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JimmyHoffa

Doriboat JZX73

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I did a bit of work today on my hubs for my 300ZX brake setup. I'm cheap, lazy and stubborn so I'm not going 5 bolt right now. Sorry about the crappy iphone pics.

 

Machined hubs (diameter machined to fit inside the rotor hat, snout machined down for thermal fit ring)

IMG_0079.jpg

 

Ring ready to be heated

IMG_0082.jpg

 

one hub ready to go in the freezer and one with ring installed (.002 interference fit)

IMG_0084.jpg

 

finished product

IMG_0086.jpg

 

Should be installing them this weekend.

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Jimmy what is it exactly that you keep breaking? Is it the crush sleeve? How about using the TRD LSD? I know they hold up real good with the MKIV supra diffs granted they're 8in, I think. There is 1 guy on cs.com using it and it seems to be holding up just fine for him. If I knew that I could of used the TRD unit I might of opted for that instead of the TrueTrac. Also have you seen the Weir Performance stock LSD rebuild kit? Look though this thread if you havent yet http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.p...6340&page=2 they chime in at post #15

 

Just some ideas...

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The 7.5 inch stock LSD is trash. My problems have been mostly from the crush sleeve collapsing and the pinion smashing into the diff. According to a lot of the mk2 supra guys even with a solid spacer the stock diff is only good to 300-350 horse/ft/lb before you'll shatter the spider gears, and the TRD unit isn't much better. I put in a detroit truetrac and a Weir Performance solid pinion spacer, so far it's awesome, and it's the one 7.5" diff that is supposed to stand up long past the point where the ring and pinion fail. It's helical but it still gets sideways pretty well. The last guy I know of that broke one in a mk2 supra was running a 2J pushing 700+ horse and was running slicks.

 

You can't fit an 8" diff in an MX73 without MAJOR modifications, like a completely custom rear subframe..

 

The first diff I blew up was low milage and I was only running 10psi. The second one was higher milage but still in good shape and I was being semi-nice to it when it shat the bed. In short, they're junk. I don't know anyone who's used the weir rebuild kit, but it won't change the fact that the spider gears aren't very tough.

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I finished putting on the 300ZX brakes a couple weeks ago. They stop really well but I think I'm eventually going to go to a bigger diameter master cyclinder for better pedal feel.

 

redrilled rotors, rebuilt calipers, PDM racing S13->300ZX braided lines, custom machined hubs, 10mm caliper spacers and new hub seals

SN156523.jpg

 

I had to trim about an inch of the front of the brake shields to clear the calipers

SN156526.jpg

 

SN156531.jpg

 

the brake shields clear the rotors by a few mm.

SN156532.jpg

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Sadly I'm a broke bastard and am running stock wheels. They clear by around 5mm.

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Did you end up re-usimg the restrictor with the new holset?

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the oil restrictor? right now I'm not running a restrictor, the max oil pressure that the turbo is ok with is like 78 or 80psi, and the 1JZ oil pump's max pressure is right around there. There is a restrictor built into the turbo too. I just have a 5/16" hard line from the front turbo oil supply port on the side of the block straight to the turbo.

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Cool. Ive been looking and have found conflicting results, thanks.

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Time for a long overdue update. Since my last update (two fucking years ago...) I've done a few things.

-installed my detroit trutrac diff with Weir solid pinion spacer kit and new bearings
-had the shims from the Weir kit slide out the side and get chewed up in my brand new bearings, causing my diff tolerances to go to shit and make a lot of noise
-bought another $250 bucks worth of diff bearings, re-did the setup and machined myself a one-piece pinion spacer
-bought some 17s for $400 with tires
-bought, modified and installed coilovers (cheaped out and bought my buddy's used MK2 supra AGX/ground control fronts and a pair of megan s13 rears) currently running 8k front 7k rear springs. They ride surprisingly well.
-bought and built a megasquirt 3X with all the bells and whistles : boost control, 4 bar map sensor, etc etc. (in the process of wiring it up with my 1.5JZ now)
-rebuilt my Holset HX35 with super-cheap Chinese parts from BAE turbo (not surprisingly it spools faster with tips on the turbine wheel fins)
-changed my starter (exciting shit)
-went from 14psi WG spring to 11psi spring because I was getting tired of hitting boost cut
-somehow managed to kill my 1JZ :(

That brings us up to date.. now here are a few shitty iphone pics.
.
2JZGE bottom end bought because my spare 1JZ looked like shit after sitting for 4 years after a life of neglect (I built the janky ramp so I could unload it by myself)
image.jpg

Looks damn clean. It came out of a USDM NA mk4 supra with 106,000km on it.
image11.jpg

More JZs than before
image10.jpg

This is some of the metal that came out of the oil pan of my 1J
image8.jpg

Stripped my spare 1J head to clean it, lap the valves and change the valve guide seals
image7.jpg

Old 1J piston top. Cyl #2 was the worst (this one), the rest weren't nearly as bad.
image4.jpg

17s.
image2.jpg

My buddy Nate's FRS a couple hours after he picked it up from the dealership and my garden.
image3.jpg

I wanted a turbo blanket, but I'm a cheap bastard, so I bought a stainless steel pot at a thrift store for 5 dollars and wrapped it with a few layers of stick on heat barrier shit. Voila ghetto heat shield. Also wrapped my manifold. I ran out half way through, but Bill came through and brought me another half-roll of header wrap (Thanks again Bill).
image6.jpg

As it sits right now the motor is all together and back in the car, just need to reconnect some shit and wire it up. I'll hopefully have it running in the next week or two.


I'll post more updates in less than 2 years, and with better pics. I promise.

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I was just wondering about this. That thing is gonna not get traction. And it will be awesome

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I'm counting on sans traction. Considering the entirety of my goal with this car is rolling burnouts at highway speed, with enough boost it should be workable.

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I like the sound of freeway speed rolling burnouts. I too have that dream, I just can't afford the fuel components. I want e85 and like 30 psi from my holset and see if I can blow shit up.

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Worked on it last night. passengers side IC piping lined up by clocking the compressor housing a few degrees, driver's side will need a cut, bead roll and a coupler. DP needs a bit more work, which kind of blows because it fit really well before. Next is wiring up my MS3x.

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Still no good camera. I just put it on to charge right now.

 

I put my BMW battery cable in, all nicely tucked along the door sill with the stock body harness, just need to build/buy/acquire a battery box. Then I tore my dash apart and went from this.

image1.jpg

 

To this.

image2-1.jpg

 

This is most of the wire I stripped from the MS3x harness. It's got A LOT of features I'm not using.

image4-1.jpg

 

This verified my suspicion that my old 1J died from crank walk.

image6-1.jpg

 

I'm heading to work on the engine side of the harness tomorrow morning.

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The bully clutch?

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When I got the motor it had an ORC twin plate push type on it and some thrust washer wear. I checked it and it was within spec so I didn't buy new thrust washers. I then put in the bully (pull type) and proceeded to have stalling issues for 2 seasons (shit tons of unnecessary starting). I'm not overly surprised, but it does kinda suck.

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if you need a coupler or some piping, hit me up, i have a whole plastic bin full of all sorts of shit from 2", 2.5, 3, 3.25. just tell me what you need, i'll check for it.

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