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Gseventythree

SUPER DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS YOU MUST FOLLOW

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VIDEO INSTALL IS COMING. . but PLEASE refer to this when getting your knuckles prepped and welded.

 

SERIALNINE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 

 

1. Removing the Stock strut/knuckle assembly from the car.

 

A. Jack up car, support securely with jackstands. Remove wheels.

B. Remove protective cap for the hub center nut. This is best done withh a chisel or a sharp flat screwdriver. Tap gently rotating the hub as you go, it will eventually pop up.

C. Loosen 32mm hub nut. Use a BIG breaker bar (with the Brakes on) or an impact gun.

D. Remove the clip holding the Brakeline to the strut. Pull the metal part of the brake line out of the holder and tuck it close to the strut. Get a hacksaw or a cutting wheel and cut a slit through the CENTER of the tab into the hole. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE BRAKELINE!!!

E. Remove the 17mm nut holding the end link to the swaybar. You will need a 5mm allen key or a pair of needlenose visegrips to hold the balljoint from rotating while you undo the nut.

F. Remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the brake caliper to the strut. Hang the caliper from the brakeline junction on the inner fender using wire or string to remove strain on the brakeline. Remove brake rotor. Remove 32mm hub nut and slide off hub.

G. If you have ABS, undo the connector. The wire and sensor will stay withh the strut.

H. Remove the 2 17mm bolts facing upwards that go through the steering arm into the knuckle.

I. LOOSEN the upper strut 21mm center nut 4 turns. DO NOT REMOVE!! This is usually under a cap.

J. Remove the 3 14mm nuts for the top hat and pull out the entire strut assembly.

K. Repeat for the other side.

 

 

 

2.Stripping the Stock strut/knuckle assembly.

 

CAUTION!!! SPRINGS ARE UNDER TENSION, ALWAYS USE MAXIMUM SAFETY MEASURES AND COMMON SENSE. IF YOU ARE NOT CAPABLE, TAKE YOUR STRUT SOMEWHERE AND GET IT DONE PROFFESIONALLY.

 

A. Use a spring compressor to hold the spring safely and undo the 21mm center nut holding the upper spring perch/top plate onto the strut. Take off the top plate, upper spring perch, and finally the spring. Discard.

B. Loosen the Gland nut. This can be done either withh a large pipe wrench, or by putting the gland nut itself in a vise and turning the entire strut. A good way to hold the strut is either reinstall the wheel, or put the two lower 17mm bolts back on into the bottom of the knuckle (all the way) and use a jackhandle or similar between them for leverage.

C. Get a drip pan or similar container, hold the strut over the container and remove the Gland nut fully. Oil should start pouring out. Give the strut rod a couple of tugs and the entire damper and internals will come out along withh more oil. THE DAMPER AND ROD ASSEMBLY WILL ALSO LEAK OIL, so be careful if you are wearing fresh new kicks.

D. Take a close look a the puny size of the stock piston. Discard.

E. Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the brake backing plate on. If you have ABS one bolt from the back will also be bolted to this plate. Keep plate and bolts for later reinstallation.

F. Remove 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor and tap the sensor GENTLY withh the back of a screwdriver or similar. Remove any other associated bolts holding the ABS wire. Remove the ABS sensor and wire assembly and keep for later reinstallation.

 

 

 

3.Drilling and Cutting the Stock strut/knuckle assembly.

 

The following steps are what SERIALNINE performs for an additional $200. These steps will prepare your knuckle to properly accept the SERIALNINE strut tube, and also allow the external adjuster of the SERIALNINE RCA/Remote Damper adjuster to pass through the bottom of the knuckle. THESE STEPS MUST BE FOLLOWED PRECISELY TO ENSURE YOUR SAFETY AND OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE. IF YOU FEEL UNSURE ABOUT DOING THIS, BRING YOUR ASSEMBLY AND THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO A PROFESSIONAL.

 

A. Put the entire assembly in a vise, holding it by the strut tube withh the BOTTOM facing you. Between the two threaded holes, in the rusty middle part, you will see the BOTTOM of the existing strut tube (the convex part), and where it is welded to the cast knuckle. You will be drilling a 1.5" hole through this part.

B. Center punch the CENTER of the convex part and using a 1.5" holesaw drill through the existing strut tube. Clean up the hole withh a file or flapper wheel to remove sharp edges and burrs.

C. Clean the area at the junction of the stock strut tube to the top of the cast knuckle withh a wire brush or wire wheel.

