Jump to content
aphxero

LCA foolishness

Recommended Posts

*** this is copied from my build thread***

 

So in addition to this I'm working on adapter brackets to use pillow tension rods with the mx83 front sway bar. Nice and neat. I was also comparing the s13 spindles to the cressida ones and honestly, the cressida knuckle is shorter by about 8mm. So by moving the ball joint further out we're just really giving it the room it needs to hit max angle. Cool. Forget the whole "you need s13 suspension for angle" idea because here's the proof.

 

Okay so I tried out some longer control arms/balljoints today. Which surprisingly seem nothing but good.

 

Just from test fit I've noticed the following:

angle1.jpg

IMG_0422.jpg

Angle looks good

IMG_0431.jpg

Roll center looks right

IMG_0429.jpg

Track/camber is right (this is full neg on the top hat)

IMG_0436.jpg

AND NO MORE RUBBING!

 

As soon as I find some longer tie rod ends I'll drive it and see if there are any binding issues or whatever. FJ cruiser ends look like a good candidate. Then pillow tension rods and realign.

 

Discuss.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You got it! But they can't be installed until the right TC rod and sway bar solution is made.

 

Btw, I measured and the taper that goes into the knuckle is the same :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dug through tons of books with tie rods combos and shit. I can't find anytrhing that'll be a bolt in so it looks like it'll be a custom job.

 

More info as it arrives.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dude, you are the man. I wish all the bay area shops were still open so i could actually try and help you along with fabrication, but everyone is closed, or is on their way to closing, so right now, i have no access to any parts or tools to be able to make this possible.

 

This sounds like a job for custom heim-joint end links! :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

something cheaper and easier is being worked out.

 

Once I have it all worked out and tested it should be a bolt in deal. so urethane sway bush on 83 bar, urethane s13lca bush and pillow tension rods. I think I'll be using silk road ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i want to see how you figure out the tension rod deal, ive been told that you can use s13 TC rod brackets and stuff, but im not sure if that will work, ill have to get under a s chassis and check it out, hopfully it will be the same.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

its not the same. I found a tie rod solution so now it's sway bar and then I'll do a writeup./

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use s13 link with the 83 lca anyhow. The issue is the bar needs to mount to the body. S13 bar is out of the question as it hits the oil pan badly. the location where the sway mounts to the body on the cressida TC rod brackets is no longer there. So I have to build something. No big deal to make it just need to wait until I have the tie rods.

 

As soon as tie rosd show up I'll post impressions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really friggen cool. I haven't started the work on my car and an option like this is awesome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
so are you using s13 traction brackets?

 

Yes.

 

And mounts will be very strong and factory locations.

 

I know the cress ones have better geometry and all that but this is the cheap way and it gets rid of those sloppy assed bushings up there.

 

I think I'm like $100 in this so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey, so, I think I'm gonna switch back to stock cressida hubs/ stock S13 LCA's so I can sell my orange tree control arms and peak hubs/extended studs...

 

 

and you said the cress. steering knuckles are shorter than stock S13 ones, right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes.

 

And mounts will be very strong and factory locations.

 

I know the cress ones have better geometry and all that but this is the cheap way and it gets rid of those sloppy assed bushings up there.

 

I think I'm like $100 in this so far.

 

awesome.

 

I say fuck geometry and roll centers. drifting is about looking cool and steering angle :P

 

just noticed the clear tape on the corner lamp... great minds think alike :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old thread I know, but I'm trying to finish up my s13 LCA's.

 

Aphxero, how accurately did you measure the s13 ball joint taper vs. stock? I was ready to just bolt my knuckles on but after searching I read this

http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0211_project_nissan_silvia/photo_05.html

 

I don't want it to fuck with my alignment/break apart while I'm driving. Can anyone confirm the taper is same? Or can I press x8 ball joints into these arms?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well how did yours hold up? I don't have anything accurate enough to measure the taper although it looks fine. I don't wanna be off by 0.5 degrees and crash and die.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If mark thinks it's the same, it probably is...if it wobbles in the hole, it ain't. Your alignment shouldn't really change if you don't adjust your tie rods I wouldn't think anyway.

On another note-I'm told that Subaru brumby (brat?)/ L series are a good solution for a longer tie rod. Anyone confirm? Next time I see a wreck I'll grab them anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i cut and shut my lcas 25mm longer as the s13 lcas i had laying around dident wona work with the stock caster rod,and yes the subaru brumby /L siries work.

 

btw troy its brad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jack. I had that issue on my s13 when I did s14 knucles and lca. It was a nightmare. Car would wander all over the road.

But the problem was I bought s14 lca that already had s13 ball joints pressed in with s13 knuckles instead of S14.

Ended up using s13 ball joint in s14 lca with s13 knuckle.

 

What are you going to do for sway bar location?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

K so, pressed out a ball joint from both X8 and S13 to see if I could just swap em. Nope. X8 is larger diameter.

 

Finally got my hands on measuring shit. Tried my best to measure the taper between them, it seemed to be within tenths of mm. So I'll run them and see what happens I guess. I haven't got to the endlinks yet, s13 looks like it might work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×