Jump to content

Gordo's X8 Ramblings

Recommended Posts

Trial fitted the 9x17 55 offset wheels today.

Inner lip is about 10mm from JIC bodies, and about even with the bottom of the spring.

Outer lip is about 14mm from the outer edge of the wheel arch.

So, as it looks now, I will need about a 10mm spacer to keep the inner sidewall of the 235x40 tires off the spring, and get a lot more aggressive with the fender roll.


See, I actually haven't forgot that I own an X-chassis.....

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So you have 2" more rim, for 10mm more tire......

And you did this why ?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty sure it will be fine.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just tried flipping the wheel center from the outside of the barrel flange, to the inside.

Moved the barrel out 16mm.

Probably going to be next week end before I can trial fit again.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, after a year, managed to sell 5 of these 7M oil pump drive conversions, and did the same to mine, which was already converted to roller bearings.


And until Photo-Puke kills my picture links.....

The original:



And mine:



And yes, my 7M is apart again.....

Stayed together for 7 years :)

(on an engine stand)

But I had put it together without a gapless ring, and just before Quake over on SupraForums discovered the shouldered ARP washers for the head, to stop the head fasteners from losing torque, which was much of the head gasket problem on this steam engine.

So it was destined to come apart any way.

Figured while I was at it, the stock oil pump drive pulley weak point needed to be addressed.


And the needle thrust bearing wasn't my idea, but that of Andrew @ Technico in Australia.

I just copied it because I just happen to have the right size needle thrust bearing in my junk collection.

Another X-chassis guy from the debunked TC.net forum.


I had addressed the thrust surface failures by grinding directional oiling slots in the stock retainer plate, and never had any more problems,

but a true bearing is such a better idea.

He sells his kit for $135-ish from his web site.

Need to check out his products.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

18x11 +11 245 30


Tire size does not exist in 18".19" yes.18" no.You mean 245/35/18 right.



Gordon that oil pump drive conversion is pretty slick.Good price to.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, there may be life in this thread still.......

Just accepted a position as lead maintenance tech with a large manufacturing facility, that promises lots of overtime.


Well, that lasted all of 8 months or so.

They were failing, losing major customers to the point they hardly had any production, laying people off, and cutting back everyone else's hours to the point I was lucky to work even 30 hours a week.


Quit them when UPS called, offered me a job.

A little less $$, but great benefits, so I quit the other place.

UPS was all smoke & mirrors, and when I got my first check found out that they were paying less than I was promised.

So told those ass holes where to shove their new 275k square foot auto-sort facility that they can't keep running.


Back to being an eBay whore until something better comes along.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It always has in the past :)


For now, I'm selling off some of my children.

No, not my cats, no money in it.

Decided I needed a 50+ kart engine collection about as much as I need AIDS.



Must be something in human DNA, from our hunter/gatherer roots.


But sold 17 of them so far, and acquired enough cash to go after an HPI/Nissan S15-R close ratio 6-speed.

If I get that, both my W58s, and the Ikeya sequential shifter will be offered up for sale.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, the HPI trans is mine :)


The fun will start when ever it gets here, as I get to figure out what needs to be machined, and welded to get it to bolt to the 7M.

Would like to find a stock S15-R trans that is fucked, so I can have a spare front case, so that if I ever want to sell it, the 7M bell housing can be swapped out for the original SR.


Gear Ratios:
1st: 2.9071
2nd: 1.9888
3rd: 1.5373
4th: 1.2179
5th: 1.1000
6th: 0.8624



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem is that a S13/S14 bell (5-speed), won't bolt to the 6-speed.

Posted on Zilvia that I'm looking for a dead S15-R bell. I know those guys have killed some of the stock 6-speeds.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

No it won't... the Ikeya Gordo has is different than the one I have. He already made all of the adapter shit for the one he has.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

ahh so engine side is same pattern but the bell to box is not the same?

s15 motors tend to just bolt the s13 or s14 boxes to them as the s15 trans and diff work together....ive never looked into that as to the why. i assume its driveshaft length and a diff thats specific to the s15 or something

nissans tend to just reuse everything across most of their chassis, which is why this is so weird

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

They really don't have a separate bellhousing, but yeah, were the front case half bolts to the rear case half is different.

The S15 6-speed even has a different output spline, so the 240 guys can't even use their old driveshafts.

Haven't even researched driveshaft length compatibility, as no matter what I do, it requires a custom.


Yeah, pretty strange, seeing that I can take the front half of my 40 year old Datsun 5-speed, and by just boring the countershaft bearing bore a couple of millimeters larger, it will go right on a 240 5-speed.

Wouldn't even have to do that if I wanted to run the smaller early bearing (that fail).


But the S15 diff is nearly the same, and there is still a lot of interchangeability between it's internals and other R200s.


Some of the 6-speed trans have a hole to put in either a speed sensor, or speedo cable drive, but not all.

None of them have the gear to drive them, but some have the snap ring groves, and dimple in the shaft for the little ball they use as a key, but not all.

People are taking the 240SX gear, and boring it to fit the larger 6-speed output shaft. Then if they have to, cut the groves, and machine in the dimple.


What I've found so far is that the HPI has the hole in the case, an the snap ring groves/dimple.

I'm thinking that the correct speed drive gear is to be found somewhere in Nissan's parts listings.


And there is supposed to be some interchangeability between the other cars that use this trans, like the IS200, BRZ, MX5, S2000, and RX8.

So I have a lot of research yet to do.....

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

My HPI 6-speed just hit the door :)

First measurements are showing that the shifter center will be about 2.5" further back from the automatic opening center, so no problems foreseen there.


Weight is 92.6 lbs.

Takes a Nissan auto yoke, which the Drive Shaft Shop has in stock for the people doing the S15 trans into the 240 swaps.

Pilot bearing, is a lot larger on the Nissan, 16mm vs. 12mm, so I will lose the ball bearing pilot that is in the 7M.

Guess it's back to a bushing.


The coaxial throw-out bearing I made up for my truck, fits just fine, so I will need to pick up another one of those.


Now, just to shorten the bellhousing by 3.5", and weld on 3.185" of 7M bellhousing.

Unfortunately, the Nissan bellhousing is about .5" larger diameter than the W58 at that point, so it looks like there will be some plate sandwiched in there.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

.5" diameter larger at what wall thickness? you might be able to lap joint the s15 bell over the fail-m's.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The castings are not nice concentric circles, but all wibbely-wobblely, so that would make things nearly impossible.

And a lap joint would be nearly impossible to maintain center lines.

In fact, I can't possible imagine where a lap joint even has a place on anything automotive besides a lumberjack's truck exhaust.


Now, for where this is going a of today....

Cleaned to small amount of road grime off, so I can pop it apart.

Started taking basic measurements.


Looks that using the auto bellhousing un-cut will be a better option.

Looking at making an adaptor plate that just bolts to the auto bellhousing, and welding that to the shortened Nissan trans case.


Found cad files on line for the Toyota auto end, outer shape, bolt hole placement, and pilot diameter.

Just need to measure up what the trans end will need to be.


More to come...........

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now