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peptoslide

Steering - I want to go backwards

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Im probably just going to go withe ae92 inners to be on the safe side, can always cut them down right.

 

I just don't feel like the XM is giving my car much more angle than it had, like 10mm more room for tie rod to go before it hits LCA.

 

 

 

 

I've also thought of going s13 front if i ever come across a modded knuckle. I need new front coilovers anyway. Might as well keep x8 setup for now since i forked over the money for xm knuckles.

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Im going the same setup. i have custom LCA my spec built by XM

 

JZX100 inners with there AE92 outers was still not long enough so going AE92 with steering spacers

 

BVNo2.jpg The reason being is my old URAS tie rods had spacers built in so i thought i would give these ones ago still going to run a lock stop kit

 

also decided im going to custom my cross member and move the mounts up 20-30mm

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I was just going to do the same thing, Thug. Ae92 inners are cheap as fuck on Rock Auto. Can always cut em shorter if they're way too long. I have a spare set of knuckles and I'm going to cut n weld them and stay on the conservative side of things. If Im hitting my LCA and not over-centering, next thing to do is notch the LCA or clearance my outer tierod a bit. Also planning on an x7 rack but i have yet to find one that isn't fucked.

I just extended my stock control arms 1", so we'll see how much space there is for shit after these new arms are installed.

 

 

 

Does anyone make poly control arm bushings for the x8? I'm probably half retarded. I can't find shit.

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energy poly bushings in s13 arms, derp

 

but poly sucks cock if you change the wheel position / caster at all at the tension rod because binding

 

do this instead

 

483927_10151013397703349_149884135_n.jpg

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i want to run stock arms. No sense in running nissan arms just to get poly bushings. Ive already extended a set 1". Not looking for adjustability, just looking for stiffer than stock. I've already adjusted max castor from the top with camber plate rotation, I only have to pull the bottom forwards a tiny bit to be exactly where I want

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I had to cut the AE92 inners. But i think i need to cut my outers as they seem to long.

 

Im running a stock LCA (as far as i can tell), a NRCA, and XM ackerman steering arms, and s13 tension rods

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I have a poly bushings for the front arms.

They are probably the only X8 fitment bushings made by Armstrong that actually fit.......

Not going to use them because I have a pair of Yanak arms stashed away.

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LoL.........

Well, you find them on line, and I will sell them cheaper.

But PM will be coming.

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Zoku - I just want to switch to heims. My rod ends and LCA balljoints are always trashed by the end of the season.

 

Swim hows that heim on the inside of the LCA working for you? I've got some s13 tension rods going in soon on my s13 LCAs im already running and was thinking about some sort of heim deal so I can caster the arm forward

 

Thug if you're looking for more angle I'd lengthen the LCA. If you aren't happy with that make a notch in it. I haven't notched my s13 arms yet but I feel like it would be almost too much. I'd be dealing with rubbing issues agian

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ive been thinking about modding my own nuckles and im interested in if anyone else has done the same and im interested in some measurements and end results some people have had and maybe some ideas on a jig so left and right are identical no ghetto ass eyeballed shit lol

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See them in Japan all the time.

They cut it, overlap the ends, and weld them up.

This offset also helps tie rod angle.

 

To maintain oem ackerman, just lay them out on paper, mark the centers of the bolt holes where the spindle bolts on,

where the center of the strut tube is, or center line of the spindle where it intersects a line drawn through the centers of the mount holes,

and from that point, draw a line through the center of the tie rod hole.

 

If the tie rod hole ends up being centered anywhere along that line, you end up with the same ackerman angle.

 

Theory says that the location of the tie rod hole should be along the line from the center of the spindle piviot point, to the center of the rear axle.

 

But that is just for zero scrub when turning.

Zero ackerman is probably better for drifting, because the wheels are turned in the oposite direction than the turn.

In that case, just relocate the tie rod hole to the center of spindle piviot point, 90* from the spindle.

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i wouldnt have thought of the over lap to correct tierod angle... and i was going to go for more of a zero ackerman setup and was also looking to make more of a physical jig with some steel plate, bolts and a spare tie rod end... so i can set it the way i want it and then just cut the knuckle and lay everything in place and weld it

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jack, I love my spherical inners.

 

I used circle track "chassis tube ends" welded into 1/8" plate welded onto the end of my infiniti j30 arms, I just got the biggest tube ends summit had in stock. really easy to do and real affordable as well.

 

a place called mcgill motorsports in the UK makes 14mm to 5/8" heim joint high misalignment spacers, I'm using those and a stack of 14mm stainless washers in the factory mount with the factory bolt holding it together. super simple setup.

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For those of us who are lazy, Beech makes a pre-assembled weld on kit with a cnc cut end plate. Uses stock arms. All you have to do is cut the end of your arm off in a chop saw and weld on their threaded adapter plate, and blast some funky colours on that bitch.

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I mean

same shit, I guess, minus having to go out and buy a tiny amount of steel plate

if you want part numbers maybe I'll post them when I'm not lazy myself

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Yeah not saying I would do it..Im a dyi'er. Its just good to know the option is there if needed. I'm finishing my control arms this weekend so ill post the photos of my progress, how much angle Is gained with each mod, etc.

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How much is the beach kit?

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A lot of money for an adjustable end that you have to remove to adjust.......

 

For $79 ea, you can buy off-the-shelf double adjustable panhard bars from Speedway, that all you need to do is cut to length, and weld on to your front arms.

The same panhard bars are also super-easy to use for rear lower arms.

Cut to length, and weld on the ends from an X8 trailing arm, and a tab for the sway bar.

 

Again, these are true adjustable ends, no need to remove to adjust.

You do have to make the spacers to get to fit the metric retension bolts on the Cressida.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lightweight-Chromoly-Adjustable-Panhard-Bar-4-1-2-Inch-Bend,38229.html

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wouldnt you want to extend the control arm after the tension rod?

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15064_10151809704923243_1327937443_n.jpg

 

 

 

 

Shitty cell pic of what I'm doing. Might box the middle section as well. Extended the control arms 1", don't need anymore since my camber plates are already maxed.

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nice work space case, thats the only way that makes sense to me to lengthen the control arm. if you do it before the tension rods is seems very limiting. the next step is notching the control arm for the tie rod that's what will likely stop your angle

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