D. Scribe a line around the strut tube 1/4" up from the knuckle. Make sure it is straight.

E. Using a cutting wheel or a hacksaw cut through the stock strut tube. Make sure it is straight.

F. Using a file or grinder clean up your cut so it is as straight and close to 1/4" as possible.

 

 

 

4.Prepping and Welding the Stock knuckles.

 

THESE STEPS MUST BE FOLLOWED PRECISELY TO ENSURE YOUR SAFETY AND OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE. WELDING MUST BE PERFORMED BY A PROFFESIONAL. USE COMMON SENSE, GET IT DONE PROPERLY.

 

A. Mask the machined parts of the spindle withh masking tape. Thread the 17mm bolts back into the knuckle all the way.

B. Bead blast the entire knuckle. This will ensure the BEST quality weld possible. This also gets rid of all the dirt, rust, and scale so you can give it a good coat of rust paint after. If this is not possible, you can wire wheel or sand the strut tube/knuckle junction as best you can. Blow off and clean the knuckle to prepare for welding.

C. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Clamp the stock knuckle and the SERIALNINE strut tube together and MAKE SURE IT IS ABSOLUTELY STRAIGHT. The BOTTOM machined surface of the knuckle MUST BE PARALLEL withh the TOP of the SERIALNINE strut tube. If this gets welded not straight, your camber settings will differ from side to side. MAKE SURE IT IS STRAIGHT and CLAMP IT.. The top surface of the knuckle is a bare casting, these may differ between individual knuckles. DO IT RIGHT.

D. WELD them together. SERIALNINE uses the TIG process withh 4130 rod. These can be TIG'ed, MIG'ed, or STICK welded. All are suitable as long as the WELDER IS A PROFFESIONAL and PROPER PENETRATION is performed. IT'S YOUR LIFE.. MAKE SURE IT IS DONE PROPERLY.

E. After cooling, Paint the entire knuckle/strut tube assembly withh RUST paint or any paint suitable for use on bare metal.

F. Reinstall the hub, tightening to 200lb/ft (as tight as you can withh a BIG breaker bar or withh an impact), stake the nut withh a hammer and some sort of chisel type device. Reinstall the dustcap, install the brake plate and the ABS sensor. WERD. If you're still reading this give yourself props. Get some food, a drink or have a smoke.

 

 

 

 

ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING THE SERIALNINE/STANCE COILOVERS

1.ASSEMBLY

A. Take your new STANCE coilovers out of the box. Admire them and look at how oversized the body is. Play withh the adjuster. If STANCE did their job your coilovers will have the SERIALNINE replaced parts missing from the kit and the bolts organized somewhere on the coilovers or in the box.

B. Take your new SERIALNINE adaptor kit out of the box. Admire it. Look at how dope the parts are. Think how cool your car is gonna be withh this setup. Imagine yourself drifting at D1.

C. Take the SERIALNINE front plates (the ones withh the slotted holes) and the STANCE front dampers, install the SERIALNINE plate onto the STANCE pillow mount. Loosely screw in the bolts (withh washers) into the OUTERMOST holes on the pillow mount. The hardware should already be in the pillow mount, if not, check the box. The orientation does not matter, just make sure you have them assembled facing each other. The FLAT parts of the pillow mounts will face THE CENTER of the car when installed.

D. Remove STANCE rear pillow mount (it should be on there loosely). Take the SERIALNINE rear plates and install the pillow mount through the the BOTTOM. Bolt the plate together withh the supplied 5mm bolts. Tighten to 18lb/ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

E. Reinstall the rear pillow mount onto the rear damper. Install the 14mm nut just snug. You will need to loosen this again to adjust your height. If you cannot snug it loosen the spring perch lockring and thread the spring perch down enough to snug the upper 17mm nut. AFTER you snug the nut, thread the perch back up until the spring touches the upper plate and turn an additional ONE TURN.(two turns for GR+ PRO) LOCK the lockring up against the springperch.

F. Loosen the STANCE lower mount lockring and thread the lower mount ONTO the damper all the way till it bottoms. This will be the SHORTEST damper length, or lowest height withh full travel. Make sure both lengths and spring heights match. We will start here.

G. Take the STANCE/SERIALNINE front dampers and thread the STANCE lower mount lockring all the way up. Coat the inside of the SERIALNINE strut tube withh Anti-Seize or White Lithium Grease. (this is to ease adjustment) Thread the damper into your newly prepared SERIALNINE strut tubes/knuckles all the way until it bottoms. This will be the SHORTEST damper length, or lowest height withh full travel. Make sure they are the same length and the spring heights match. The front springs should have NO PRELOAD. LOCK the spring perches in place.

