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Guest Lofty

Lofty's Mark II Wannabe Shitbox NSFW

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leave it(if it isn't structural) it will still look good with nice wheels, get a less rusty car after you wreck this one

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I'm not on your dick, I'm on your ass. Because somehow you've made it like two years here with no progress or knowledge gained other then spending cash on fanboy dreams. You gonna start getting mad?

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Alright well keep checking back here sweetheart <3333 I'm happy you are so concerned with me. :wub::wub::wub::wub:

 

 

No progress, maybe. Nothing learned? Not quite.

 

I don't need to explain to you my life situation currently to any of you on here. Aim your angst at someone else, not everyone is a mechanic for a living with a lot of free time.

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Stop being a faggot searching for approval from people on here (cause you're never gonna get it) and build your fucking car... or sell methose overs since I highly doubt they will ever actually get put to use... you wanna be a badass prove me wrong dont fuckin cry about it

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I remember living in the Great White North, eh (Southern Canada, AKA wisconsin),

and about everything I owned looked like that.

 

Welded in new sections, sheet steel, rivited in aluminum, even stuffed newspaper in rust holes, and bondoed over it.

So fucking glad I'm in Texas now.

 

You sir, are way to ambitious !

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Eh. Lol. You get pretty good at this shit when youve lived here for 20 something years. Hard part is over. I have a rocker panel again. The door bump stop area is going to be a pain to shape so we sectioned it into a bunch of components. Panel shaping is being done by hand/hammer/metal pipes. So far this turned out great. When its daytime ill snap a better picture. Need to grind down the welds on the rockers and coat it. Other than the rear QP she should cancer free after im done. I hand bent weel whell lips as well. Need to get the needlegun and needle some of the rear end brace area as it is starting to get there. Everything is going perfect so far. I am.doing this with a clarke 130 volt mig wilder with shield gas. More updates when I shape the rest of the panels.

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Wtf you doing? You have overs and a kit you're just wasting time and money... cut the shit out seal it and leave it at that you're gonna end up cutting most of it out if you plan on fitting any sort of wheels with those overs and being low anyway

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Swim, you would be dangerous with a welder.........

I have visions of a 1J welded to a volvo trans, 2 miata intakes welded to the head.

 

Bad idea, stick with bolt-ons.

You are scary enough as it is............

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bwcress, I have to form a lip for where the top part of the sideskirt mounts too. The rest of the lip is staying cut out. You can see roughly where I left the spot of clean metal for the skirts.

 

2 3x3 sheets of 18gage metal - 30$
Welder - Owned
Time - I don't know drinking beer and being outside is what I'd be doing anyways.

 

I need to fix the metal roller that we snapped doing something stupid on my buddies Chevelle -____-

All that's left for repair is the middle section of the rocker near the middle of the car. I bought one of these to apply the over fenders as I do not like the idea of riveting the fenders on.
13502d1195648820-nutsert-tool-nutsert-1.

Its like a rivet, but makes a threaded hole, I will then attach the overs with fasteners. Still trying to decide on either black oxide hex cap screws, or something else. Will probably go with the hex caps as it will look the most aesthetically pleasing IMO.

 

Will have more updates when it stops raining here.

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6x16

Seems a little long for flares, but they have all sizes.

They even have the 6mm nut-zerts (the tool you show above) and mandrels.

I use them all the time.

Or if you have deep pockets, titanium button heads.

 

Black oxide will rust really quick.

 

Better yet, use plastic fasteners, if you hit something, they will shear without damaging the area that the nut-zert is in.

Or velcro :)

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Swim, thanks for the stainless button head fastener. I was trying to remember what those were called for the life of me. Appreciate ya.

 

Gordo, yeah I heard that about black oxide. Looks like button heads are the way to go.

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black oxide eats shit super quick, even zinc isn't that great up here. stainless steel FTMFW, especially on little shit that's liable to snap if it rusts

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You could also do flange button head cap screws, countersunk flat head cap screws, or flat head cap screws with finish washers.

 

If you do metric fhcs and need to countersink them remember the csk is a different angle than standard screws.

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2 words "Dzus fastener"

I would use these to mount the overfenders.Then you can pop them on and off with the greatest of ease whenever you want. body_h9_zps8c53ad8b.jpg

http://www.dzusfasteners.net/

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They also make them in large round head, both aluminum, and plastic.

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Probably going to go with the button head fasteners. Less work.

 

Mounted them up with normal hex caps today just because I wanted to do them today.

Gonna buy better hardware later.

 

1233620_10151900437382556_661512725_n.jp

995508_10151900178977556_2058916890_n.jp

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You should open up that wheel arch so it doesn't look some 90s GM.

Never liked how he lowered that opening.

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We will see once I get my final wheels (varrstoen or works)

 

I need a good rear camberplate suggestion. Any ideas?

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