Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
JimmyHoffa

Doriboat JZX73

Recommended Posts

Guest JoooeOne

if you ever need some help with the ms3x let me know i got my car runing with it yesterday.

 

i will be tuning it next week not on a dyno but on the road and street

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Holy Fuck. 5 years since an update. I'm a piece of shit. I guess I have the excuse of being a dad, renovating my house, starting a business, and soon to be repeating the renovations and dad again thing.

 

This year I've changed my turbo. It's still a Holset, but I've upgraded the compressor side to a 62.5mm inducer HX40-Super billet compressor wheel and housing from Turbo Lab of America. It still spools to 18psi just before 3k rpm, but should flow enough to make upwards of 600whp and make good power to redline.

 

I finally got my digidash tach working, first time it's worked since I pulled the 5M in 2009. It was fully a waste of time since it's blocked by a gauge pod, but it was on the to-do list...

 

Put in a giant aluminum Mk3 supra rad from ebay. My 32 year old stocker never gave me any problems with overheating but the top tank split last year.

 

Hooked up the knock sensors to my megasquirt pending a dyno day booked July 14th.

 

Bought Xcessive Engineering poly engine mounts, should be installing them this weekend. Last year I took my car to the drag strip to do some shakedown runs and the 32 year old stock floppy-dick rubber mounts drove me nuts. I managed to run 13.3 @ 109mph with 2.02 60ft. No traction, but once I manage to hook it goes.

 

I'll try to get some pictures posted, and a video once I get it on the dyno, but maybe it'll be another 5 years...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Bill.

 

I spent 14 hours wrenching yesterday to get ready for dyno day this coming Friday. No pictures, I was too frantic trying to get shit done.

 

-Changed engine mounts to Xcessive poly mounts. I kind of regret not getting the 65 shore Poly. It feels great overall, but at idle the 80 shore transmit a bit too much vibration to the chassis for my liking.

-Changed old floppy rack bushings to Xcessive delrin bushings. Also removed the steering damper. Steering feels like a whole other car. Steering feel reminds me of my AE86 a bit.

-Wired up my knock sensors, sadly my settings are just way too broad, or I've got a bit too much unshielded wire length near the ECU because it's picking up knock ALL THE TIME if the engine is running.

-Oil change, checked diff lube, etc.

 

Still need to do a compression test and leakdown to be sure everything is happy and healthy before I go thrash it hard on the dyno.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

-Wired up my knock sensors, sadly my settings are just way too broad, or I've got a bit too much unshielded wire length near the ECU because it's picking up knock ALL THE TIME if the engine is running.

-Oil change, checked diff lube, etc.

 

You should try a Bosch sensor, part number 0-261-231-006.

Doesn't pick up as much engine noise as the old screw-in Toyota sensors, because it picks up a narrower frequency range.

Used on many Nissans & Euro cars these days.

If you have the big 12mm (?) threaded holes in the block, use the special stud to mount the Bosch sensors.

Toyota stud, p/n 90126-08046

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ gordon proving to be the most helpful member of jzxp is making my monday.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha shit, I typed up a similar response without the part numbers and forgot to hit send again. I'm also running a pair of the Bosch knocks. They are pretty quiet until actual knock is being detected. Unfortunately they will require harness adjustment as well I believe they are two wire where as OEM Toyota are only one.

 

Make sure you or your tuna configure them, cause my first tuna had no idea wtf he was doing and it cost me a bottom end. (Only had it reading off of 1 of the 2 and the one that was setup wasn't even right so it wasn't showing any knock)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gordon, my understanding was the Bosch 2 wire ring style sensors were "wideband" so they would pick up a broader frequency range than the stock Denso resonant sensors that are tuned to pick up only the knock frequency created by an engine with a specific bore diameter.

 

The sensor suggested by DIYAutoTune (where I get all my megasquirt parts) suggests 0-261-231-008 . Do you know the difference between the 006 and 008?

 

I'm definitely down to give them a try, and thanks for that stud PN. It'll save me time because I won't have to machine it myself. As usual, the old timer is the most useful one in the room when it comes to the hard questions...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dyno'd last weekend. Fucking heartbreak.

 

394whp and 425 ft/lb at 20psi on a Mustang MD800

 

I was hoping to at least break 400whp. After I sort out some suspension stuff the next step is to upgrade turbine wheel and turbine housing to flow more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Be careful with those shifts haha. I break everything while shifting like an asshole from first to second

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard on clutches, but clutches are easier to find than stub axles, or diff output shafts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't see that helping in a positive way to the main purpose I built the car (To be a drift-tard.) And currently rocking a excedy twin plate so currently I think diff output shafts are eaiser to find, but 1 off stub axles on the other hand =(

 

More importantly how's it holding up Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So far so good. I have no traction in first, second, and if I shift too hard into 3rd it'll break loose a bit. I usually tend to shift like the trans is made of glass (which parts of it basically are). Boost by gear is working well. When I want, I can have traction in all but 1st gear. I've got most of my ECU settings really well dialed so driveability is great. Startup is flawless, idle is smooth, it's never run better.

 

I've got a track day booked August 26th and am trying to get out to the local drag strip to see if I can get into the 12s finally.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Time for better/larger tires...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Time for better/larger tires...

That's when I'll start really breaking driveline parts...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×