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MX83MISSILE

Kinugawa ct15b

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I saw these on eBay the other day and wanted to share with you all .

http://www.ebay.com/...ssories&vxp=mtr

 

They use a 60-1 wheel and a steel turbine wheel , the other ct15b turbos I have seen all had stock compressor wheels. I had a 7m-gte back in the day (early 1990's) with a 60-1 wheeled ct26 and was able to make 400+ whp in a mkIII .

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good price and all, but under application they list it as Nissan. Makes me wonder. But seriously nice price.

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Pretty sure this is similar to what Bill has on his new setup.

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No, I just have the standard rebuilt CT they sell. It has the same size everything, but the turbine is steel and thicker than the factory ceramic.

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So what's your ride report on the steel wheeled ct15b ? I'm still on stock and I'm satisfied with it for now but I know some day she will give out .

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I don't know what the stock one felt like so really can't say.

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Mine has bean stock going on four years and I have run it at 15 psi of boost and 17 on my hi boost setting . Have you dynoed your car with this turbo ?

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I will probably have results within a few weeks, but the shape of the turbine is essentially identical, just the blades are a tiny bit thicker and steel. It spools very quick and soon like it's obviously supposed to.

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Guest Piner

yeah I didn't see this thread and made a post in one of the other forums about it. D'oh

 

Im curious about this as well. Shit is pretty cheap, especially if all you are looking for is 350-370 whp

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I believe if the turbo is good quality a 60-1 wheel should crack 400 whp with the supporting mods like 550cc injectors , big front mount , 3+" exhaust and some sort of piggy back to control fuel . Our MKIII had a stock manifold and it made 400+ whp .

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I noticed tonight the regular Kinugawa CT15b with just the steel turbine makes about 0.79 bar (11.5psi) boost running the same stock actuator. I've read that the stock one normally makes 0.7 (10.15psi) running all stock, don't know if that's correct. doubt this matters much, just letting you guys know.

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Looking at getting one of these considering my friends motor came with a blown one. Mines fine for now..but would like to have this just in-case.

any real world comparison form anyone??

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Tyler(?) has one. been running it for like two years with no issues. I'll be getting one when my stock turbo is totally shot.

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has anyone done the twin rebuild that suprastore and drift motion offer? twin disco potatoes running in true twin sounds fucking radical. i believe one of the guys on here even has a way to mod the stock exhaust manifold to be a true twin manifold as well. Guy maybe?

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what about the dump tube and the wastegate that is inbetween .. not the reed valve one, i already deleted that one

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I have done the special sauce true twins mod on suprafourms but none of any of this is actually true twins on a 2jz-gte only the front turbo has a waste gate and the rear turbo has a spool up valve . The only way to make the 2jz-gte true twin or bi turbo is to mod a front turbo and mount it on the rear manifold or fit the rear turbo with a customized front exhaust housing .

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Or you can press a section of pipe into the turbine housing of the rear turbo and drill through the wall of the housing where the wastegate passage is supposed to be like I did (if using aristo turbos, supra stuff is different). With the manifold split, and two separate working wastegates shit gets proper. I would say spool was 25-30% quicker. Hard to tell for sure HOW awesome it was because my twins were on their way out when I did this (they were free) and I did it as an experiment when I put in my twin-plate. The next thing I was going to do was build a twin intake for each turbo like the aftermarket kits for FD3S's and dyno it.... but then some asshole ran into my car and I bought a real turbo.

 

 

I've been contemplating selling the manifolds/housings and down pipe so if you nerds are interested let me know. Down pipe would fit up to factory cat location and is all 14ga SS.

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So has anyone had a good experience with the Kinugawa 60-1 replacement?? Like it lasted more then 10k miles at 13-14psi?

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I've got like 500 hard miles on mine at 16-20psi. At $565 it was a good deal but $665 puts you halfway to a decent single starter setup and if one kinugawa blows then you're 100% at a single setup.

Long story short: a cheap single setup would feel better and be proven to last longer. But you'll have to deal with fab and fuel cut with a MAF. Pros and cons.

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Yea I agree. I am only looking for approx. 40-50 more hp/tq.

 

Problem is I got a good deal on a w58 at the time not thinking about the future. If I could find a decent r154 for a fair price I would grab it. But unfortunately all the SR20 drift kids are now going 1j/2j and the prices have shot up over the last 2-3years. $3-4k for r154 and good twin plate makes me not want to even fuck with it.

 

I was thinking about 3076 at 15-16ish psi would give me around 350ish hp. Then turn it up when I get the right tranny in there. Just scarred of the w58 giving up the ghost as right now its my daily.. Really thinking about selling my q45 and getting a truck. :unsure:

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