearing replacement for that bushing.



But I never put this in, as I had 2 issues with the idea.
1) That was a very small bearing, to fit the 7M's 8mm shaft.
2) The 7M shaft is not hard.
That made me realize that this idea was not the best solution.


So I used my last new OEM bushing when I built this latest engine.
I even moly coated the bore.
But it still bugged me that there wasn't a better way.


After who knows how much coffee (no drugs mind you), I came across a better way to use a needle bearing in this location.

Found a closed end bearing, with the same OD as the hole in the block (16mm).
It has a 12mm ID.

Located a hardened steel precision ground bushing that has the required 8mm ID, and 12mm OD.
The through hole in the pump shaft was small enough to drill & tap a M5x.8mm thread in it.


Then had the problem of how to get oil to the bearing.
Came across 'vented' cap screws while searching for something else, but none of them were long enough.
So figured what the hell, lets see if I can drill a 1.5mm hole through a damn black oxide M5 FHCS.
I can either do it, or the frigging little drill will snap, get stuck in the hole, and end up costing me $1.50, and a little time.


Well, it worked :)
One drill is good for one 25mm long cap screw, and it takes a lot of time, and caution to not screw things up, but it turned out good.


All it then took was running a 4.2mm drill into the pump shaft to get the correct hole diameter, and tapping it.


This I'm happy with.



Drilling a little bitty hole through 25mm long cap screw.
Note the copper between the chuck jaws, and the screw to keep from damaging the threads.
Did the same on the pump shaft.


Tapping the pump shaft, after drilling it 4.2mm (only about a .5mm increase)


The bearing is a BK1210.
Bushing is an un-shouldered metric drill bushing, 8mm ID, 12mm OD, and 16mm long.
Had to grind a 45 degree seat for the cap screw to sit in.
And the screw is an M5 x .8 x 25mm long FHCS.
Total cost (not including 25 pounds of instant coffee, or machine work, or shipping) is less then $25.


Mein Fuhrer, I can walk !

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Well, don't hold your breath.

Wild ass ideas are coming fewer, and farther between.

May be due to the drugs I did back in the '70s are finally wearing off.

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