Jump to content
Guest Fidel Cashflo

Trap Star 1JZ-GTE UCF20 build.

Recommended Posts

Guest Fidel Cashflo

Pics of said shifter? PM me, I may be interested if it'll help you out.

 

I have another lined up for $250, PM me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Skitzo

Bomb diggity. I like the left field build.

 

Why did you choose the 1J instead of a 2J?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

I finally got my gas mig welder working properly, so yeah, started shaving the trunk emblem holes. I really haven't been motivated to work on the car since its close to 100 degrees out every day, and recently my garage has become infested with black/brown widow spiders? Killed 7 a couple days ago, just one days worth?

Shavingemblems2.jpg

shavingemblems3.jpg

Also after getting the welder working me and a buddy fabbed up this second bracket so I can unbolt the bracket from the Chassis and the ebrake from the bracket. I?m looking forward to grabbing it in front of assholes on the highway. Oh yeah and while sliding and what not too.

Ebrakebracket.jpg

hydro.jpg

hydro2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

I chose the 1J because of the capability to rev higher and the price!

 

I ditched these dumb 245/40/18's and picked up a pair of 225/40/18 Nankang NS-1?s, these tires stretch really nicely. I got a deal on 3 Tenzo R 18x8 wheels with new rubber on them. $60 for 3 wheels with good rubber whuhhhh? So I just put the tires on the battles, may sell the Tenzo?s or keep em around for some decent spares.

tirestretchagainyuhhh.jpg

I took some pictures of the guttage.

gutted.jpg

gutted2.jpg

gutted3.jpg

gutted4.jpg

Gutted5.jpg

I?m planning on gutting the door skin on the rear doors to get the weight out of them, probably remove the regulators and weld tabs to hold the glass up. I also need to relocate the pre-amp under the passenger seat, I need to find somewhere to put that. I also need to relocate the rear door speakers, unless I just make brackets for them to run them on the rear doors after gutting em, Idk yet.

I also need to figure out what I?m doing for front door panels, probably sheet aluminum riveted on and the relocate window switches to a fuse/switch board.

SOON to be gutted:

I need to make a heel up plate, since the LS has the frame rails running through its interior. These cars are bulletproof!

Probably going to get a piece of 16ga steel and gusset it and then figure out how to mount it in the car, maybe weld it in? I don?t know yet. Something like this maybe. I?ll see what I have lying around before I go out and spend money to do it.

heelupplateandtiltonfloormountedpedals.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i want to see more of this. if you don't get bitten by black widows.

 

lately your car has been giving me ideas for a new daily. really good ideas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

Haha I'm really hoping that I don't get bitten by one. THEY'RE EVERYWHERE. It's ridiculous, I've killed probably 20-30 this week, tons of egg sacks too. Working on my car is a hazard haha.

 

I'm glad to see its rubbing off on you. These cars are awesome! Double wishbone suspension, 4 piston aluminum front brakes, full cell with built in surge tank... Its a race car from the factory! Factory weight for a 95-96 is supposed to be around 3600-3650. About the same as an SC300, but there's a lot more gutting that can be done on this chassis. I'm going to gut the rear door skins out, front door panels are coming off.

 

And to those of you that want me to stay 1UZ, saying that the 1JZ is a heavier motor.

 

I read somewhere (I don't know this to be completely accurate).

1UZ- 495lbs

1JZ- 596lbs

 

Wow, so just 100 lbs? I'll change that with:

ABS Delete

Aluminum 1 piece

Lightweight flywheel

R154

Stainless exhaust

No Cats/ Mufflers

 

Aluminum piping/clamps and couplers don't add much. Intercooler is sub 20lbs.

 

I'll be cutting off the exhaust today, all of the bolts rounded off with just a little force, sweet. Well I have a guy who's buying my cats, two pre-cats and one large catalytic converter (close to $180 for all 3).

