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Cyrious

Midnight Battle Station

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I've actually been looking into it. Once I get the proper measurements I may just order up some 3sge shimless buckets. Apparently this will remove 12 or so ounces and translate to a smoother running head at higher rpms. If I ever decide to cam it , this would be ideal.

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It was a gongshow to re shim the head but now it's done.

shims.jpg

 

head.jpg

 

2 Years later , several thousand dollars, countless fights with my girlfriend and hours slaving away, throwing tools , feeling like the project was a big fuck hole of fail....

 

 

..... It was finally finished.

alldone.jpg

 

It runs amazing. I Put a new IACV on, and it idles bang on 1000rpm. I wired my tach exactly how aphexero's thread said too, it works perfect. I cleaned up the wiring in the car. Right now i'm running the exhaust straight out the down pipe. My neighbors love me.

 

I went and pulled twin electric fans from an altima and wired them up. They fit perfectly. One of the top bolt holes lines up perfectly and the rad drain cog, helps hold it into place. Other than that, all you have to do is drill a couple of small holes on the side of the shroud to line up with the holes on the side of the rad, and pull a few zip ties. Cheap $50.00 solution and it makes my rad 'stay frosty.'

 

The only concern I have is that the clutch is slipping when I boost around 9lbs at 5k rpms. I'm worried that I didn't break the clutch in properly at first, I couldn't hold back and did a few hard pulls with it at first on a brand new 6 puck and flywheel. I know, that was really stupid.

 

I'm going to try adjusting it, and if that doesn't work, do the e-brake clutch de-glazing proceedure. If it doesn't work fuck it, i'll just drive it like that until the end of the year when I pull the engine at the end of the season.

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Jwhat clutch do you have in there? I missed it if its in this thread. I never "break in" a clutch.. usally I do the ol hot rodder and just drop it on the first go. Never had a problem. Then again I'm only running 300tq in my other car. Maybe that's why....just wondering if its a jz issue so I can be prepared.

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So then I fixed my clutch issue and got everything running tip top. I was having a great time burning ricers until...

I stalled my car when I was doing a burnout. It wouldnt start again. I checked my fuses and the efi fuse keeps blowing. I removed the kick panels to look for short circuits. I couldnt find anything wrong the wiring, or the turbo timer I wired in a few days ago. I noticed that the ecu was warm. I opened it up and found a burnt component. It looks like a big fat grey resistor marked "r361", in my jzx90 a/t ecu.

I thought x90 ecu's were supposed to be reliable. Has anyone seen this before? Maybe there is a short circuit somewhere?

I also noticed that I was getting a check engine light when I drove the car hard. I didn't get a check engine light when I kept my rev's below 3k.

Also just found a cracked capacitor on "D309".

So i'm beggining to think my ecu known as 'mark's ecu,' was cooked from the get go. :P

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Before I commited to bodywork;
jzx83.jpg
jzx83-2.jpg

So long since my last post i've worked out the running issues. Such as adjusting the clutch, and fixing all of those wires I rubbed through in the fender well, that i re routed. I then built a sweet exhaust for it that I didn't take pictures of, (4" Dp to a 3" straight out the back). Sounds great and doesn't rub the ground much. Then I ripped around in it for a few weeks until I hit a pot hole and severely bent in two rims that I just had straightened at $200 bucks a piece. So I said screw it to driving around in this wasteland in a car that looks like shit. So then I did this;

DSC00143_zpsff8ddeba.jpg

After

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Almost have the drivers side fender done. Then I have to do the other side and bondo etc. I ended up smashing out my rear glass because i thought the rear pillar vents came off with the trim. Expensive mistake. My glass guy pulled me a new one from the wreckers and came to install it. I also have a box of serial nine coilovers, end links, and new wheel bearings and new brakes to put on, but im waiting until the car is painted to install that stuff. I also have a Kai Flow kit that I'm in the process of obtaining in a trade off for my old BN sports aero.

Here is the colour I'm pretty sure i'm going to go with;
65950309.jpg
2013 Toyota Venza Metallic Bronze Mica

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ehhhh. i hate new car paint. there was a guy with a darker more root beer brown x8, worked out on his car though.

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The venza bronze mica deffinatly stands out a lot more in person than it does on photo. I decided to go with it after seeing venza's ball around town with that paint. Its a real eye catcher. Will need to do like three coats of clear to really pull out the pearl in it.

 

DSC00328_zps52330e42.jpg

Thats the next mother fucker I have to battle.