 

2.INSTALLATION

 

FRONT

A. Take your new SERIALNINE/STANCE front coilover and install, starting withh the three top studs. Thread the 14mm top nuts on and tighten to 35lb/ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. When installed, the SERIALNINE camber plates will be slightly angled, this gives additional caster when running maximum negative camber. REMEMBER the Flat part of the STANCE pillow mount should face the CENTER of the car.

B. Install lower assemblies reverse of removal. Tighten 17mm bolts to 70lb/ft. Install cotter pin. Secure brakeline to strut body using 2 zipties.

C. Install the SERIALNINE Swaybar end link through the swaybar TOWARDS the engine and through the existing hole in the lower control arm. Tighten the 19mm nut holding the stud withh a 6mm allen key. The order on the stud going through the LCA should go like this: washer facing down-bushing facing down-control arm-bushing facing up-washer facing up-nut. Tighten 13mm nut until the bushings are 3/4 their original size or flush to the washers.

D. Test fit wheel to check clearance to the strut. Use spacers if needed. Anything over 4mm will require a longer studs or a bolt on spacer. USE COMMON SENSE. Check fender clearance.

E. Lower car down onto blocks as it is now way to low to get off of your jack.

F. Approximate your desired camber and tighten the 4 5mm camber adjustment bolts to 15lb/ft DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. When adjusting camber it is best to loosen the bolts so they are far away from the top of the plate, and only jack the car up enough to barely take the weight off of the suspension. Adjust, then tighten. This way the bolts dont scratch up the top plates during adjustment. The arrangement of these bolts is variable. Move them accordingly to accomodate your desired camber setting.

 

REAR

A. Remove wheel.

B. Remove stock strut assembly. Take out the Rear seat. There are two pull tabs on the seat bottom pull those and pull up on the seat bottom till it pips out. There are two 10mm bolts holding the rear seatback in, take those off and pull the seatback UPWARDS the rear seatback should pop out.Take off parcel shelf (snaps out) Undo the three 12mm nuts from the cover plate and discard the nuts and coverplate. Take off the three 12mm nuts from the rear strut upper mount top plate while supporting the suspension. Undo the 19mm lower through-bolt holding the shock in. The trick to getting this one out is to lower the suspension as far as possible to allow the bolt to pass under the UCA. Hammer the stock shock out. It will fall, remove it from the car, Discard.

C. IMPORTANT. Look closely at the lower mount that you just took the shock out of, on the REAR side there is a split washer. You will need to tap this OUTWARDS SLIGHTLY to give more room for the new damper to be installed easily.

D. Take the SERIALNINE reducer bushings and install them into the STANCE lower mounts. Looking at the STANCE lower mount from the side, you will see it is offset, insert the SERIALNINE bushing through the SHORTER SIDE. It will still be offset. The damper goes into the car withh the LONGER SIDE facing REARWARD AGAINST the split washer that you just moved by tapping..

E.*OPTIONAL* Due to the large diameter of the STANCE lower mount, under extreme lowering the upper control arm contacts the body of the lower mount. It is advisable to grind,cut or hammer the upper control arm slightly (2mm) where it contacts. This is at the REARSIDE of the inner V of the control arm, closest to the balljoint . This is only required for extremely lowered cars, the metal is very soft and can easily be bent out of the way.

F. Install the new SERIALNINE/STANCE rear coilover. Carefully shoot the pillow mount studs through the body. THE SERIALNINE LOGO FACES THE REAR OF THE CAR. It only goes in one way. This way if your car is has no interior, the logo can be seen through the rear window. Thread the 12mm nuts onto the studs handtight. Line up the lower mount. LONGER SIDE FACING THE BACK. ( the offset should be to the right) Raise the suspension withh a jack and shoot the 19mm bolt through fron the rear install the nut and tighten to 70lb/ft. Tighten the three 12mm upper pillow mount nuts to 18lb/ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

 

G. Install wheels. Check fender clearance. If it clears, you need wider rims.

H. Lower the car onto blocks as it is WAY too low to get off your jack.

 

3.RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

 

If you assembled your setup correctly, the lockrings for the lower mounts should be loose and the spring perches should be locked up tight. This will help you adjust the ride height easily, as you can turn the entire damper withh the wrenches If the perches are locked up.

