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Bill

Tuning with an FCD.

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Ok, I want some real input on this. this seems to be one of the hardest things to get any real info about.

 

i have the driftmotion 60-1 57 trim turbo, and afc neo, 440 aristo injectors and a tial 44mm with a .8bar spring (11.6psi) and an EVC4 boost controller.

 

i want to run 1 bar (14.5psi) with an oem jzx90 ecu.

 

i have both a new turbosmart FCD-1 pneumatic FCD and an old hks fcd.

 

what the hell is the best way to be able to run at least up to or slightly over 14.5psi (1 bar).

 

 

 

 

i'm thinking put the pneumatic FCD-1 in the map hose, fool the map slightly to lean the motor like 10% then use the AFC to tweak the fuel curve?

 

or can i get 1 bar with the afc without even installing any fcd if i only want 1 bar?

 

input? without saying i need a powerfc. i need to work with what i have or just run under boost cut.

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Man I think I have a thread bookmarked at home from supramania where aphxero laced up some tard on how to stay out of fuel cut with the safc. Something about 10% this or that, I'll try to find it. Iirc the dude ran a single and 440s, sn was mk3tatoos or some shit.

 

 

Or apxhero could lace you up too maybe...

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that's what i'm thinking. i haven't installed either type of fcd yet.

 

and yeah i already read a lot of that shit but nobody ever made it clear what actually works.

 

i know you can use an afc with an fcd, i have an old fcon with the fcd in the harness, so it's not impossible, but if the neo will let me deal without an fcd then great.

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well i'm going to wire the electronic fcd in anyway, try to tune with the neo only, then play with the fcd if i can't get the boost i want.

 

bottom line is i just want to understand this shit.

 

sorry if it seems like a retarded topic but i've really never seen any real talk about this other than what might work etc..

 

like it seems that everyone has different factory boost cuts for different ecus? different turbos, breathing, exhaust all contributing to where it cuts etc.. i've heard that it's like 13.5, but some say it's 15..

 

not trying to be an asshat, i just want to go tune the car once and fucking leave that shit alone. (read, i just want a safe tune so i can get to driving, but i don't want to run under 15psi because the 60-1 57 trim turbo will probably hate life at anything less)

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dont quote me on this but i think what kyle is talking about is that when you move to bigger injectors and a Safc or similar device to pull fuel on the stock ecu, it automatically removes(or moves it to higher boost level) the fuel/boost cut. reason is that that the safc changes the map sensor input(voltage) to the ecu.

 

some one correct me if im wrong.

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i wired in an afc and still smashed fuel cut like it was my job... but on the other hand i have an afc 1 and stock injectors OG status

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break it down.

 

untuned motor with bigger injectors runs rich but hits stock boost cut.

 

afc leans out the fueling (tells the ecu there is less map pressure, run less fuel mr. ecu please)

 

so now we have a lower signal going to the ecu and proper fuel right? so if you bring up the boost you should have more room to add more fuel until you hit a new boost cut that should be higher? right? like 15psi?

 

so with an afc neo that can play with the signal up to 50%, could you not put in 550+ injectors, tune it and still have almost no boost cut?

 

but would the fcd just fuck up the signal and make you have to tune it again with the afc to correct it? how the fuck can the fcd work? i know it does for some people i just don't get it!!!?

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myoriginal plan was bigger injectors, safc, magnafuel fuel pressure regulator. I would think you could manipulate the ecu pretty good with those three things, As soon as I'm up and running right I might try this before the emanage still

 

bill, you have an adjustable fpr?

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when you're telling the map that there is less pressure that there actually is, you're also advancing your timing...not good.

 

you're better off to adjust your fuel pressure to adjust the fuel curve and just leave the ecu be.

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^ yeap. as you pull fuel the afc advances timing, so the bigger injectors you get the more fuel you have to pull. careful with that timing!

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I recommend letting the stock ECU run the show with no piggybacks or gay bs electronics, and just run under boost cut. Adjust fuel press. to trim fuel.

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^ that's how my single is run. stock ecu. going to go standalone when i got cash to blow. until then i have my boost gauge set at warning just before 1bar and play footsie with the throttle to stay just under fuel cut

 

under 3K rpm sucks balls but i can live with it since i know i won't blow shit up.