 

Driveshaft is coming off, tranny mount is gonna come off, loosen motor mounts... I'm going to pull the "problem" (1UZ).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a awesome fucking build!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

not telling you what to do, but what you've found isn't 100% accurate.

 

that JZ weight is minus transmission.

 

that UZ weight is WITH trans.

 

get the facts right first. you're dead set on a JZ and no one's gonna change your mind at this point so go for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and that still doesn't take into account the overhang and height of the jz compared to the uz. AKA where the weight is in the chassis. that said, I've talked to a few dudes that have gone from sr to jz in a 240 and they really didn't notice the difference in weight.

 

so either way. don't care. just make it work right and post a ton of pictures and video. this, i have to see.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

Ok, well after a little research I found this:

http://www.lextreme.com/1jzgtel.htm

 

217kg = 478lbs...

Thats without turbo's, so lets say another 40lbs for turbos?

Plus weight of clutch probably 20-25lbs.

 

R154 is said to weight 46kg dry. So 101lbs.

http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/pages/technical/R154.htm

 

 

1UZ+R154 weight = 486lbs

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/32264-complete-engine-weights-table/

 

So subtract the 101lbs for the R154, 385lbs.

However the A341 transmission is said to weigh over 150lbs dry without torque converter.

 

Plus whatever a torque converter weighs, 20-30lbs?

 

I'd say:

1UZ-FE with A341 (560ish lbs)

1JZ-GTE with R154 (640ish lbs)

 

So less than a 100lb difference, no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

again, no one's gonna argue that. not a chance. but logically you have to consider a 5spd UZ swap vs. a 1J+r154 swap. the UZ having less peak torque than the 1J allows you to soundly use a W58 instead of a R154. a 1UZ with a W58 is 469lbs. so in reality, you're tossing away the possibility of being down almost 100 lbs as opposed to being up 100lbs. thats a net of ~200lbs difference. i can't remember if you said you're going to cage the car or not, but if you add a cage and a 1J, you're almost canceling out your weight loss from gutting.

 

now the 1JZ may make better peak numbers, but the torque curve on the V8 is so much smoother and linear. you have the power available to toss the rear end out from 1K rpm all the way to redline if you so wish. i know you've been driving the car with the automatic and are used to driving it with that power sucker of a transmission with engine troubles on top of that. I can understand why you feel the v8 sucks. but realize that that transmission sucks up nearly 20whp with its massive rotational mass. a 5spd on a UZ is a game changer.

 

it IS too bad that too many drifters are using V8's to do the driving for them these days, so i can understand where some of the animosity towards them comes from.

 

Again, i'm not trying to change your mind anymore because you've already clearly made it up and you have your heart set on a 1JZ, and that's awesome. its a great engine. it just seems like you've branded the UZ with a shit stamp in your mind and i'm trying to shed a little bit of light on it for you to fully understand what you're giving up, especially since you initially stated you're trying to get the car as light as possible and are going with a 550lb ironblock L6 as opposed to a 400lb aluminum block v8 which seems counter productive.

 

that said, I've talked to a few dudes that have gone from sr to jz in a 240 and they really didn't notice the difference in weight.

 

they may not notice the difference, but it'll be there. you need a lot of suspension re-working to deal with that kind of difference in weight positioning.

 

just watching cars that have gone from a KA to an RB20, which is considerably smaller than an SR to a JZ, is a huge difference. and most guys won't notice it. the biggest thing you'll notice is drift initiation and tight transition. you'll see the nose dive much more with the extra over hang and it causes the rear to be too light and snap over. first thing i notice with L6 240 drift cars is that they do well on the banks because they now have the power, but in tight transitions the cars are so much more difficult to drive, and much more erratic. very unbalanced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like its coming together brah.

 

FL representttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this thread makes me miss miles and his car... whatever happened to that dude, anyone know?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

Thanks BG, just wait a few more weeks til I get some shots of the EZ harness install, painting the interior and bay, Custom brake lines, custom dash bar with hydraulic reverse swing clutch pedal and an awesome swap! I can't wait.

