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Steering - I want to go backwards

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is that fucking Hey Man productions? Robbie Nishida was in that group like 10 years ago. crazy!

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Cressida's(MX83) only do 40 degrees of angle stock. With our knuckles you make 47 degrees when you hit frame witha 17x8 +32 see pic below.

If you run a lower offset or longer FLCA and do not hit frame at full lock 50+ degrees is achievable.

 

131cc8ac.jpg

 

I am now going to run a 17x8 +25 and a custom longer FLCA so I can max out our knuckeles, whenI do I will take pics and show the angle achieved.

Also one of the issues is your wheels will hit the factory Tension rods, ours are designed to tuck the arm away from the wheel in order to get massive angle.

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Stock JZX81 Knuckles (thought they where modded till i took LCA off to get rose jointed)

Stock LCA

17x8.5+25

 

=47degrees

 

So this brings me to asking JZX81 MX83 Knuckles different or LCA Different to?

 

Forgot to add. No guard rubbing at full lock at all

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post pics of your setup, and how your measuring the angle. I am curious about your parts.

 

also I would double check the taper on the "brumby" balljoint. Because if it is the "Brat" but with austrailian badges the taper is not the same as X-chassis.

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^^^Brumby = Brat

 

Stock JZX81 Knuckles (thought they where modded till i took LCA off to get rose jointed)

Stock LCA

17x8.5+25

 

=47degrees

 

So this brings me to asking JZX81 MX83 Knuckles different or LCA Different to?

 

Forgot to add. No guard rubbing at full lock at all

 

hmmm.... thats a lot of stock angle.....

 

JZX's are 2" wider than MX83's though.

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Outside of wheel car pointing straight.

put tape down.

then turn wheel to full lock put more tape down. on leading wheel

then get protractor measure inside of tape on both as that is what was closest to the tire/rim on outside.

 

only time my setup ever got frame issues was with 17x9+5 on them but nothing a hammer did not fix i can not take a picture at the moment as above knuckles have gone off to be Chopped and lowered and LCA made rose jointed.

 

When i pick up my other JZX81 at the same place as knuckles i can measure up stock on that to. but i also remember reading on here that a Stock X8 has 13degrees more lock then a stock S13 and they have 36 degrees on leading wheels

 

marchdriftday10753jf.jpg

 

A good example of stock lock on a X83 (member MUMBLEZZZ)

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Image000%20(Medium).jpg

Stock lock as per picture above

 

Image003%20(Medium).jpg

Then with JIC Tierod ends

 

 

Mitch im not bagging XM at all or saying it is bull shit your measurements just going on my own car and as you know i have got a lot of Other XM Stuff on the way and if it is true a X81 is 2inchs wider that would explain why there is no rubbing on my car. ALSO Can someone look up TIE rods maybe i have after market tie rods in it i know my castor rods/tension rods are stock

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What I've learned and done-

 

For max competitive angle you'll need allot of home brew shit.

 

I made my own knuckles and compared to xcessive (no hate) there's a difference. Ackerman is pointless for what you want. Just cut and re weld short and straight plain and simple don't worry about why or ackerman or low speed turning it doesnt matter.

 

Next you'll have inner fender clearance issues, s14 lca's are a bad joke upgrade. Use x8 control arms and extend them an inch with square tubing and or welded up adjustable rod ends. Or gangster off set wheels. But with low offsets the way the wheel pivot u need more fender clearance. You'll have drill a new sway mar mount hole too.

 

Next problem is going over center on the rack, no ackerman in the steering arms helps ALLOT with this but still, to remedy this you run as little castor as u can deal with (bad side effects) to keep the steering arm in line with the rack or man up and mod your crossmember. I cut my bushings out in front of the rack and stacked them so it'd still clamp, hammered it in and grinded down shit. I maybe gained 2-3 degrees and plan on cutting and welding the actual mount pads for the rack at the end of the season.

 

A super secret Cheater mod for this is to run x7 inner tie rods with jza80 outers, since the tie rods are slightly offset it offsets the break over point the rack at full lock .

These do play with toe dynamics but myself and any drivers I know arent at the skill level to even notice that

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^^ knows his shit I've rode in his car shit gets mad angle

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I read some where a guy re drilled his engine crossmember to move rack away from the steering arms.

 

But to do this you must relocate control arm mounts and compensate for the driveline moving the inch whatever. That or alter the motor mounts.

 

Yea Gibbs event was allot of fun.

