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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

What gear oil is best for R154?

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

Soon I'm going to be changing up my clutch and was curious to what fluid everyone prefers in their r154,I seen red line on DM but I figured I'd ask here before I order anything.

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I wanna say 80w-90 is what it calls, for but honestly can't remember. I do know it calls for 3.2 qts

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

Did the redline make a big difference from what was in there before? And good looks on the quarts because I had no idea how much it takes,so I need to get at least 4 Qts.Wouldn't hurt to have left overs.

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Guest Mitto

Redline and redline only.....

 

Once I rebuild my R154 thats whats going in mine.

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at work we use redline shock proof. holy balls this stuff is awesome. it's opaque and turqoise in color and STICKS to everything. you'd probably be able to get away with the standard 80w90 or 75w90 for daily street use but i'd switch to that if i drifted or road raced my car. i've seen firsthand the benefits of using it in our webster and hewland transmissions.

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we use the lightweight. that looks like superlight which i have no experience with. i've torn down or watched several gearboxes being town down that have run it hard under race conditions and high input shaft rpms for hours and they always wipe away clean with a shop towel. no residue ever, and no signs of burning or loss of viscosity. i can take pics next time im inside one of the boxes before during and after running through the parts washer.

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Guest swim

huh. I've just heard that lightweight and heavyweight shockproof can gunk up like that when used for extended periods of time in roadgoing gearboxes

 

on track cars and the like where the transmissions are being constantly being rebuilt and cleaned out, it's great, but supposedly in street cars you stand a chance of the pictured stuff happening. fuck if I know, though.

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we use rotary engines in our race cars. unlike a lot of the other piston engined cars i've worked around (formula enterprise and atlantic) they don't require rebuilding that often unless the driver is hard on them. our shop cars get driven for an average of 12-18 hours a week (if you added up the time my miata is being driven on the road it's probably about the same if not less) and spend a lot of time just sitting between sessions or on off days. i'd say that is pretty close to the way i drive my miata (not a lot of power, rev the piss out of it at every opportunity). i am going to run this stuff in my transmission the next time i have a chance and i will let you know how it does on the street.

 

i'll probably end up leaving it in there for at least 6 months and i'll check it out after.

 

im not arguing, just sharing personal firsthand experience.

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Guest Lofty

I use Syncromesh in my drag car. Has anyone tried it on our transmissions? AFAIK it's GL4 and GL5 compliant.

Either that or Redline anything, can't really go wrong with it. I mix redline heavyweight MTL and syncromesh on my car, but I've got no idea about w58/r154s.

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I had wondered about syncromesh as I had use to run it in a tremec I had in a foxbody. put it in your car and let us know lofty. we need to know

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Guest JerryCan

I used Redline one time in an old Datsun 510 5-speed, and it was too slippery for the syncros to work.

Trans shifted fine with normal gear oil, but when the Redline was put in, it was almost impossible to shift.

Drained the trans, and put normal oil back in, and it shifted better, but still had problems.

Changed the oil again, to get all traces of the Redline out, and the trans was fine again.

 

Maybe it was the older design trans, or the design of the Nissan syncros, but it sure didn't like the Redline.

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

I used syncromech and dex 6 in my camaros t56 it worked wonders,shifted way smoother.I am defiantly going to go with redline though. Thanks for the advice everyone.

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Guest JerryCan

Well, been surfing, and may have found why the Redline didn't work well in the old datsun.

I have found several refferences to the fact that you should not use a GL5 oil in anything with 'Yellow metal' syncros, as it is too slippery, and will also corrode them.

GL-4 only.

So after I get my w58 back together, I will go with some Red Line MT-90 GL-4, maybe with a little shock-proof mixed in.

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Guest Lofty

Alright, I'll throw it in my w58, not even fucking around.

 

 

Let's do this shit.

 

I'll make a thread about how it works.

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Guest swim

in Subaru transmissions, five and six speed alike, the synchros are yellow metal, but you should use a GL-5 compliant oil to not explode the hypoid gears for the front differential. what I came up with for that, and what I got my friends to use, was two quarts of MT90 with 1.7 quarts of 75W90NS on top. everyone that tried it loved it. on both my 5-speeds, I was able to heel-toe into first at 20mph, a feat which may be impossible depending on the oil you're using. couldn't've had anything to do with wear, since my piece of shit stock transmission which stripped 2nd gear clean of it's teeth at 140k was always able to do it since I switched to the redline blend.

 

I don't know if our synchros are yellow metal or not, but I'm definitely planning on running either MT90 or a mix of MT90 and a shockproof oil, if shockproof is safe to use.

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Guest Lofty

"Heel toe into first at 20mph"

 

Why would you even feel the need to do this? Thats how transmissions are ruined lol.

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Guest swim

1st on that bitch goes to like 35, gears are long as shit. 20mph is only like 3500-4000. so like, the bottom of the powerband.

 

so yeah, no idea why you'd ever want to downshift to there

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

While we are still on the talk about gear oil, does anyone know what weight belongs in the diff of a stock Cressida? Because I don't have a owners manual in mine and just thought I'd ask while we are still in the category.

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Shake it. Twist it. BUMP it!

 

 

It's been a year since this was last discussed how did the drift season go for eveyone trans wise? Any horror stories or good luck stories on gear oil?

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