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WhoreMouth_Jr

Team Running Again Mostly version x.7

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Good info on them heims. When mine die ill know where to go. I'm still bummed i missed your private day. :C

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Went to install those heims a couple weeks back and realized I ordered LH threads for both of the 1 inch outers whoops.  I figured since I'm gonna be down for a little while longer I also ordered the 5/8 ones that they use on their otter tie rod ends too since I've got that all apart.  Also both inner LCA heims had a ton of play after < 1k miles.

I've had this weird charging issue with my car for a little while now I stopped driving it because I'm sure it wasn't good for it.  The car would pulse up and down about 1 pulse per 2 seconds, the voltage would go from 12 ->14.8 then drop back down and pulse again. And by pulse I mean the entire car's electrical (interior/exterior lights, blower and even the idle a tad.) I checked all my grounds/power connections, and the wiring to the alternator. Everything looked decent so I decided to just try a new alternator since who knows how good the Shitmotion rewinds actually are.

Anyways while I was looking into that wiring I figured it was finally time to add in that 11 position dimmer knob for "boost control" and also add in my clutch sensor.  Should have been a quick simple task but one thing led to another and next thing I knew I was redoing all my wiring behind the glove box.  I was tired of my ECU and igniter dangling behind glove box so I (with Vampirebeats welding) wiped up a quick ugly plate to mount all the electronics on.  Not great looking but it does the job.   Part of cleaning up the wiring was depinning/removing all the auto trans ecu wiring since it was a pretty large 22pin bulky connector back there. I ended up running the new wires (3 pins for dimmer and 1 pin for clutch) through the c1 body plug (main ecu -> body plug on x7s)  Made the most sense to me, so they aren't permanently attached to the ecu harness when I remove it.  Also ended cleaning up the tach adapter wiring and was able to use the switched power and ground that used to be used by the AT ECU (was grossly spliced into the power/ground for my Can gauges before) Somewhat happy with the final product.

I swooped a pair of 17x9 equips (shout-out the boy JesseStreeter ;) ) to try out since the tire options in 235 and 245s for 16s blows ass. Hopping to have the tires I bought for them mounted this week and try them out.  If I can tolerate the 16/17 stagger I'll widen the rears to 10, probably sell all my 16s but the equips, and buy more 17s.  Still slowly chugging away at the list (longer now than in photo) of shit to do.

Also never thanked @BoristheCat for the ULTRA CLEAN pair of kouki taillights he hooked up me with ❤️


Photo dump:
Most of the wires that were removed
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For maximum control between 9 and 13 psi 🤣5CS6UAn.jpg

 

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Still not done here just snapped a quick pictureFqXOiJF.jpg

 

rgolUEc.jpg

 

Actually starting to really enjoy the skirts too (Prius included in shot for Zack)
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N3ZBBaR.jpg

 

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I have a few friends who also have issues with charging on their x7s. Wonder if the issue is on the body side? Car is looking good as always.

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I like that boost knob, that's swag level major.

Glad you like the lights man!

 

Did you tie in your voltage sense wire from your alternator to right next to the battery?  Could still be having that voltage drop from having it tied into a power wire that is too far from your battery

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Thanks ❤️ 

But ya if alternator doesn't fix it, I will bypass the original sense wire routing. Will go straight to the trunk (with appropriate fuse in line) which is pretty much the only thing that could be messed up body side.  I redid the charge wire with extra thick wire when mine burnt out a few months ago (which is the event I think accelerated this alternators death.) But other than that its a wire to tell the alternator that the car is on(igsw) and the wire for the cluster warning light not a lot to go wrong (I did check and verify all 3 where working as TSRM declared). 

 

*edit* Not yet Boris 😬 But next on the list is the fuel pump relay redo in the trunk so if it doesn't fix it i'll be adding it there

 

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Tying in the stock voltage sense wiring isn't sufficient as far as I know.  If your battery was in the stock location, it should be fine.  But if yours is in the trunk now, it's definitely too far away.

 

This guide breaks it down into more detail:

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/39441708/Toyota Alternators

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You've convinced me haha.  New alternator is Oval plug anyways so I'll just do it.  

