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Jason

Teddy Roosevelt rides a moose

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Update. It needs a battery and I probably haven't driven it in 6 months.

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I went to Radwood Philly. I forgot to buy my show area parking. Spotted by a Connecticut guy in the Parkinglot D'elegance y'all.

 

44033734_10215465067673774_1689500908586

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Honestly I'd prefer shitposting like this over noposting.

^^Agreed^^

 

Any pics from the show?

Any other cressida's at the show?

 

As far as not driving it in six months....join the club #realifemodelprojects.com

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I didn't really take any. I snapped one of a Lancia Integrale HF. No other cressidas. 2 - 3 MK3 supra. 3-4 MK2. 2-3 MK4. A bunch of garbage. A bunch of otherwise forgetable cars. There were two Toyota Sera's. Basically a Paseo that looks like a Mazda MX3 with butterfly doors.

 

1990-toyota-sera-gull-wing-75k-auto-ac-1

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So not to many cressida's in Philly I take it.

Just a few poopra fags from the sounds of things.

 

That sera is borderline comical.Does it come with an underpowered engine that's prone to head gasket and or main bearing failure?

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This year has been...fun. Did a whole lotta nothing with it recently. Drove it a few weeks ago to find out there's a bunch of nagging maintenance needing done.

1) The clear coat on the roof trunk and hood is shitting the bed again. 

2) The SSQV seems to be stuck.

3) Had to top off the brake master cylinder. 

4) Drivers door handle is broken.

5) Steering wheel leather is toast.

Chris sent me a bunch of trim stuff that was broken and missing since I got the paint done years ago. I put a spring clip on the speaker grille so it stays in place now!

 

I've got a bunch of money I -COULD- throw at it, but seeing how I drive it infrequently I'd rather get bang for the buck kinda stuff. Like, if I'm being honest, I'm not gonna give a fuck about control arms unless mine are rusted out or the bushings are rotted and can't hold an alignment. I just want it to look decent, be safe and run hard. 

 

I'm more interested in things like: 

1) make the AC work, make the heat work better. 

2) chase the brake leak, replace all brake lines,

3) find out whats thumping on turns (is it the dif or the axles) 

4) raise it a bit so it doesn't rub on everything

5) reclear the roof 

6) pretty up under the hood a bit

7) top of the rear window trim is shot after the paint

 

This is where y'all come in.

I've got GX81 turn signal housings, is there an interchange plug/wiring harness that goes into it? (Like, 1994 Land Cruiser or something?)

What's the 2020 reasonable value coilovers? BC? 

Who has a pair of 1jz non vvti valve covers?

What's the good short throw, stock height shifter?

Who is running a clutch fan? What shroud are you using? (I can also do 2 SPAL e-fans and get a custom shroud built)

Is there a roof wing that doesn't suck?

2DIN bluetooth head unit that connects seamlessly and doesn't transmit EMF noise?

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5 hours ago, Jason said:

2) The SSQV seems to be stuck.

 

------------------------------------------------

 

3) find out whats thumping on turns (is it the dif or the axles) 

This is where y'all come in.

Who is running a clutch fan? What shroud are you using? (I can also do 2 SPAL e-fans and get a custom shroud built)

Is there a roof wing that doesn't suck?

2) SSQVs will clog up from time to time.
Flush it with Simple Green.
You can use mineral spirits, but if you leave it in there too long, it will swell the internal little silicone check valve.
Instructions over at SupraForums: SSQV servicing
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

3) Add more LSD additive to the diff lube, or buy a helical.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Where we come in:
I ran twin FlexLite fans on my 7M without issue, but sold them to whoremouth.
I now have a twin Derale  fan set that will put out nearly twice what the FlexLite set did.
Will set them up with individual temp switches, so they will come on 20° apart, and not at all if I'm under 50 mph.

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fortune auto

 

no shroud using ls400 fan clutch and 7 m fan.  

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I'll agree on the fortune auto.  Seems to be the way most people go these days.

@ChriSOL is a rebel with his no shroud life.

If you put a new radio in Pioneers are pretty damn seemless when it comes to connecting.  Do you need android auto/iwhatever hands free crap?  They have gotten good at it.
Alpines always sound better.  It's just a fact.  I don't know that I'd run another double din in a cressida.  I had an alpine once, but I just liked the simplicity of my single din more.  But to each their own.  I just know more about radios than all the other shit I should know about when it comes to these cars.

