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jaime.g

1jz sputter when below normal operating temp

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hey guys,

 

I'm wondering if any of you all maybe able to help me out with an issue that i've been experiencing ever since I got my car running. I've dealt with it so far , however it's starting to get annoying and i just want the damn thing fixed.

 

I'm having a sputtering issue with my 1jz cressida (jzx81 auto set) that i'm not too sure what could be causing it. The sputter only happens when the car is cold between 2800-3200rpms. It completely goes away when it is warmed up though.

 

I'm thinking CTS, however I have searched the crap out of 1jz cts and I can't find anywhere that mentions what replacement to use and where is the easiest place to get one or part number. I'm not too sure that is even the cause of the issue.

 

I have replaced all spark plugs with bkr6e's at .8 gap. Shieled all coilpacks with heatshrink. Replaced dud jzx81 ecu with jzx90 ecu.

 

mods: stock intake with cone filter, open downpipe 3.25". stock boost. not throwing any codes

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

-Jaime

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doesnt everybodies 1j do that??? on cold start the ecu dumps more gas in the chambers.......so driving during this time, it wouldnt run clean at all.

 

dunno if you read a thread where i had problem with a 1j not starting. the car has been sittin....i dont drive it at all. i just start it once a week to move it. everytime i start it, i would drive down the block or something and then shut it off. after a few weeks of that the car wouldnt start. turned becuz i didnt let the car warm up all that gas from the cold start fouled out the plugs.

 

im sure this info is obvious but we all sometimes overlook the obvious......

 

o yea...iirc the plugs i use in the jzs are bkr7e or something (ngk 3330 or ngk 6097). normally gap them around .28

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JZX81 ECU often break down.

Change the all five electrolytic capacitors in ECU.

Sometimes it recovers, sometimes does not work.

I think you replace to JZX90 ECU.

Check the ISCV or thermo sensor for ECU, if the cause is not ECU.

 

I sometimes use JZX81 ECU, sometimes use JZA70 ECU, sometimes use JZX90 ECU, sometimes use JZZ30 ECU.

post-1912-1238932666_thumb.jpg

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my car does the same thing... I tried almost everything to get it to stop but it still does it. Fresh plugs help out and I would use bkr7e instead of what you are using. I pretty much gave up and just deal with it and wait for the car to warm up.. But I hope someone comes up with a solution in this thread!

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doesnt everybodies 1j do that??? on cold start the ecu dumps more gas in the chambers.......so driving during this time, it wouldnt run clean at all.

 

dunno if you read a thread where i had problem with a 1j not starting. the car has been sittin....i dont drive it at all. i just start it once a week to move it. everytime i start it, i would drive down the block or something and then shut it off. after a few weeks of that the car wouldnt start. turned becuz i didnt let the car warm up all that gas from the cold start fouled out the plugs.

 

im sure this info is obvious but we all sometimes overlook the obvious......

 

o yea...iirc the plugs i use in the jzs are bkr7e or something (ngk 3330 or ngk 6097). normally gap them around .28

 

my 1j has no problems cold starting at all, it's just a hesitation or sputter in that rpm range when cold. aren't 6 heat range stock? and 7 for more boost?

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JZX81 ECU often break down.

Change the all five electrolytic capacitors in ECU.

Sometimes it recovers, sometimes does not work.

I think you replace to JZX90 ECU.

Check the ISCV or thermo sensor for ECU, if the cause is not ECU.

 

I sometimes use JZX81 ECU, sometimes use JZA70 ECU, sometimes use JZX90 ECU, sometimes use JZZ30 ECU.

 

Yes, you're right. I did replace my x81 ecu with x90 using the same type of harness adapter. Doing this actually made the car run 10x better. I went through the whole replacing capacitors deal and it did not resolve my previous issues.

 

Now that you mention the ISCV, I just remembered before I got my 1j running, i tried using carb cleaner to clean out the iscv valve. When i did this, the orange rubber thing warped and Does not appear to seal anymore. I may try hunting a replacement down to see if that helps. Does anyone have a spare one that I can get off of them?

