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JimmyHoffa

Doriboat JZX73

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well, that didn't last long. went to head out for a drive and heard what sounded like compressor blades contacting housing for a second. it stopped, I kept driving. hit boost once or twice and all of a sudden the car got loud so I headed home. it drive ok but doesn't make boost and the compressor wheel has definitely been hitting the housing. Time for a new holset. Fuck. Also time to get drunk.

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When I bought the turbo on ebay (in unknown condition) there was no shaft play. After pretty extensive research I decided to put a 1.5mm restrictor in my 5/16" oil feed line to limit the oil feed pressure to an estimated 30-40psi. I think either the turbo had a plastic "bearing" in it, it had a bent/damaged turbo shaft, or the restrictor fucked me in the ass and now I need a new CHRA (center housing rotating assembly)

 

Here are the pics of the damage.

 

SN155386.jpg

 

and the compressor side

 

SN155388.jpg

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I just found this on my thread on Realhomemadeturbo.com I thought it was so funny that I had to share it.

 

"Last time I saw a cressida, it was in a picture, in a cops hand. He was wondering why a car with my bro's name on the slip was abandoned in a city-owned swamp, just after a man-made jump, with 2 blow-up dolls and spray painted w/phallic symbols. I didn't think he was serious at first..."

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To re-phrase my previous hammered-drunk post... I went out last night, did a big burnout from a stoplight, first gear spin, second gear spin, third gear bang... spider gears in my diff shattered. I managed to limp the car home while the diff gradually ate itself, sounding and feeling worse and worse. I knew the diff was going to be the weak point when I built the car. The 7.5 inch F series diffs are only good for around 300 horse/300 ft/lb and I'm assuming at 13psi I should be making right around 300 rwhp. I just didn't think it would break that soon and that easily. As one of my friends said last night while I was drinking my face off and mourning the loss of my diff, it always comes in threes... The bottom bracket on my fixie is fucked, my hard drive died on Thursday night and on Friday I go and blow up my diff. Yay me. Now I'm hung over.

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Damn... My empathies. At least it wasn't your own fault like cracking carbonetic disc before it even gets in the car.

 

Also, I think that I'd like to save you from a 4th trajedy. I had my cone filter right where you have yours. Mine melted... Don't let it happen to yurs. Get a pipe. You need it for a catch can anyway.

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Thanks for the sympathy and the heads up jacob. I've gotten my car pretty hot and driven it for a couple weeks so far without any problems with the filter melting, but I do need to put in a pipe so I can plumb in my catch can. My car's been sitting for a week and will have to sit for at least another week until I can go pick up a MK2 supra diff from a buddy about 2 hours away.

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I replaced the diff today and fixed a coolant leak that I'd been meaning to fix for a while. I got a used high mileage stock LSD (that actually works, unlike my old one) for $50 bucks from a guy a few hours away. I hadn't driven the car in the wet before and damn is it hairy with a decent LSD. In 4th gear doing about 110 if I roll on the gas and get up to about 7psi the back end will break free, and since my suspension is made of marshmallows it doesn't do it in a nice predictable way. Time to start manwhoring so I can afford to pay for new suspension, wheels and tires and pay off my student loan and other debt all at the same time.

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at least in canada, we have something called winter.. either drink or save.

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A little update. Just a few pics of my ratty engine bay etc.

 

SN156050.jpg

 

Needs more lowering/new suspension

SN156051.jpg

 

SN156053.jpg

 

The corner of shame. Ziptied ground connection (it's been problem free since july, lol) and powerade coolant overflow (the lid actually fits well)

SN156055.jpg

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installed slash cut screamer and peek at the exhaust. fucker at the exhaust shop sold me some rusty 3" pipe but the price was right.

 

SN155325.jpg

 

you should've just hit it with some hi-temp paint.

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Putting the battery in the trunk was my original plan, but when I did it I didn't want to pay the $150-200 bucks I was quoted by 3 different welding supply shops for enough 00 gauge cable to do it properly (and add 60lbs to the car), so I fabbed up a battery tray, bolted it in, and bought a civic battery for $30 bucks because it was small enough to fit and went to town. It's one thing I might redo, but it works and it was fuckin' cheap.

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why didnt u go to an audio store and get x number of feet to run it? the only only long wires are the power and then the ground it grounded in the back anyways. Prolly also gotta run the smaller gauge wire to run the accessorys and stuff too. My power wire is on my starter then the other smaller gauge is to the ecu/fuses/peripherals. I think I paid maybe 50 bucks in wire? and its thick, I cant remember what gauge. Then you can fab up ur own box or get a generic box from a local parts store for like 30 bucks.

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I was going to run one 00 gauge wire to the back for the + (around 20 feet to route it nicely), and one 0 gauge ground. I want good grounding to the engine and ECU, without any ground loops. For proper power transmission you need bigger gauge wire the longer you're going. The 1-2 foot stock power wire is somewhere around 2 gauge, for ~20 feet you need something closer to 00 so you don't end up with a lot of resistance. That works out to a hell of a lot of copper, both in weight and in cost and I am a cheap mofo. It was pretty easy to make a battery tray, and I had like 50 feet of 1 gauge aircraft grade power cable, so I chose the easy and cheap solution.

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I put my car back on the road yesterday since the snow is gone. Put in my new Bully stage 4 single plate and I love it. The ORC was cool, but not really DDable, this clutch is supposedly good for 600 horse/ft/lb and feels damn near stock. The car also idles a bit smoother and lower with the heavier stock PP. I also put in a second WG spring so instead of 9psi spring pressure and 12psi with a shoddy MBC I'm running ~14 psi. I still need to put in the BCC I got from aphxero, and my 440s but the AFRs are looking solid until boost cut. My next purchase will be coilovers... I forgot how scary it is to drive around with 300+hp and blown 25 year old suspension.

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Just blew up another 7.5" diff in my Cressida. I need another one. Preferably in Canada, preferably close, but willing to pay for shipping if someone has one.

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I just bought a truetrac and solid pinion spacer today. Helical isn't really what I wanted, but they're supposed to be good for 700+ horsepower, so I shouldn't have to fuck with it again.

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Do you plan on drifting with this diff Jimmy Hoffa? I've heard that they don't lock all the time, more of a 1way.

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I plan on sliding a few corners, maybe go to a couple drift days, definitely a couple drag days and lapping... when it's a bit more complete. More than anything it's my DD and gets the shit beaten out of it on the regular. AFAIK there aren't many other 7.5" diffs on the market that will reliably handle more than 350 horse and 300ft/lb. The TrueTracs are reportedly fine with upwards of 700 horse.. I've gone through two stock LSDs in under a year and I want something reliable that can take the abuse I dish out, I also don't want to DD a weldy.

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New diff and all bearings here, I'm setting it up and trying to get the gears patterned properly now. It looks like the next most likely thing to break is the ring gear or the actual pinion shaft.

 

This is what happens when your pinion crush sleeve collapses and your pinion gear pulls into the carrier.

IMG_0046.jpg

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