But more to your question, if you have a new radio and you are getting that much noise the problem isn't the radio(unless its a factory defect) the problem is your installation.  Consider running better ground and power to it.

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I have a newer radio (its probably from the late 90's or early 2000's). I don't get EMI from the radio, I get it from the shitty aux cable. And iPhone doesn't have audio jack anymore so everything cabled to aux would be through at least a dongle + aux cable. 

I don't know that I have the auditory sensitivity to hear the difference between 2 top tier brands.

 

Also, in addition to new brakes lines, I'd like to do fuel lines. 2 things that would be really bad if they failed seem like pretty smart preventative maintenance. 

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7 hours ago, Jason said:

iPhone doesn't have audio jack anymore so everything cabled to aux would be through at least a dongle + aux cable. 

If you want the quality sound for voice calling and audio then this should cover you for under $300.  I don't think you'll get much better than this for the price.  Should sound damn good and be pretty straight forward to control. I don't use the iphone but for the android I've found that pioneer has made the phone quick and easy to use through the stereo.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-MVH-1400NEX-Digital-Multimedia-Receiver/dp/B07951J34N

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Where do you nerds have your gauges? I have AEM UEGO and TRU-Boost.

I've seen the 3D printed vent/clock/clamshell pods from autoextrude.com --any of ya have these?


I was considering making a dashtop pod out of sheet metal then foaming and shaping it in as I recover the cracked dash. On top of the dash looks like it's in my line of sight. Adding it above the glove box in any way imaginable looks too far away and probably make the passenger seat feel smaller. 

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I gave brian the file to replace the clock, it's the best not in the way place. Your stereo should have a clock anyways.

Also, just get a Can Bus gauge.

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This thing is still dope. Blew a brake hard line during this drive. 3 lines are already patched. Just gonna redo the whole brake system. Y’all use anything special for fresh lines front to back, or just get one of these Straight line "bends it yoursef" pre-flared toyota kits with toyota flare fittings on them? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-line-kit-Toyota-1991-1994-1993-1992-1995-1996-replace-corroded-lines/352557399044

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I use a hydraulic tool for the flaring, and one of those generic 90 degree bending/rolling tools for the bending 

 

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72485-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Transmission/dp/B06WD86RLH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=mastercool+brake+line+flaring+tool+kit&qid=1598243310&sprefix=mastercool&sr=8-3

 

It's expensive, but it's the only way to go as far as I'm concerned

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Nice find !

Just took the number, and found it on eBay for $40 less, from 100% feedback seller.

Was dreading running new brake lines for my compound brake system using the $50 flaring set that I have.

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I lost my work and storage spot in the burbs, IE pops sold his house end of December. It went to my friends shop in August to get the brake lines done. They finally got it on the lift in December, said it should probably have new fuel lines run at the same time too. It hasn't run since. 

Frustrated, I was fucking with the PFC tune to try advancing or retarding the ignition trying to chase a very cold start. I got to talking to local tuners and no-one who wanted to touch a PFC. I found one who would but he recommended switching to Link, so I did. I also no longer heard the Walbro prime up so I had the shop stick the big Walbro 525 in it. 

Still won't start, last time I was there it would crank. Does the anti-theft system allow it to crank? I forget....and I have no idea anymore. 

MAP sensor had a signal (don't know if it was a good signal). Fresh Denso coil packs. Fresh BKR7E plugs. Ignitor usefulness and Fuel pressure is unknown at this point. I guess I'll check/bypass the circuit open relay (again), check all fuses again and get ready to push it off a cliff. Is there something stupid I'm forgetting or missing or overlooking? I'm really going crazy here. I was driving out there weekly with no resolution in January and February. It's supposed to get tuned the first week of May.

 

FUCK

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Did you get a new wiring harness with the link ecu? are you still using stock fuel pump relay and power cables?

 

sell the car man, you're just wasting time on unnecessary frustration.

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Panic wire jumper harness. nothing else has changed. its the same symptoms it had on the PFC. 

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6.5+ years of no updates, I guess it's time for some. If you want the TL;DR scroll to the video.

TBH it's been very uneventful for the car. I moved a bunch of times. From the burbs to the city, then to another part of the city, then to another part, then back to the second part, then moved in with my lady, then we bought a house. It's been stored in the burbs, an hour away at my dad's place the whole time.