FRONT

A. When adjusting height, ALWAYS take a measurement first. The simplest way is to measure from the spring perch to the lower mount. Any precise measurement will do. Write them down. If you are a serious Racer/Drifter keep them in a log book. LOOSEN THE 21mm CENTER nut on the STANCE's. This allows the entire damper body to turn freely. It helps if you support the suspension while threading the damper up or down. Snug the lockring onto the SERIALNINE strut tube. Tighten the 21mm Center nut on the STANCE's to 80lb/ft (as tight as you can)

B. Lower the car and roll it back and forth to settle the suspension. Readjust if neccessary.

C. TIGHTEN THE LOCKRING AGAINST THE STRUT TUBE AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN. this is very important on strut suspension. If they are loose your ride height will change RANDOMLY and all your measurements and setup will be gone.

D.Adjust the damper, usually start at 6 clicks (GR+ PRO RACE 12/10), 10 clicks (GR+ or GR+ PRO 10/ 8 ) Readjust from there.

 

REAR

A. When adjusting height, ALWAYS take a measurement first. The simplest way is to measure from the spring perch to the lower mount. Any precise measurement will do. Write them down. If you are a serious Racer/Drifter keep them in a log book. LOOSEN THE 17mm CENTER nut on the STANCE's. This allows the entire damper body to turn freely. It helps if you support the suspension while threading the damper up or down. Snug the lockring onto the STANCE lower mount. Tighten the 17mm Center nut on the STANCE's to 40 lb/ft .

B. Lower the car and roll it back and forth to settle the suspension. Readjust if neccessary.

C. TIGHTEN THE LOCKRING.

D. Adjust the damper Usually start at 6 clicks (GR+ PRO RACE 12/10), 10 clicks (GR+ or GR+ PRO 10/ 8 ) Readjust from there.

 

Apply your new SERIALNINE decals ON YOUR CAR. . Dont be a pussy and put them on your rear windows or something lame like that. If you need more. . Just ask.

 

AFTER you've finalized your ride height, GET AN ALIGNMENT. This is VERY important. Your car will feel VERY weird and actually be UNSAFE TO DRIVE withhout a proper alignment.

 

Take your car for a drive. Dont be a HERO. Feel it out first. Make sure everything is secure and you didn't forget anything. . Take pics. . Take videos. . most of all. .

 

ENJOY!!

 

G.

 

 

SERIALNINE products are for RACING/OFF ROAD use only. SERIALNINE accepts NO RESPONSIBILITY for Damage,loss, or harm caused by the installation of said racing parts.

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Installation went pretty smooth. The Stance's are a little weird to adjust, but Wieder and I figured it out.

 

Good shit G, good shit.

 

- Ian.

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Werd.. hope the instructions helped.. I got a video install coming soon .. Much more exciting and fun to watch/follow. . .but the super long assed techno-geek written ones have everything in there so I hope they helped.

 

G.

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i cant wait for video, i have been showing the 7m tune and wheel fitment and everyone is saying it is so dope.

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The section where the tube is clamped for welding is a little vague on where/how it is supposed to be clamped to the spindle.

 

What is the diameter of the area on the tube that gets weld?

 

How much for tubes only?

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$225 plus shipping (usually $35) for the tubes..

 

They just need to be clamped top to bottom squarely against the knuckle/spindle. . I have some pics ill put up. . But basically its a big asses long clamp that goes from the top of the SERIAL

NINE strut tube to the machined surface on the bottom of the knuckle/spindle . . .Just so that when you weld them they are parallel to the knuckle/spindle. On some of the X8 ones i've done .. there is a little bit of movement as the knuckle itself is forged or cast so the surface isn't machined square. . Most of the AE/X7 ones i've done sit pretty flat. . you could just hold it and tack it. .

 

The tube ID is 2 inch. . They fit most nissans and toyotas. withh welded on struts. . (im doing a Y33 Q45 soon withh these) The OD of my tube is 2.5 inch. .

 

G.

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I'm still thinking about buying a set of tubes from you G. I still need to look at my rear suspension and figure out how I'm going to set it up, I'll let you know.

 

- Ian.

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Im making these rear pieces up for my buddies AE86 (who is running stances as well. .) and we're gonna try them on kenny's MA60. . they're basicaly fancy upper perches. . and a new shorter rear lower mount so you have adequate room to dump the car. . These may work on MX63 and any other car that has that same sort of arrangement on the rear upper. . . . You know the upside down cup withh the hole for the shock mount. .

 

 

G.

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