I haven't altered the sense wiring so currently it goes from alt (passenger side of block) -> fuse box (up to this point is how it is from factory then would go to battery)  -> BMW power junction box -> battery (Through the 120+ Amp (forget actual number) Circuit breaker I have in the trunk) Wouldn't have considered tying it though haha.

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Couple quick shots from the spirit peaks thing in July.  Car does not look great sliding haha but ont he bright side it looks like my leading tire is more or less flat (maybe not) so I think thats good.

IMG_4449.thumb.jpg.4007ba9c30ac7c2f401c104dc22f5d2f.jpg


IMG_4452.thumb.jpg.b8f9a2a65e48331a0dbb06bbb4f30d0c.jpg

 

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IMG_4807.thumb.jpg.686e579e9a4acc523e624769a3356090.jpg

 

Too bad I'm too pussy to tandem 

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Probably for the best with the quality of drivers in the area. Either spin city New kids or kids who've done a couple days and like "smashing doors" without learning to slide by themselves.

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I think forgot to mention that the charging problem ended up being the alternator itself (most likely the regulator was damaged) I still will redo the sense wire once I figure out my new found floating steering.

But ya finally got those arms back in and all tightened up and my steering still blows, been a while since I drove it last so I don't remember if it was this bad before.  But it's also highly possiible that I accidentally toed the arms in by making the arms longer (Didn't count how many turns I had the old ones threaded out.) But my rack boots are also dripping so most likely my rack is wack anyways and I probably won't waste an alignment seeing if it's just toed in a lot.

In other positive news I tried the 17s out and they don't look as donk as I thought they would, The tires I tried were a little too small for my taste (visually) but I think I like them enough to get new barrels for them and run bigger tires.  They currently fit like shit, allegedly they are 17x9 +20something (probably more like +30 something but I don't know shit about wheel specs) but there is no way because my 16x9+20 something fit way better and the photos below on the 17s include a spacer to clear the center bore that is too small for Nissan hubbs.  I'll have to have them bored out when I have them apart.  Also finally mounted the sides all previous photos where of them just sitting on the car to convince myself they look ok. 

 

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those equips look so damn fly!

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Thanks Kyle babe ❤️ I am a huge fan of the rears and their staggered lip.  I hope I can find that option when I'm looking for new lips for the 17s. Flat lips are dookie. 

215/40/17 I think I did some math and it made it really really close total diameter wise to my 16x9 with 215/50/16 so I wouldn't have to adjust height.  I'm pretty sure I looked for the sticker but it was super washed out and unreadable/faded. I bet it would look better with 225s.  maybe I won't go to 10 wide and I'll just do 9.5 instead so 235s should look alright

 

*edit* Just looked and my floaty steering is a floating rack, the drivers side bushing is done-zo

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I asked the size to see if they are 9s. The 215/40 is ti on 9s...might not be 9s too? Should be easy to put together a size and offset and then get a better idea of what width and offset will work for you

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So weird my Rack bushings didn't even last 1k miles. There are some weird perforated lines and it seemed to split righ ton them?  The ebay brand I used in my old car (ricochet or something) lasted more than 5 years of solid daily abuse plus occasional spirited driving.  Either way I ended up switching back to that brand and all is good now.  Steering feels all tight and crisp again ( replaced all 3 heims on both sides)

Also purchased the last XM part that I didn't have: their super expensive tension rod bushings.  I was able to ditch an un-needed washing and it looks like I was able to gain a tiny bit more caster which is always nice will wait for alignment specs to confirm that though.

