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Guest Lofty

Lofty's Mark II Wannabe Shitbox NSFW

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Motor is nearly buttoned up, need some clamps. Wanted to say thanks to Kyle and Brian and Demesio for helping me figure all this fucking bullshit out.

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Is that white thing on the firewall, behind the intake manifold what I think it is ?

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Lmao, yep.

Which I still don't fully understand why I need a valve there. Most non toyotas *always* have coolant running to the heater core. I don't really get why I was told not having a valve here is stupid.


But yeah, in lieu of spending a lot of money on essentially the same thing, if I need some heat, ill just pop the hood and open er up.

I tried to put one of these on, but it just didn't work. I still might.

c7fb1d0c-034a-465c-bbb2-978c9ae8d0b5.jpg

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Same here sort of. Parts store only carries a valve that moves differently than stock so I just leave valve disconnected. Open/close by hand.

 

Glad your shit box lives.

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Well, at least it's not the next step down, a pair of ViseGrips.

I paid $25 for a new control valve to clear my ITB manifold, and it wasn't even chinese,

so my climate control still works.

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Thanks Jacob. I look back on the earlier posts on this thread and realize all the mistakes I made. This shell is kinda crusty but whatever, sentimental value or whatnot.

 

I tossed it out not thinking about it and then realized it was ridiculous to buy again. I will see how it works. I kind of like it. Keep it closed for track days, open it for street. Gives me an excuse to check over my engine before tracking it anyways.

Do we wanna start a poll; how long will it take for me to smash this car up / blow it up?



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Do we wanna start a poll; how long will it take for me to smash this car up / blow it up?

 

 

You'll probably last longer than me haha.

 

All this heater valve stuff I was stuggling to get mine to open (vacuum actuated) with 264s so I bought a vacuum pump and had big dreams but instead just zip tied the valve open for now haha, not that you will go back to factory valve, but the actuating part is the same x7/v8 you just have to switch the arms outs. My buddies one had lost both ports to corrosion.

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Got some minor shit done tonight. Work is slowing down a bit due to my cluster migraines. What a painful condition.

Jf8qwG2.jpg

Put a 90* adapter on my turbo feed cause I figured it would rip and start a fire.

 

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ordered some fgt nissan calipers and ground off N I S S A N cause I am that spiteful. Then used that special 2 part paint for these thing. Ended up turning out pretty good, went a little heavy on the brush strokes.


Aaaaaand heres some other random shit from my life.

a9EELnE.jpg

nkk66ek.jpg

 

 

 

mNnfd8D.jpg

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Goddamn, I want a SportCross daily bad. But I've decided to blow up my Impreza wagon before I start actively looking for one

 

Have you checked the hood clearance with that radiator yet? I have the actual X8 Mishimoto and I had to shave some rubber off the lower mounts so the cap cleared. But it could just be my car; my radiator support isn't exactly factory straight anymore.

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The Wagginnnnn is the waifus,

Which makes it kinda mine since I have to fix it and do all the shit to it anyways.

Urrik Im like 90% sure my hood isnt going to fit but I don't want to worry about it right now, lol.

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Because I am stubborn as fuck I wasted too much time on refinishing these wheels. I don't want to admit how much time I spent, but it was a pain in the fucking ass. I shoulda ordered new barrels but again, I am stubborn.

CUkJRW0.png

8F4TYjG.png
f5emW4J.png

 

I need to wire up my fans, put fluids in the car and put brakes on and I should be on the road here.

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do they still make those over fenders?

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Yeah Dmax makes them.Pretty sure anything "ZaZZ" related is dead in the water lol.

http://www.dmax-us.com/aeroparts/fender/rear-overfender.html

Like this http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=2156&hl=driftaholic

S13 shit.

https://scalesuspension.com/shop/en/wide-works/1026-nissan-180sx240sx-s13-89-98-rear-overfenders-wideworks.html

Trim to fit X8.

Or spend more and get orgin labs stuff http://www.origin-lab.com/main/products/fender/

Or just buy S9,or just buy some decent zg style flares.

Fuck google s13 wide body rear over and so much shit comes up.So many wide body options these days.Rocket bunny,liberty walk blah blah blah.Jose's aero.Then theres the russian shit.Wide body stuff is endless these days.

 

Wheels look great Lofty!!! Super stoked to see the progress that has been made!! Love the fact you have stuck to your guns and built this car on your own time your way man!!!

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Few things~

I might be able to reproduce those overfenders soon. Not sure, decent sized investment.

https://streamable.com/2cqgk


Finally got it running good. Emanage is being a slut. I am getting ignition input channel 1-6 while it runs like this?
Is this due to distributor? I made sure the wiring is good so I am not really sure why I'd be getting these ignition errors. Nobody active on here uses emanage so I doubt I will get any responses to this.

Emanage says its like 26-30* timing when I adjust the distributor, is it possible its just off? How do I even set this with a timing light with coil on plug? Kyle said theres a loop somewhere that I can put the signal wire over. And I could run a trace wire but I don't really wanna do that if I'm just missing something.


What a meme, I can drive it but the front main seal is pissing out oil. Gotta take it all apart. Fuck my life.


Edit: regarding the ign channels, I keep seeing this.
The ignition wiring in the Emanage is very delicate and you must pay attention to the firing order channels.

eg: 15 36 24
Ch1 = t1
Ch2 = t5
Ch3 = t3
Ch4 = t6
ch5 = t2
ch6 = t4


I have this just set
T1 - CH1
T2 - CH2
T3 - CH3
T4 -CH4
T5- CH5
T6 - CH6

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So what is the story on the kart ?

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Glad you got it together bud. Still gotta point out Ive swapped my car and dailied it twice. But hey, at least youre winning the life race!

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The Spitfire is my grandpas he bought out of a sears robuck catalog. He used to cruise down town from the farm on it with a pbr between his legs. A real legend.

Im still deciding what motor to put on it. I kinda want to retain the true dual motor setup.

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A pair of McCulloch Mc6s or West Bend 580s would be period correct.

Unrestored as it sits, maybe $500-$750.

Restored, with engines $2k and up.

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Good to know Gordo. Ive seen guys put fuckin chainsaw motors on these.

Any idea where to get parts for it? I need to do some weld work on it. Didnt know it was worth that much though.

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Just have to keep an eye out on one of the vintage kart forums or eBay.

Sprockets are all over the place, in just about any tooth count, as are clutches, engines, engine mounts.

Upholstery would have to be made, going by old photos, or literature.

A McCulloch kart engine was just a stripped saw engine back then, all the way up to the last days of their all out kart engines, they basically the saw blocks with a little wilder port timing.

A good, cheap replacement for a Mc6, 7, or 8 is the McCulloch Mc15 chain saw.

They have a few ports not machined into the block, but with twins they still would be fun if done right.

 

Here is a typical early '60s Mac engine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-McCulloch-Go-Kart-Engine-w-Vantech-Carb-Reed-Muffler/302865161800?hash=item46842b9e48:g:FsUAAOSw3txbM7c4:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!78233!US!-1&vxp=mtr

 

An unrestored Rupp twin engine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Go-Kart-1968-Rupp-Chaparral-CS-1-with-Dual-McCulloch-Motors/302860092173?hash=item4683de430d:g:p5gAAOSwRhVbg3NM&vxp=mtr

 

And an old West Bend engine brochure: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Very-Rare-1960-West-Bend-580-700-Winners-Choice-Go-Kart-Engine-Ad/190686463684?hash=item2c65cc86c4:g:DycAAMXQ-9hRF3Jy:sc:USPSFirstClass!78233!US!-1

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