 

By thermo sensor for ECU, are you referring to the water/coolant temp sensor?

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my 1j has no problems cold starting at all, it's just a hesitation or sputter in that rpm range when cold. aren't 6 heat range stock? and 7 for more boost?

 

well mods include 3" exhaust with ebay ypipe/downpipe & fmic. gets about 14psi.

 

but basically what i was tryin to say is that i've never seen a 1j run without sputtering before reaching normal operating temperature. i wouldnt expect it to either.

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Now that you mention the ISCV, I just remembered before I got my 1j running, i tried using carb cleaner to clean out the iscv valve. When i did this, the orange rubber thing warped and Does not appear to seal anymore. I may try hunting a replacement down to see if that helps. Does anyone have a spare one that I can get off of them?

 

By thermo sensor for ECU, are you referring to the water/coolant temp sensor?

 

hmmm, you replaced all capacitors.

I don't know for sure, it may cause by ISCV.

 

Yes I would like to say is water/coolant temp sensors.

One is for coolant temperature gauge, another is for ECU.

But If it is faltering, idling engine speed is not high at starting.

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its weird....after reading this, i have never had any issues with my jzx90. warm or cold its always run smooth. I dont think its normal for it to sputter or hesitate when cold.

 

 

 

The only time my engine mis fires is when i hose down the engine bay and i get water near the coil packs then it sputters until the water has evaporated.

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unfortunately what we all likely need to fix that idle is a new idle speed control valve. pn#: 22270-46030 but it's listed at $851.30 on toyodiy. i wish toyota would let go of their horde of ISCV's. they probably have a bin with like 100 of these just laying there collecting dust, right next to a bin full of brand new mx83 chrome side moulding and chrome bumper trim for roughly $120 a piece.

 

i just adjusted the throttle stop screw so it props open the throttle slightly so it idles about 200rpm cold and idles about 400rpm when warm.

 

actually i freaked out someone when the motor idled so slow they could pretty much count the pulses. it was awesome, but sucks if you tap the throttle, it usually just sputters and stalls when it tries to run at like 0.000000000000000000001 rpm hahaha.

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Yeah mine started doing that about a month ago. I guess I don't really care enough to fix it. Are any of you running stock boost? Maybe it has something to do with it.

 

 

-Matt-Panic!

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I'd say youre right on with the coolant temp. Try using a 2j one.

 

My car idles perfect with no iacv and no o2 sensor.

 

Speaking of that.

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cts fixed the issue! runs smooth now with no hesitation when cold

$15 new from oreillys

 

definitely replace yours if you havent

 

thanks guys for the input

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update: the cts replacement fixed the issue about 98%, for some reason it seldom does the sputter thing. Just wanted to update you all.

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Hmm, just did my timing belt and now my JZX81 is having a similar problem..its also not idling as high as it used to. Now its trying to idle at like 450-500rpms. It's falling flat on it's face around 3500rpm, goes all haywire sounds like a shitty revcut. I scrubbed the front of the engine with degreaser, maybe I fucked up my CTS? It's right next to the water pump no? What are the chances my alt that I happened to have scrubbed with cleaner and shit is toast? I also replaced the coolant with straight water.

 

I also had a check engine light when I initally started the car, I turned it off and turned it on a few times eventually the check engine light was no longer on (once it's warmed up the check engine light goes away if you turn the car off and then on again. I waited till it cooled down and started it again and the check engine light came back), but my car isn't doing fast idle on start up anymore either. Used to jump up to 1500-2000rpms off initial start up, now it starts and then drops down to 500rpm..When it's warmed up the hesitation doesn't go away.

 

I'm at a loss guys. I don't have a multimeter here right now so I couldn't check the alt even if I wanted to.

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I just checked my codes, I'm getting a code 13 for RPM signal. Coming from cam sensor? Found some stuff says one of my cam gears could be off by a tooth.

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