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JoeTheHook

1j 2j guys Switching to synthetic?

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Well its time for an oil change on my 1j. My last few oil changes since my swap have been with conventional penzoil 5w 30 and the car runs great. occasionally burns oil as any turbo would. Now i was thinking i wanted to switch to synthetic Rotella 5w 40. I was also thinking of using an Amsoil engine flush ( http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0CCAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amsoil.com%2Fstorefront%2Fflsh.aspx&rct=j&q=amsoil%20engine%20flush&ei=vQojTpHPFMjj0gHu-qjFAw&usg=AFQjCNG2W0qsB8X9ebHxqwnBJeSNabfq6Q&cad=rja ) before switching to the synthetic oil. Does anybody have experience doing this, or a preference of if the 1j / 2j s like synthetic or dino oil? My engine has about 60,000 miles on the clock and i drive her hard. Ive searched this, but most of the posts related come up on stupidmania and the topics become seriously off topic. My only fears would be oil leaking through seals upon the initial switch and maybe losing compression ( but i doubt it ). Opinions/ experience.... go

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I run Motul 300V 15w50 on my JZ's. 5w is too light.

 

Even on the n/a JZ's i run 10w40

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seafoam is really bad for your shit... DONT DO IT... Pull the valve covers and see what the inside of the head looks like... when i got my motor set it was super clean when i pulled the pan and covers.... so if your shit looks clean just change the oil... id use a heavier oil though... 10w30... 10w40

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i run mobil 5/30 in my 2j. i'm about to switch to eneos or amsoil though. i work at an oil change and its retarded how shitty most off the shelf synthetics are.

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^ in my personal experiance ive seen motors get alot of build up from the shit they put in synthetics... especially mobile1

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I use whatever the fuck. Usually castrol. It doesnt matter much if you change it often.

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Same here, I don't really care what brand or whatever. I use what ever 10w30 is on sale. I change it when I feel like it and my car runs great. I'm at 46,000 miles since the swap with no issues. Turbos don't smoke or anything.

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diesel oil anyone?

 

mobil delvac 15w40?

 

we used that at the shop before when the S15 was still SR powered, theyre using Motul on the LS3 right now.

 

was planning on using that later on the 2j. like $10 - $13/gallon.

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I know a few people running diesel oil... never really looked into it though... care to explain why you would run it?

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i stay away from heavier weight oils simply because most engine wear is caused right at start up, and a thick oil takes longer to work its way through the engine, thus causing more time when the engine runs without proper lubrication. i like 5w30, but i could see how on a 1j or older 2j, it may cause problems as those engines were likely designed with looser tolerances and heavier weight oils in mind.

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Guest THUG

I run amsoil synthetic. Im pretty sure you want a synthetic on a turbo'd motor or any high horsepower motor for the oil build up, and breakdown

 

with conventional oil + turbo engine. Conventional oil will break down faster and sit in the turbo instead of recirculating back to the oil pan. what this does is just makes start ups a little harder on the turbo. Where as if you had a synthetic and it sits in the turbo, it won't break down.

 

 

Same thing goes for engine lubrication. Conventional oil breaks down faster under constant wear and tear and under high heat, causing more friction and more metal on metal contact, which can cause the wear of parts that need lubrication and can wear down metal parts causing metal shavings to be in the oil which is not good for obvious reasons.

 

It surprises me that some people on here have such high horsepower engines and yet run "whatever is on sale". Now im sure the guys that have done up engines are running "proper" oils. I recommend anyone to spend the little bit extra and go synthetic and see the difference. You might not notice it after the first oil change, but you should notice it after the second.

 

 

As for seafoam. If the engine is running good and stuff, i don't see a problem using it. I used it on an sr20det motor with less than 100,000 kms on it, it didn't smoke much, so i knew it was clean, but then i had the piece of mind that i had a good clean engine.

 

I also did it on my rb25 that had less than 100,000 kms as well and it didn't smoke much either, knew it was clean.

 

 

If seafoam is used right and done like once a year. I believe that engines can last a long time.

 

I know of some cases where people have used it on engines with 300,000 kms or more and the seafoam worked so well that the engine didn't run very good after. This is because after abuse and no cleaning for 300, 000 kms, Gunk and carbon build up was holding the engine together and seafoam came in and wiped it right clean, causing valves and pistons to not seal properly

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i run this stuff.. eneos 0w-50. stuff is pretty awesome.

 

and since we're on the topic of oil, i use a standard oem toyota oil filter. i use one of slightly larger capacity, i forget which toyota it's off of

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Hmm im definitley going to switch to synthetic probrobly a 10w30 at least untill the winter. The only think im wondering is if i should use seafoam for the head and injectors and amsoils engine cleaner to cycle and clean the bottom end.. any opinions on the amsoil oil flush?? maybe i should just do the oil..

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i picked up some european 5W-40 blend amsoil, enough for two changes. should do the trick good enough.