I drove it a little. Tried to get in the seat and put a few miles on it anytime I was out there. I took it to Radwood in maybe 2018 and 2019. One year it wouldn't start the day before I was headed there with it. Fortunately I had spare plugs and coil packs for it. Swapped the plugs and bad coil packs out and it fired right up.

The clear coat failed and slowly started to bubble and chip in places about that time. By 2020 it started failing in long lines. Around July, the first round of quarantine was lifted. I was itching to get out of the city and put some miles on it. Drove it around for a little. One of my buddies requested a rip behind the wheel so I threw him the keys. Of course when someone else is behind the wheel, something happens. The car decides to send another rusty brake hardline to the junkyard in the sky. Not a big deal as he was on my street. He apologizes profusely, I assure him that it's not the first time this happened and it's not his fault, and it will be the last time it happens. He says his buddy has a shop that he can do the work at. I say sure no worries let's get it done, tell me when.

Fast forward to 2021 and of course that dragged on for a year. Buddy's buddy is busy, etc etc. Meanwhile the whole time pops is chirping in my ear about putting the house for sale in the near future. August rolls around and I tow it to a nearby shop to be sure it's good to go if/when pop's house sells. Pops is there to help the tow guy load it. He puts jumper cables to it, fires it up, turns it around so it's easier to get out of the driveway. I get to the shop and they ask me to move it from where the tow truck dropped it because it won't start. Hook the jumper pack to it and it fires up and moves.

Sometime around October they call me up to tell me they were trying to move it and it wouldn't start. I go out, hook the jumper pack to it, it won't start. Pull and scrub the plugs and it fires up, runs on 3 cylinders, then 4 then all 6. Nothing too unusual for it from sitting. I tell them it's a JZ they all have questionable valve stem seals so they need to be started regularly. I pull it into the shop to its home...

...For the next 3 months.

Pop's house went on the market and sold immediately in December. The shop sat on it until December. They call me up "hey, your car won't start. can you come start it?" Drive an hour out, got it started again, drove an hour back. They call me again in January, "Hey this thing is gonna need fuel lines too, they're pretty rusty." Cool, just do it. A week or two later "OK its all done. It won't start again."

An hour out, it's cold AF, it won't start no matter what I do. An hour back. An hour out, new plugs and 6 new Denso coil packs. An hour back. I mess with the cold start tune in the Power FC. Assuming I boofed the tune, I initialized it, then reloaded a base 2jz map and scaled for my injectors. An hour out, an hour back. I start looking for someone to tune the PFC. No one local wants to touch PFC. "It's the same ECU as old jz's, maybe capacitor issues, Blah blah blah." I find a tuner who tunes PFC but prefers Haltech or Link. I get a Link from Panic-wire with a base map to my specs. An hour out, plug the Link in notice its not priming the 10-15yr old walbro 255. an hour back. I get a 525LPH Walbro. An hour out, drop fuel pump at shop. An hour back. New FP primes but doesn't start the engine. Only thing we can get it to do are audaciously loud backfires.

Onto another shop that's specialized in JZ's for 15+ years.. Me: Can you get this through by 5/3? I have a dyno tune appointment I booked on 2/19 for 5/4 thinking this thing was going to be running by now. Him: It's a one man show. I'll do my best but I can't 100% guarantee...On or about 4/18, onto the wrecker it goes again.

By the skin of our teeth we got it through. He called me on the morning of 5/3 that it was running on 3 cyls, had some more trouble shooting to do. So the no start was a long list of shit, notably the timing belt was off by 2 teeth--but didn't need a belt tensioner. It had been done when the cams and Fluidampr were put in. So maybe it skipped time, maybe it was installed off 2 teeth....whatever... ITS DONE. 

TL;DR Added a bunch of stuff. It runs. It's tuned.

It RIPS. 

444WHP, 375 TQ. If I never updated the parts post back in the day--
1jz, 264's/valve springs, 800cc, old school T66.

It's not face melting, but it IS surprising to be behind the wheel of this for the first time. I definitely couldn't be happier. Honestly, I think 500 to the wheel right now would be a bit more than I'd be comfortable with for the first big power jump.

After I get used to this and fix repair or swap out anything in the suspension that seems janky, then we can go looking for more.

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you don't need more power than that... anything more and the car just becomes unstable and squirrely. Sounds cool but, driving a car that is trying to kill you all the time is exhausting.

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