 

Miles traded cars with a local driver, an SR S13 hatch, then he put a Zenki front on it, painted it, and now kills it more than he did in the Cress ( My opinion).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, Miles and the Cressida just didn't get along on the track. He rips in his S-chassis.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

Yea, Miles and the Cressida just didn't get along on the track. He rips in his S-chassis.

When it was JZ, he seemed to have driven better with it. I dunno. Then got a UZ and it seemed like he drove differently, V8's suck. He definitely rips in the S13 though haha.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

Got my 1JZ today, drove to JDM of Orlando.

 

$1000 no ecu, front sump auto motor, very clean.

 

1jzfinally.jpg

 

Still need:

Bell Housing

1JZ Flywheel

Aristo Mounts

ECU

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i should have some aristo mounts kicking around from my 2j, id basically send them to you for the cost of shipping/packaging/ and a little time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

I also picked up a large front mount intercooler this weekend, an ACT Heavy Duty R154 Pressure Plate, and a Walbro fuel pump (FREE). So far I have a $140 into my whole clutch setup ACT HD with 7k miles, getting disc repadded this week. I still need to find a JZ bellhousing and a 1JZ flyhwheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

Well I picked up my motor from JDM Orlando, as I said in my last post. I got home and realized? Wait a second, I don?t have an igniter or Map Sensor.

I gave them a call and they told me they didn?t have any map sensors, but they did have an igniter, so they shipped me one. I found a map sensor for $50 locally (JDM 2JZ-GTE ). I just found a soarer 4 plug ECU for $50 shipped, picked that up!

1jzmotor.jpg

1jzmotor2.jpg

I borrowed my buddies engine stand so I can do all of the maintenance on the engine before it goes in.

I?m replacing:

-2JZ Water Pump/Pulley

-2JZ Valve cover gaskets

-2JZ Front/Rear Main seals

-2JZ Serpentine belt

-Timing Belt

-Oil pan seals (RTV)

First things first? GTFO auto trans!

autotrans.jpg

Went to my buddy Ray?s shop and picked up this beast! Huge front mount, over 40 inches from end tank to endtank! Core is 24x 11x3. Should be fine for my power goal.

bigfrontmount.jpg

I decided I was going to try to cut out the front bumper support to fit the front mount, this was no easy task lol

makingintercoolersfit.jpg

I ended up getting an OEM Toyota flywheel for $220 locally! I also got some flywheel bolts for $30 picked up locally, brand new OEM Toyota as well!

act2.jpg

I picked up an ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate from a buddy of mine. Really nice pressure plate. Should be perfect for my power goal as well!

act.jpg

Called up Summit Racing, ordered a Cherry Bomb 3? turbo muffler 87719. These things sound great on turbo cars. A buddy has one his SR20 S13, and it sounds really nice. These are really quiet!!!

muffler.jpg

I took off the ac fittings and noticed that they are the same on the 1UZ and 1JZ! So no modification of the AC lines needed. Also I don?t think it will be a problem making the powersteering high pressure line. I just need to find a power steering reservoir.

bay.jpg

bay2.jpg

I got a pair of solid aluminum motor mounts for $35 shipped, hopefully these things get the job done.

mounts.jpg

Awe? Brothers.

brothers.jpg

Only thing left to buy now is:

1JZ R154 Bellhousing

Driveshaft (Local)

Clutch pedal/master/slave line

Fluids/seals/gaskets (Local)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2jz valve cover gaskets won't work but the 7m's just thought I would chime in on that before you where like fuck these aren't working

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Fidel Cashflo

2jz valve cover gaskets won't work but the 7m's just thought I would chime in on that before you where like fuck these aren't working

I was told that the 7M's didnt work and that the 2JZ ones did work LOL. So which is it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

×