As the dickrider I am I also had to finally purchase one of S9's knobs. I don't know much about shift knobs but I'm happy with it. Without the additional optional weight insert it still has some pretty solid weight to it.  I chose to run it without the weight because to me it looks better without it (you gain a little bit of height with it in.)  Small side thing I was able to add bluetooth to my 20 year old kenwood deck, stoked about that, also connects roughly 10x faster than the bluetooth in my prius

In other news finally swapped out my oil from 10W30 to 5W40 and idk my pressures seem insane (if you remember back a page or two my oil was too thin at the track).  135 cold start drops down to high 40s once car is warmed up, but oil is still under 180 (Yes I let my car warm up all the way before driving it every time =\ ).  I had to cruise it around the neighborhood to get the oil to go up past 180-190. then the idle pressure was closer to high 30s low 40s.   But the pressure while driving was 115-123 from 4k to redline.   Even driving it around a bit more I got the oil up to 200 range I was still in the low 110s from 4k-redline. I know it's winter and all but I can't seem to wrap my head around how ambient temp maters once the oil is up to operating temp as I'm sure the block will also be warming up to that as well. But I'm also mildly retarded so I'm sure theres something I'm missing.   Builder says pressure is fine, tuner says he'd like to see it closer to 100max.  On the fence for sending it vs. changing back to 10-30 for the rest of winter then going back to the 5-40 in the summer.   Factors that may or may not mater:  Rebuilt engine, with looser than OEM (toyota oem) bearing clearances, PHR modified oil pump (supposedly slightly raised pressure), no oil squirters,  pressure sensor is on the oil sandwhich plate I believe after oil filter (I am not sure if I'm pulling my oil feed for the turbo before or after the filter I'd have to an oil galley diagram to confirm flow path.)

Anyways shitty pictures as always sorry about the screen-cap for the worn bushing I guess I didn't take any pictures of it:

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uFIshz8.jpg

Weight vs No weight heights:

p3TjdAI.jpg

 

EAGo3v7.jpg

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Pressure sensor on sandwich plate may be giving you a high reading, depending on if it is just be at the inlet of the sandwich, or on the outlet portion, going into the block.

Please tell me you are running a full size filter, without some pos thermostat....

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Running an OEM toyota filter. @Gordo  which way does the oil flow.  Does it flow into the filter from the outer ring or the smaller inner ring (I assume it returns post filter to the small inner ring?).  And yes my sandwhich place has a thermostatic valve:
https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/mrp-thermostatic-oil-filter-sandwich-plate-1

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Basically looks like 1 pre and 1 post cooler routing, with that small hole for bypass I believe (where the spring is showing)? I'd have to double check which location the pressure sensor is specifically.

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The hole by the chinese sticker is pre cooler.

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^^ New Zealand but same same.  Mishitmoto basically copied this design for theirs.  Pre cooler would be artificially high until thermo opened? either way I got the temp up to 200 so it should have been opened, and was still seeing 110-120.  
I'll double check which sensor is where tonight, but I think I'm gonna be the idiot I am and just run it.

 

Confirmed temp is on the "Chinese sticker" port pressure on the raised port.

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Making some progress on my huge list.  Almost done. I think I'm finally at the point where I can take my car to the fab shop.

Ran the sense wire to the trunk as well as the rest of the audio bullshit related wires I needed to run through the wire loom thing in the floorboard. Cleaned up my ghetto fuel pump relay stuff too.  It worked but I wasn't super thrilled with it.

5GyF748.jpg

 

Before and afters not much improvement but makes me happy and that all that matters hah.

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Literally just female pins into the plug haha.

Temporary mounting: Fuse for FP and the sense wire, will sleeve the power wires coming out once I finish the divider where I'm gonna mount everything on  

HeONVRC.jpg

xIL6OtJ.jpg

 

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yeah huge possibility of those melting they get stupid hot

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I guess that explains why the old wire are a little burnt lol.  You can see it if you look at the 3rd picture the power wire is roasted for the first little bit.

It's weird from factory the body side is double wired(roughly same gauge ~14) power and ground, but on the pump side there is only 1 of each.

 

*edit*
Actually looking at fuel hangers out there for poopras,  It looks like everyone (PHR/Radium) uses 14-16g from pump to hanger.  Even the wiring provided with AEM/Walbrobro pumps is the same 14-16g so ultimately that would be the bottle neck no? 

Just curious how you guys redid the wiring on the hanger as I believe one of the wires is riveted to the hanger?  Did you just drill it out and rivet a new one on?  Any pictures? 

 

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I ran BOTH wires from the fuel pump out through a bulkhead fitting to a connector. A connector with big enough terminals to handle the AMPS.

 

Once i did that, never had an issue :)

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