But as it stands, the drivers side of the car is almost prepped for primer.
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Then I brewed my best batch of red ale yet. 20% dextrose, 60% malt , 20% brown sugar with a pinch of hops.
IMG048.jpg


Then I found this old picture. Reminded me of...



... How jzxproject.com ruined my life.
215809_10150583056310481_8208812_n_zpsca

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Keep up the hard work. Being such long time period project, it is easy to lose faith and drive. Doing so much to a car and running into issues is hard on anyone mentally.

Sure I bought my cress already swapped, but I have done builds on my own in the past so I feel your pain.

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Almost done all of the body work. Just about to finnish sand before paint.
I still cant decide which hood louvers I should put on. I'm also stuck trying to figure out something classy to do for front signals, now that I have the kei flow kit on my car :).

I wanted something other than ordinary hood louvers, so I was thinking about these boat louvers. Not sure if they would look better welded level with the hood, then sanded and painted flush with the hood. Or, keep it chrome, cut a hole in the hood and just screw it down on the hood after its painted. I was thinking I would just have one on the side above my turbo.

A: louver3_zpsb3013318.jpg
B:louver_zps86ef33dc.jpgB2:louver2_zps70f1b05c.jpg

Anyone have suggestions on aftermarket bolt on DOT signals? Was considering just bright oval ones.

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Why not, a Cressida is a boat anyway.

Then cover the hood in Teak, hang life preservers on the B pillars, and a bronze prop underneith the bumper.

Name it the SS Minnow.

 

Just joking.

I actually like those louvers.

 

minnow_big.jpg

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Those are nice Louvers! I'm having problems choosing one lol I think id go chrome though.

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Those are kick ass! Chrome depends on color and wheel choice. Do it wrong it'll be too Mexican-ish.

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And you really can't paint over chrome, it will peal in short order.

If you do want to paint them, throw them in a bucket of muriatic acid, as it will desolve the chrome.

But beware, the fumes are really bad, poisonous, and will corrode everything around, so do it outside, away from anything you care about.

And the steel will start to rust as soon as it comes out of the acid, so have some hot rinse water handy, and blow dry after that with a heat gun. Then it will be ready to prime.

 

Oh, and never try muriatic on aluminum, it will disolve it in short order.

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shitttt your in saskatoon, i shoulda hit you up last week when i was back in town haha

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Yeah man, pm me, ill add you on fb. I'll get you drunk on tons of home brew.

Gordo, thanks for the solid advice, I will probably give that a shot if I end up getting those. I know all about muriatic and hydrochloric acid. We used to use it to strip hardened concrete off of pneumatic dry bulker tanks.

Any ways, in recent news, got some some Niche Spa 18x9.5+20's. I had a nice little aero/wheel test fitting session. The fronts clear the coilovers by a cunt hair, but there is still enough room around all the fenders to slam it about another inch or so.

DSC00593_zps30114036.jpg
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DSC00592_zps66d60fa7.jpg

DSC00591_zpsf68d5c88.jpg

 

If you can look beyond my car's multicultural status, you will notice that she's almost ready for primer. :)

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Looking good man.

I really like that front bumper.

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Move to Texas !

Winter down here is like 2 days long, then it's back up in the '70s for a week until the next 'northerner' passes through.

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So here it is with paint.

IMG_05861_zps2c434449.jpg
IMG_05871_zps5ac8ed79.jpg
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Gotta paint two strips of moulding on the drivers side still because i missplaced them during the painting process. I also need to have my glass guy put in the windshield and back glass trim. The 18x10's rub on the back pretty good. May have to do some hammer massaging or switch the 35's up front with the 40's in the back, possibly raise the suspension a tad.

I have some drive train vibration, so ill have to look into a one piece drive shaft and some subframe and diff bushings. If I get around to it I'de like to build up this jza80 diff I have and put higher spring pressures in the clutch packs. I need to get a wideband and set up my safc2 and 500cc injecters and tune for a reliable 450ish at the wheels.

Fuckin' money pit. Shoulda bought a 4x4.

First night out of the garage and in the hood. Got my light on in the porch, window cracked and shotgun locked and loaded.

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Been a long trip, but looks worth every minute of it !

 

Move the rear license plate too the bottom, and hang a diff cooler in the top spot, kinda Shakoton style,

or find one of the center lights from a Mark-II.

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Thanks guys! I'm probably going to be getting a kei flow rear at some point so i'll just rock the cresta bumper till then.

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