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did you lower your Knuckles like the tierod end part? as i have seen this done on a lot of knuckles coming out now just to try and get everything flat on low cars

 

dscf4442-1024-logo.jpg

 

Also are you running a bigger spacer on one side then the other? like bolt on spacer passanger side with just washer on other? and what tie rod ends you run? sorry for all the questions as im pretty much after the last bits i need sorting out what to do

 

I have knuckles being made and stock LCA boxed up with rose joint so will be adjustable + a bit of offset to help 9.5+18s

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Since I have an x7 with mcpherson strut type front end, I'm running RCA's to keep everything lined up. Since our steering arm can be spaced to compensate for lost distance. Usually only double wishbone front end cars need that stuff.

 

Although there is a little wind up at full lock main issues with the front end design is going over center and the tie rod hitting the lower control arm. Thats where you gotta get creative. And Nah no spacers, I am not mechanicaly limited by the rack, my last hurdle is the tie rods hitting the lca. Then going over center will show its ugly face again. That's why I'm gonna get all crazy with modding the cross member to move the rack forward.

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Definitely the next order of business for my car, just haven't had the time. I keep talking about going over center, has anyone else felt that? Sucks really bad your stuck at full lock only way to release it is by luck or letting off the gas and make car transition, or steer back against direction of drift and back. And that's if the car does go way over center.<- ameen car would do this, had to remember when and how much angle to drive at.

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removing ackerman helps you have more angle by giving more room for steering angle before the outer tie rod hits the control arm.

 

I believe using a X7 rack on a X8 already makes tie rods hit control arm. Knuckles with ackerman will make the steering even quicker and give it a bit more angle due to the ackerman/length

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+1 thanks Mr2thomas, that's the basic idea

 

With standard ackerman the trailing tire is dragging, though it doesn't have priority but I feel that under crazy reverse entry situations both tires facing the same or very close to the same direction helps your chances of pullin out of it.

 

Although an age old argument is that the trailing tire has little or almost no effect on steering input when weight pitch camber/contact patch come into play.

 

Edit: with modded/after market steering arms, first angle limiting factor will be wheel well of trailing wheel since under full lock there is less of a tow out situation

 

Talk is worthless without pics-

 

How my car measured up to local competition before the front end work. STOCK steering arms with S9 RCA's 18x9.-1 front wheels and 5mm of spacers? and a generous amount of tow out.

SU1BRzAyNjQuanBn.jpg

 

Had a slow day at work so I made these,

SU1BRzAwOTUuanBn.jpg

in retrospect i would have ran 0 ackerman

 

after knuckles installed, S9 tension arms but without extended control arms yet. and running 18x9 +19 wheels maybe 50 somthin? feels good to me especially with the extra room i gained from extending the control arms

SU1BRzAwOTYuanBn.jpg

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45046-29205 X8 Tie rod end number

 

Japan 08/1988-11/1995 TOYOTA MARK 2 GX81,LX80,MX83,SX80,YX80,JZX81 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Europe, General 08/1988-07/1996 TOYOTA CRESSIDA GX81,LX80,MX8*,RX8* 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

N. America 08/1988-06/1992 TOYOTA CRESSIDA MX8* 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Japan 08/1988-09/1992 TOYOTA CHASER GX81,LX80,MX83,SX80,YX80,JZX81 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Japan 08/1988-09/1992 TOYOTA CRESTA GX81,LX80,MX83,SX80,YX80,JZX81 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Japan 12/1995- TOYOTA CROWN COMFORT GXS1*,LXS11,SXS1*,YXS1*,GBS12,TSS1* 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

General 01/1996- TOYOTA CROWN COMFORT LXS1*,TSS10,YXS1* 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Japan 10/1988-03/1997 TOYOTA MARK 2 GX70,LX76,YX7* 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Europe, General 10/1988-01/1993 TOYOTA CRESSIDA GX71,MX75,YX72,RX7* 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

 

Same across all them

 

tie rod

 

Part 45503-29315 (END SUB-ASSY, STEERING RACK) was found on the following models:Market Date range Model Frames/Options Found in diagram

Japan 08/1988-11/1995 TOYOTA MARK 2 GX81,LX80,MX83,SX80,YX80,JZX81 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

N. America 08/1988-06/1992 TOYOTA CRESSIDA MX8* 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Japan 08/1988-09/1992 TOYOTA CHASER GX81,LX80,MX83,SX80,YX80,JZX81 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

Japan 08/1988-09/1992 TOYOTA CRESTA GX81,LX80,MX83,SX80,YX80,JZX81 45-05: FRONT STEERING GEAR & LINK

 

unsure if this helps anyone im still trying to find tierod ends that will fit that are longer or else i will have to run spacers or something GRRRR the downside to running a car like the X8 not many people do them up to the extent we do so not a whole lot on the net

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