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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

Apexi SAFC

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

I recently took about 20 to 30 minutes of my time to figure out how to get in and out of all the settings in my tuner so that maybe I could teach my self how to use it,and gradually been trying to fix my AFR. I am familiar with how to adjust hi and low throttle through out the rpm range,but I was wondering if anyone knew how to accurately adjust the in and outs? Their all set at 1 and 1,also what would the safest AFR be for high boost,generally 17-18 psi range. I was told while spooling up should be in the mid 12's,but I wasn't sure once you hit peak boost were I should be at. This may sound like a bunch of novice questions because I've never owned a boosted car before,I just went from owning a LS1 Z28 to a 1J Cressida,so It's a big change..

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anytime you see positive manifold pressure: 12:1 afr. anytime you see 7-10 lbs of boost, 12:1 afr....10lbs and up, 11:1 afrs. thats super rough, but should keep you from blowing it up. what are you using for management? stock ecu and safc arent the best for higher boost levels, but i'd be lying if i said its something i wouldn't do.

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

Yes I am using stock ecu and the safc, I plan to upgrade to a standalone in a month or two. I don't plan to go past 17 psi. I may even just stick with 15..Damn 11.1 does seem kind of rough wouldn't like 11.7 closer to 12.0 be better in high boost?

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and now you sound like a cunt that doesn't take advice. i think 17:1 sounds great for high boost!!!

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

I had actually spoken to the guy who is going to dyno tune my car earlier and he has tuned a handful of nasty 1js,he said 11.7 in high boost would be fine, I am taking all the advice I can get from everyone trust me.I didn't mean for it to come off that way, I appreciate the advice.I may actually just stick to 14-15 psi until I get a standalone do you think that'd be safer then going toward 17 psi with stock ecu and piggyback?

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Guest Mitto

If your going standalone, dont bother fucking with the standard ECU/SAFC and run the risk of blowing something up like Austin (jokes brosif).

 

Drive it as is and enjoy it. When you buy the standalone, sell the ECU/SAFC combo to some dumb shit and use the money on tuning your new standalone...

 

 

For realz

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11.7:1 is fine on standalone because it won't fuck with timing. safc advances timing as you pull fuel, and retards as you add. with 1jz, 440cc injectors, safcII and 15-17 psi, i was pulling fuel and advancing timing. i didn't blow up my 1jz so to speak, i just let a catastrophic rear main seal go unnoticed on the interstate while doing pulls. don't be an idiot, keep the arfr's rich and you'll be fine.

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Guest OrlandoGTE11211

Oh damn, I guess I'm glad to hear that he had the rear main seal replaced while the motor was built,but your right I probably won't even go for 15, I may stick with 12 or 13 till the standalone comes because I'm not trying to jeopardize anything. I mean 12-13 should be more then enough with a 6765 to get me decent power and some what decent reliability.Right now I am focusing on doing all the maintenance, I just did plugs and replaced all 6 coils, trying to figure out why my IAC is stucked closed,Fuel Filter,Diff. Gear Oil, I plan to put Redline in my Trans. once I do the clutch. You guys ever have any issues with the IAC?

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Guest Gaijin Smash Wayhoff

Mine was causing a ridiculous 1000-3000 rpm rev every time I came to a stop. I looked like a douche at stop lights trying to race everyone. I stripped the whole car after that and haven't put it back together yet to find out why exactly...

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