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Cyrious

Midnight Battle Station

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How did I miss this? I didn't know you got your hands on the sides and rear too! FUCK I shoulda kept the front!!!

 

Looks good though, glad youre making progress

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I have mkIII pedal, no spacers. drilled 1 hole to line up the bolt, using a bolt through the bulkhead on top vertically too. no firewall flex, engages like a champ. im using driftmotion braided line, new master and new slave with unmodified pedal and rod.

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I have mkIII pedal, no spacers. drilled 1 hole to line up the bolt, using a bolt through the bulkhead on top vertically too. no firewall flex, engages like a champ. im using driftmotion braided line, new master and new slave with unmodified pedal and rod.

Can you snap some pictures of your bracket for me and the rest of the clutch swap community? Mainly where you have it bolted to the top. You would be supporting the cause by getting another jzx on the road. I'm barricading myself in the garage this weekend, and Im not coming out unless its to drive the car out of the bay.

 

I have a set of Federal SS 225/35/r18's coming. It helps, to have a buddy who works at OK tire.

 

Jack; I was extremely confused as to why you didn't take over all of the aero... I cant wait to get it all outside to take some glory shots. I love the cresta truck lock!

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its buried under all the shit in the bay and under the dash now.

 

here's a pic of the pedal assembly:

 

5958336439_9a6634dbf2.jpg

 

the bracket uses the 2 studs that go horizontally through the firewall. I lined up the innermost stud and the rod around the boot with their respective holes on my firewall, then i had my brother hold it in place while i moved the pedal to it's "close enough" position and marked where the other stud hit the firewall. I drilled that out, put the stud thru then used a bolt where the front of the bracket is under the wiper shit.

 

there's not really much that could be better explained with pics.

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Not to be a dick, but the rest of the Jzx community kinda figured it out based on the threads floating around. But there is a hole drilled and tapped for the top mounting point from the factory under sound deadening. I think your tranny is fucked. I don't see how clutch engagement is gonna let it go in one gear and not another. I'm wrong a lot though

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I read the forums and nobody really specified how it was done. I hope my thread is somewhat useful.

 

I found that top hole, and I used it. Thanks ChriSOL.

 

Fuck you Cressida, I WON.

 

Time to go pop the cherry in this slut.

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I just took it out for its first drive. I officially jzx'd my pants.

 

There was no major issues. Pulled hard, I couldn't keep the nordic tires from spinning. (its arctic winter here). Very loud , turbo sounds amazing. No leaks anywhere, turbo feed and drain are warm. No missing , no hessitation.

 

The minor issues:

 

-The lower rad hose wouldn't heat up, but the top one would, and the heater core blew hot. Obviously the pump is pumping if the top hose is pressurized and the heater core is blowing hot. I've never heard of a thermostat failing closed so im slightly confused.

 

- The car idles high, so i'm going to check IACV & TPS voltage.

 

- Battery wont hold a charge, so I'm going to diagnose alternator and battery.

 

- Charge pipe blew off, easy fix.

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-The lower rad hose wouldn't heat up, but the top one would, and the heater core blew hot. Obviously the pump is pumping if the top hose is pressurized and the heater core is blowing hot. I've never heard of a thermostat failing closed so im slightly confused.

 

they fail stuck closed more than stuck open..

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My engine idles fine when I start the car, but it progressivly gets higher, and runs at a steady 2000 or so when its warm. When I block the iacv air outlet, the opposite happens. I'm pretty sure its screwed. Where can you even buy them?

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I thought the battle was over, and I was now able to bomb around the city at mach 3, WRONG. Pulled my oil cap and it looks like my jz jizzed its self, white gunk everywhere. Pulled the coolant cap, low coolant. Something tells me I was sold a lemon. Time for a compression and leakdown test.

 

Strange thing, is it doesn't drive like it has low compression and doesn't smell like coolant. Does a jz ever leak from a cooling passage to an oil gallery or are there any other places to look? I'm baffled right now, and really pissed that my bearings took a bath.

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Has it been cold up there? It's not uncommon to see foam on the oil cap when it's cold. It's like, oil vapor or something?

 

I'd say don't panic. Top off your coolant and keep an eye on the oil cap and your coolant level. I'd think something else would have tipped off a BHG like vapor, running shitty, etc.

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Yeah check the usuals first man. Make sure you are getting heat in the car. I was losing a little coolant too and I found that my lower radiator hose was rubbing against the 2 tension rod bucket bolts that thread from the bottom of the bucket. I apparently didn't trim enough away when I swapped my 1jz to my new car and it was just leaking enough to scare me a little bit. Check your hoses on your heater core and radiator. Hopefully it is an easy fix and just a few weird coincidences that are contributing to this problem. Good luck.

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word^ and if you only run your car for short periods of time without letting it warm up it will leave froth on your oil cap and appear as a bhg(mine did the same thing)

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At first I had an IACV coolant hose leaking from under the throttle body down over the dipstick hole. I assumed that was the problem and I fixed it and changed my fluids. Kept driving it too and from work for maybe 10 minutes at a time. Checked it again, more white stuff on my cap, and coolant low several pints. The oil was really thin and wattery and had a greenish tinge too it. Also my fresh oil gets black really fast. I thought you had to drive for a few hundred kilometers before it turned black..

 

Aside from that it has been running great, and I've been keeping good winter coolant in it, and I let it warm up before driving it and after. The only time things were wierd, is the map sensor became disconected while I was driving It and I knew the engine was running really screwed on my way home. I doubt that would cause a bhg. I guess ill know more when I compression and leakdown test it. I do know I had perfect compression before I started driving it.

 

Is it possible that since I've been driving it for short periods of time with a thermostat stuck shut, that the pressure built up and shot through the head gasket to an oil gallery? How close are cooling passages to oil?

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^what steve said, I've ran 30psi a couple of times with just 540cc and a SAFC II and no BHG. These things were built out of titanium I swear.

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So I spent all week putting my head back together.

Photo867.jpg

 

- 3 angle valve grinds

- machined new seats

- new guides and stem seals (felpro)

- ARP head studs

- cometic head gasket

- new exhaust studs, nuts

- new toyota oil filter, and toyota red coolant

 

Photo859.jpg

 

I put everything together. Went to fire it up and the starter didn't work. So I pulled the starter, tested it, find out it's crapped itself. So I replace it with a new starter turn the key and the engine runs like shit. Tons of smoke and fuel and its backfiring and popping. After chatting with other jzx'ers i'm thinking, me being a blonde, I never checked my shim clearances. What was I thinking. My timing is bang on. I might have the injector clips wrong, but regardless, I gotta check those shims.

 

I should've just levelled the head and threw her back on valves rattling away, out of spec. And replaced head if it gave me problems. She ran fine before minus the coolant leak.

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Just checked my shim clearances and all of them except one will not allow my smallest feeler guage to go under it. How the hell do I know what sort of shim to order if I can't get any measurments. If I would have known all of this before I was advised by my machinist to have my valves machined, I never would have done this shit.



KenPark-Suicide.gif

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Yeah, i'm starting to wish I did. The exhaust valves were way out of spec, you could move them in their guides and the valves wouldn't hold air pressure. At least this way i'll have a solid head. So i'm going to go to the junkyard and start pulling shims out of heads to get some smaller sizes. I gotta grab an electric fan setup while i'm at it anyways.

 

* Next time just add lapping compound and seat your own valves*

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Go shimless? I believe 3sge buckets or something like that make it so you don't need to run shims. I know the poopra guys do something like that all the time when running big cams.

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