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axis888x

flying couch (chronic)les

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finally sold my 240 slag, got my tax return and bought my 1jz. i plan on building a well rounded drift sedan out of my x73. I ended up going with the VVTi version since my roommate has a r154 from a 7mgte that i snagged. also after a little research there seemed to be no reason to get a non vvti motor. this is my first build thread so it will be pretty choppy probably.

here she is when i bought her, sitting next to my trusty wagon.
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kept my 3-piece wantanabes and threw them on. they look awesome.
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then the motor got here
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abridged plans so far:

1JZ VVTi
R154
ACT 6-puck clutch
Xcessive mounts
SerialNine coilovers/ subframe bushings
Z32 brakes
Driftmotion IC kit ✓

so when i got the motor we did a compression test and all cylinders read 90 except for one which read 120. right now i am tearing down the motor to find out what is the problem. i have never done anything this involved on a car so this will be a crazy learning experience.

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Shoulda kept your 240. X7 drift car haha. School ain't cheap. Especially the one you just enrolled in

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i came to that realization a little before i sold it. can a x7 really drift anywhere near as well as a 240?

 

with all the extra work i'll become a better mechanic instead of being a bolt-on mastah even if there is more downtime. got the motor nearly torn down, the exhaust manifold is weird looking. are those flex tubes really necessary?

 

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EDIT:

got the motor on the stand and did more teardown stuff. trying to figure out how to get in inside so i can just pull an all nighter and get it done.

 

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fun and games are over. looks like it might be time to start selling my less used possessions and get a second job. i have been told that the discoloration on the cams is from a severe overheat and is a sign of further shittyness. the outside looked so good i thought i had gotten a good one. i guess i'll be having some wonderful conversations with TexasJDM, see if i cant get a refund or another motor from them.

 

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You really can't tell about motors from the outside. It's a start, but that's about it.

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Why do only half your pictures work?

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they seem to work on my screen. i'll try a different hosting site next time.

 

i should be able to get it torn down by the end of the week. also i've ran across a lot of pictures of jdm engines that look similar. could it be that i'm making too big a deal about it? maybe people in japan dont change their oil as much as we do.

 

EDIT: pictures are fixed.

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none of this shit works use photobucket

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got a bunch of parts, probably one of 4 large boxes. prolly going to get a beater to drift so i'm not impatient with this build, its turning out to be more of a project than i had imagined, which is good. aaron at driftmotion sent me an 11lb flywheel since he was out of the oem ones. i hope this will be alright for street driving.

 

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the top end is at the machine shop getting a valve job and new valve springs. moving on to block soon hopefully. got new piston rings, arp mainstuds, headstuds and rod bolts on the way. im hoping to build a reliable 350 hp motor that can handle a little fun.

 

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a question for those with excessive mounts. did you all get 2 of the same part or are there left and right specific mounts?

 

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sweet well i dont know shit about building cars so now i'm learning. if i wanted to bolt a bunch of things onto a motor i'd stick with the 240. what would you suggest i do since the motor is already torn down? i dont really want to mess with pistons or cams yet, seems unnecessary, i could go for like 400 450 but that would be max.

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Just take a deep breath and calm your worries. This is NOT a piece of shit Datsun motor like you're used to. There should almost be competitions to see who can do modifications without reaching 400hp using JZ engines. Deal with the valve stuff, you can only change one cam anyway since you are vvti so don't even worry about that shit, change your head gasket and go have fun.

 

 

Also, go buy the Tomei power kit turbo upgrade thingy if you ever do anything.

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thanks man, this project has been stressing me out. i noticed the quality difference pretty quickly. the engineering that went into the head on this thing is amazing. just waiting on parts now, maybe a month off on the motor and by then hopefully ill have brakes and coils sorted out.

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So what did the importer do about th shitty compression? These engines in good shape will take 700whp abuse. Also, you can change both cams. Money makes that happen. But the tomei turbo will get you in the 400whp range

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small update so you guys dont delete my account or something. finally got the motor to a better machine shop, now i get to play the waiting game again.

 

also for those who saw my thread in the Serial Nine section, Gerard has sent me the missing parts for my coilover kit, as well as some other parts, apparent he was having troubles with his suppliers. hopefully in the near future he will be able to get the business side of S9 to a level that matches the quality of their parts. my coilovers look great and i cannot wait to get them on the car.

 

also, at Kyle.. importer did nothing, claimed that the shop that did my compression test did it wrong and said that all motors from japan look like mine.

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Guest gameface

i would be suspect of the tester(i mean their compression tester being off, not the user) when its 90 across the board. My initial compression test got messed but because I used a fucked battery(didn't know at the time) had 70 in a couple cyls, 170 in others, 130... with a good battery it was 170 across the board.

 

Always possible to get a bad motor from an importer, sucks but the motors we get are basically from the wrecker. Its pretty gay the company you used isn't manning up. Probably a good idea to recondition that motor, looks like it was neglected(carbon buid up on inside). Nice work man.

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yeah, i just had some bad luck. im not too pissed though, at least i dont have a badass jzx to distract me from my homework. also since the 64th i am trying to make some extra money for the build by doing some farming ;) so soon there may be real updates.

 

slowest build ever is still being slow...

 

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here is my motor, looks a little better i think.

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It really depends on how long the motor sat before you got it and tested it. Compression tests suck anyway. We do leakdown at work. Just this week we got an engine in that had been sitting for nearly a year, the cylinder walls were so dry it leakdown tested at 85%. Once lubricated and turned through , it dropped to less than 10%, and compression tested at 225psi. Your motor looked a little gummy, but nothing that makes me think rebuild time.

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so i bet everyone either forgot i exist or thought i sold my motor/cars. still got both x7s, and my motor is almost done after over a year in the machine shop. next time i will take my stuff to denver to get done.. lesson learned. on the upside, ive got new pistons, decked block, valve springs and all ARP fasteners. it has been very stressful having my motor in pieces for so long and being a novice mechanic, but i took lots of pictures and i have a few helpful friends so it shouldn't be too hard. also, with harvest time nearing i should have some extra funding for the car ;)

 

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a couple questions if you guys don't mind:

 

when setting the timing, how should the vvti cam be positioned? someone said that it will auto-center or something, someone said to angle cam pins to 12 oclock (whatever that means). some other person said "There are 2 marks on each gear. Dot and slot. You want slot. Also number one cylinder will will have the lobes facing up 45 deg towards each other" i don't have my motor to look at, but this doesn't sound like it pertains to the cam position at all.

 

i acquired a 7mgte with a brand new ct26. i have read mixed things about the difference between the ct15b and the ct26, is it a viable replacement untill i can find a better steel wheel turbo?

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ct26 has a different flange pretty sure... never tried personally though just by look the ct15b ex inlet is smaller

 

Just align the vvti cam gear like normal, without oil pressure itll be loose and move 30ish degrees either way. Even without a working solenoid it will be at standard timing when started. The gear face itself doesn't move from its timed position so don't worry about the loose part - its just the adjustment range. For marks it looks like yours are already marked in your first post. Crank sprocket also has an obvious cast in marking. After timing it turn it over a handful of cycles to be sure there's no v 2 p contact.< obligatory disclaimer

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thanks man!

 

i just saw tojis thread... makes me so excited for my car(s) :wub: made me laugh though because i have a aw11 vent sitting in my garage.

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