 

bill what's keeping you from going standalone?

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well, i have a stock aristo 2jzgte auto with greddy BCC and im hitting fuel cut under 10 psi. It feels like im on the rev limiter and the rpm's just bounce. I have already swapped the fuel pump with the denso supra TT. would i need to remove and/or replace the fuel pressure regulator?

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dudes you dont add that much timing correcting for 440cc. I used to correct for 550cc. If youre worried run better gas.

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well, i have a stock aristo 2jzgte auto with greddy BCC and im hitting fuel cut under 10 psi. It feels like im on the rev limiter and the rpm's just bounce. I have already swapped the fuel pump with the denso supra TT. would i need to remove and/or replace the fuel pressure regulator?

 

 

 

sounds like you got a differnet problem. check plug gap and insulate the coilpacks. should be hitting cut on thos around 14 15 ish. and it would feel like a hard jolt. and i believe there also might be something with the auto trans that makes the car do that.

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yes i have a magnafuel fpr, this is all the input i was looking for from you guys.

 

 

 

so basically, the only way to maintain good safe timing and fueling is:

 

play with fuel pressure while the car is boosting up to the 11.8psi of the wastegate spring.

 

bring up the boost with the EVC4 slowly till i start to hit boost cut while tuning with the fpr.

 

then just leave it like that? really the only way i can make this setup work properly, fooling with FCD just going to fuck up the timing ect..?

 

like this input.

 

 

and no i'm not doing management because the car is just getting made to run well so i can just drive it. don't want to spend money at the moment. and to be honest i've been building the car so long and not driving it, i really don't care much for power, just reliability and drivability for the time being.

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okay I'll spell it out. No FCD, 38-40psi FP at idle, -12 to 15% correction, 1.0 boost and go from there. I can go off on an explaination about it citing experience, testing, reasons behind all of it but I'm old which means I'm tired.

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sounds like you got a differnet problem. check plug gap and insulate the coilpacks. should be hitting cut on thos around 14 15 ish. and it would feel like a hard jolt. and i believe there also might be something with the auto trans that makes the car do that.

im using the ngk 4644, with no gap adjustment...

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I like to wire the fcd in between the afc and the ecu so you can't hit boost cut. As for tune I feel the jz is a litle fat naturaly and with a wide band you can do most of your afc fuel trimming in closed loop in low throtle settings from idle to 4000 rpm and zero all the way to rev limit. As for hi throtle I like to set my throtle percentages low 69 and hi 70 percent so the hi throtle settings are only for when you excide 4000 rpm or 70 percent throtle. With this settup it will be a litle fat up top with zero corection but it can't hit boost cut and since you are not altering the map signal it is not pulling any timing. So now to tune the hi throtle I like to use a dyno so I don't run out of road. If it's fat I pull fuel pressure or add boost to consume the extra fuel until I get to the highist boost I'm comfortible to run. I like to see an afr fliping between 14.3 to 14.7 when in closed loop and no greater tha 12 for low boost and no greater than 11 for hi boost so the higher the boost the lower the afr. Good luck!

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thanks for your time guys. bad topic i know.

 

 

at least now there's at least one thread on the internet with all the different thoughts on this all combined together like one big fucken mishmash. lol.

 

 

I will be going with fpr, no fcd, 1bar and afc tune. that's what i thought would work, see what happens.

 

i never got to put much time into tuning so i'm not ready for a learning curve, just want the car to run proper and drive it before it snows here..

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There isn't much to learn I have seen 490 whp with safc, fcd, fpr, a big single and on stock cams. For a bar of boost I would use an fcd too as it will keep the map value as close to boost cut with out hitting the cut. So if just under cut the ecu is pulling as much timing as it can. Why even bother trying to tune to this map value from 4000 rpm till rev limit with the safc every time you want to chang your boost level to achive the same map value the fcd voltage clamp does automaticly. Safc tune like this vvvvvvv

 

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?114383-safc-hi-and-lo-throttle-setting

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Hey this may be a stupid.question but.could you use a fcd to gimp your car? Like make.fuel cut.come sooner?

Because I'm shipping.my car up and I don't want the.matson guys fucking with my car.

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