 

usually for any other car i drive it's literally whatever synthetic jug is cheap at walmart, quaker, modil1, doesn't really matter to me unless the car is doing something to deserve good oil.

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all that crap is snake oil. some of these responses are seriously retarded. mark and matt are on point. hate your engine, it will last to 500k miles. treat it with all kinds of products "designed to enhance performance" and it will most certainly crap out on you.

 

in the 1j I've got a mobil 1 filter b/c im too cheap for royal purple and k&n and too smart to run fram. oil is conventional pennzoil 10w-40. 0w or 5w is too thin for you southern californians. your ambient temps never ever get that low to need it.

 

just for reference my 1978 yamaha calls for summer 20w-40 which isn't readily available, and winter 10w-30. the owners manual even gives temperature ranges (yes, i got the freaking owners manual with it...booya!) guess what i put in? 10w-40. because modern oil is all season.

 

by the way joe, this is a general topic. does not need to be chassis specific....

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I run synthetic because I'm lazy as fuck and never change my oil. every 10,000km or so. I usually stick to Castrol Syntec because it's the cheapest synthetic around. a lot of the time I'll change a filter in between oil changes for extra peace of mind. haven't had a problem yet.

 

A buddy of mine is a tech at a high end euro shop that services most of local porsche club's track cars and he swears any decent synthetic is fine for 12000-14000km between oil changes. He runs his customers used oil in his car after it comes out of their track cars. He calls it "mixed grade" because it's literally a mix of any synthetic engine oil out of his customers high end shit that gets oil changes after 500-5000km when it's barely past 1/3 of its life.

 

Diesel oil is supposedly good for older tech engines (70s and 80s shit) running higher horsepower. My friend runs it in his boosted AE86 with good results so far. There is a lot more detergent in it to deal with all the carbon and crap that diesels produce. I think there's more sulphur for better lubrication too.

 

One of my dad's old co-worker used to always say "oily oily all the same" then he destroyed his engine running hydraulic oil he stole from work in it. The scary thing is the guy was an aircraft maintenance tech and should have known better... :|

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Rotella 5-40 syn (blue jug).

 

Added benefit: Same oil for the truck & car.

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+1 for Rotella 5-40 T6, I used to run this in my sti and it really cut down on oil consumption. Diesel oils are great cuz their specifically designed for high compression turbo engines.

 

They also have higher zddp contents and other stuff which makes them much better and lubrication but also ends up making them much more expensive than your average oils. www.bobistheoilguy.com is an alright resource for learning more about oils and shit.

 

I also bought a whole bunch of Mobil1 TDT (Turbo diesel truck) 5w40 oil from Napa Autoparts in June cuz they had a pretty good promotion going on. I'm hoping to try this out in the 1j and see if it does anything runs quieter or smoother.

 

The last thing I wanted to mention is some of the stuff like seafoam or Marvel mystery oil can mess up fuel injectors if you run it through the fuel, sr20 guys pretty much swear that any of these cleaners or detergents ruin fuel injectors. Like others have said, I think it really depends on the condition of the engine. You might end up loosening up a lot of small sludge particles which could group together and clog passageways.

 

There's also a product called AutoRX or something like that which is more of a multi-stage process idk if it's all b.s. or not but it supposedly loosens the grime over time with "gradual cleaning". Might be something to look into.

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mobil1 and RP are shams. under hotter temps they get way too thin.

 

if you DD, castrol syntec or conventional. syntec is probably the best consumer level off the shelf synthetic. i just use conventional for my DD's though, because its half the cost, and it doesn't behave like its not supposed to like some synthetic's can. i'd run syntec if i ran a synthetic again, but i don't think i ever will. especially not in an older engine. none of my cars have enjoyed synthetic oils.

 

if its a dedicated track car, valvoline VR-1, Amsoil, or if you have the deep pockets, Brad Penn.

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i ran mobil 1 5 30 in my na 2j and my 1j, no problems. 2j had over 260xxx on it, and i beat the fuck out of it for its last 80xxx miles i put on it. i use it in my 1j for about a year noww, no smoking nothing, just leaky valve cover gaskets. i drive this up to 10xxx cause im a lazy asshole. since its summer tho ima do some 10 30. what evers clever, should of just stuck to conventional, aslong as you change it pretty frequently you should be fine.

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I just put in penzoil platinum 10w30 and the car seems to really like it. The only thing is i cant tell if its leaking or not. I have some oil puddles under the car... but i also spilled alot when i slipped with the bottle so the intake manifold is soaked in oil :( .. Ill get an update in a few days. Also the synthetic seems to not like the dipstick if i pull it quick it will be at half level but if i wait like 20 seconds it will be full ??

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The whole point of diesel oil is the high zinc content. Royal purple and valvoline z1 have a high zinc content. Personally I run mobil ome 15-50 in all my race cars and its never done me wrong. I also stick with the factory oil filter. Did you know toyota runs factory oil filters on their f1 cars. If its good enough for them it will do for me.

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