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Guest JoooeOne

my dream of drifting with some naked chicks on the back

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you are doing so damn good dude

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Jose, long duration cams will do shit for turbo lag, if not make it worse.

 

And you don't need to ballance your jz to spin it faster, it's already damn close as is, remember it's a Toyota, not a chevy.

I had no issues with turning my stock 7M to 8500 before I put the built engine in.

6500-7000 is stupid slow for a modern 4-valve engine.

You would get more out of adjustable cam gears, and getting the rev limit bumped up.

 

Stop being retarded, and listening to bull shit chevy bench racers, and faggotbook (or is the facebook?).

Pick up some real engine books, and learn what makes things work, and buff up on your math.

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I always thought longer duration meant your lobe was bigger.

 

Not that I disagree with anything you are doing, but I just took my Junkyard NA 2Jj block to the machine shop.

He recommended balancing it, which I agree'd with since I was gonna be mostly fagboy "drifting" the car. but it turns out the rotating mass even after 20+ years was still perfectly good. He even though my crank pulley (which balances it self) and my clutch setup on and balanced it with those. He said he didn't have to touch everything it was all already good to go.

 

To be honest I didn't want any work done, but when I took the head off there was a good amount of pitting so I had to get it decked. which means it all has to come apart anyways. I ended up getting new bearings and rings too. But money wise I'm more into my clutch than I am into block

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My lobe gets bigger & longer when I look at your nude mothers :-)

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gordo, you should demand mom nudes before you spread your cressida wisdom to anyone

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Jose, long duration cams will do shit for turbo lag, if not make it worse.

 

And you don't need to ballance your jz to spin it faster, it's already damn close as is, remember it's a Toyota, not a chevy.

I had no issues with turning my stock 7M to 8500 before I put the built engine in.

6500-7000 is stupid slow for a modern 4-valve engine.

You would get more out of adjustable cam gears, and getting the rev limit bumped up.

 

Stop being retarded, and listening to bull shit chevy bench racers, and faggotbook (or is the facebook?).

Pick up some real engine books, and learn what makes things work, and buff up on your math.

any good books that you could recommend?

I've allways wondered how 4 and 6 cylinder guys at formula dick can achieve so much hp and be so responsive but then it hit me there fucking using corn juice of course....... BTW cd00x swap is coming closer I just got the bell housing shave 1/2 i just need to go and pick up my friends 2j block and take it to the cnc

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They aren't running ethanol, they run race fuel. And Fredric Aasbo (only one with a 4cyl afaik) supplements with nitrous. The ones with jz's run fully built motors with real management, not reground oem cams to try and spin up a cummins turbo faster.

Have fun fitting that massive trans in your x8's tiny fucking tunnel btw.

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Since you're dealing with a 4-valve engine, you might look for some ment for modern bikes.

Most of mine are 30-40 years old, and I have no idea if they are still in print.

Perterson's 'Basic Cams, Valves & Exhaust Systems is damn good, and so is anything concerning performance engines from them.

But if they are not around any longer, you will have to look at other sources.

 

Just to show how pussy a 7k red line is, the Malta 7M powered dragster turns 10,500 rpm through the lights.

The HKS Mk3 did the same (also 7M powered).

Of course they had after market rods & pistons.

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So much hate in here is funny as hell.

Seriously Joe, since you have lousy ass gas, running the meth-injection is kind of a bandaid for what you are trying to do. Does it work? sure, but adding cams to a fairly capable engine with decent cams already is a waste of time and money. It would be a different story if you had the Non=vvti head.

The point of cams with a larger lift is to force more air in without bumping up boost levels. The longer duration will do similar results but affects timing too. A proper regrind, would be to take some massive fucking lift cams, and have them cut down and widened to increase the duration, but with the aftermarket being what it is, that seems like a waste of money.

If it were me, I would leave those cams in, do some basic head porting, get larger injectors, a better turbo that wont be just a top end power car with a lazy wheel.

Fuck it all, it's your car to play with, but some of the guys that have been around awhile actually know what they are talking about.

When I dropped my usdm 2jz turbo cams in, it widened out my torque curve a ton without adding more boost (just gave me more usable power for longer RPM's).

Off my shitty little soap box

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I feel with proper sheet metal work you could cover it back up and lay carpet back down.Where there is a will there is a way

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Sheet metal will not replace the structural rib that was cut out.......

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yeah but you can at least make it look decent haha.

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I put the carpet back down, none of the stuff between the two sides of the center console from the handbrake past the shifter fits though, tunnel is too tall, has to be cut out, including the little pop out "rolling tray" under the handbrake.

 

And what the fuck ever, theres no way around having to cut out that rib without more time money and resources than I have to build a shifter that operates through that opening on top of the trans. Car will be fine with a little less torsional rigidity.

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I'd be interested to see what Gordon would do if he actually tried to put one of these in. Possibly the only old fuck I know that hasn't lost those creative juices.

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I thought that I made it perfectly clear that there would be no way in hell I would ever use one, due to the un-performance ratios...

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Kinda like the z33 trans.

Nah shit ratios for sure

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Still better than an r154.... As much as I want a quaife box I don't feel like spending 8500 pounds when our dollar is worth literally half...

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There was a Quaife 15G 6-speed sequential on eBay last week, that went for about 2k.

I didn't go after it because a little research showed that they were not so good, with gear selection problems.

Their 60G is the good one.

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I've seen worse, but it's been a while.

Kind of matches that engine mount.

 

Will be waiting to see what cork-screws first,

The engine mounts, or the extended crank bolts going through the spacer.......

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