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Bill

I heart missile style

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Im running Greddy pulleys. . . . . :wink:

 

 

I got it (pulley kit) for a lil bit of elbow grease and a favour.. . :lol: The 2J pulley kit is the most expensive pulley kit they make. .around $400 CDN..

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didn't they stop making 2jz-gte in late 1998 here in america? So anything else after 2000 would have vvl-ti and would be non turbo anyways. A non-turbo water pump housing is not going to work I have already been done that road. My waterpump is made by AISIN along withh half the other parts on my engine. My aftermarket pulley only cost me $40 bucks.

 

no, toyota redesigned the 2JZ-GTE water pump in 2000 as part of a recall. so yes eventhough the last 2JZ-GTE was sold in 1998 in America, they changed the part design in 2000. Thats why its only $120 and comes as a package deal when you order a new water pump.

 

and i think i got you all beat, $20 for my Toyota OEM pulley. 8)

 

That motor looks very clean.

 

When I worked at toyota as a parts man, you find out very fast that withh water pumps and stuff there are many change up part numbers. Most of the time withh the change up you get a more complet part for less i.e. 2jz waterpumps.

 

Jeremy

 

p.s. the JZA70 supra was only made till 93 so you have a 93 motor. The 93.5 and newer are MK4 and 2JZ-GTE.

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p.s. the JZA70 supra was only made till 93 so you have a 93 motor. The 93.5 and newer are MK4 and 2JZ-GTE.

 

LOL that's wtf I was thinking when I was told it was a '95... I didn't think much of it at the time :lol: it's a 1JZ, and it's from a JZA70.. good enough :D

 

My mx83 is gutted quite nicely, no engine, bumper, fenders, etc.. sitting high

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Nice I see your finally going 1jz. We need more JZX73's and JZX83's!

 

join the crew

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Got my sump today, everything is good except some turdwad cut one of the oil return line couplings off the oil return part with a hacksaw (guess he was going to weld it up for a single) big deal, I'll just weld a new fitting on.

 

I got a belt to eliminate the AC I tried a 5060730 (6-rib 730" $56CAD) but the tentioner was a tad tight. So I traded it for a 5060735 (6-rib 735") which is better, but still just past the tentioner's adjustment range marks. If the 2JZ-GTE waterpump pulley is smaller it will probably be perfect, otherwise it's fine.

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dayco, but I think you can get one by just mentioning that you need a mulit-rib with 6-ribs and 735" seems to be the standard for measure according to my belt measuring tool.

 

I've got Mark II jzx81 front and rear bumpers with lip on the ship for $250 and new front fenders for $35 8) I'm going to be painting the engine compartment and frame soon, I still don't know what colour.

 

Bright Red non-met, cyan-blue met., med green met., or black/silver 2-tone... I don't know..?? what you guys think? :lol:

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why worry about the color in the engine bay.

 

white. battleship grey. something LIGHT makes it easier to see in and around and thus makes it easier to work on. plus it aids in heat dissipation.

 

then you can decide what ever you want to paint the rest of your car when you come to that juncture.

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hey feisar boy, i am pushing along withh the S13 rear IRS. Got my hands on a complete rear end withh 5 plug, diff and driveshaft. If it looks like I can do it, I will offer my Saner sway to you first. If you don't want it, I will put it on ebayyyyyyyyyy.

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the bar is mine!!!! I've already got my ATS 2-way and new hubs with fresh bushings are going in soon, so all I'll need next is a swaybar back there.

 

and I'm doing the body sometime between now and mid august, and I'm sandblasting most of the front frame. yes I had the idea of 50% non-met gray for the frame, I'll probably just do that, I'm not building a show car here :lol: so I don't care. I really like the 2.5GT black/silver or bright red.

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you should do the black/silver 2.5gt style. that would be hot, but so would red. :shock:

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I wanted mine the black/silver too as it looks soo good, and my car is already the black, so i would only need to do the lower half in a diff code. I say do the same.

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update on the chassis

 

it's stripped front to back, ahead of the driver seat it's just steel with the subframe and original suspension, no brake parts at all, no drivetrain except the diff, no wiring except the rear harness, no dash/heatercore/AC/etc.. no gas lines or brake lines, and no gastank. Engine's got the mounts and sump attached now, gotta get the chassis ready before it goes in.

 

still not sure of the paint colour. Since I do have to sandblast a few minor areas of the chassis, I'm going to do an inside/out paint.

 

Brian, you still have that pic of where to massage the tranny tunnel? I can't find it.

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I'll post a pic, I was just pressure washing the frame, and it's mint quality. super clean under all the slimy oil spray. about 6 or 7 little dots of rust here and there. 10000X less rusty than my silver 83

 

I was just pressure washing near the front window and it cracked right across :| guess that's an excuse for a crystal clear new windshield :D already pulled that beast out. it's easy to take out a widshield at 34deg. C

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This thing was a SLUDGE bucket. three different rustproof coatings on top on eachother + a layer of slimy oil and dirt. There's still some gold oily slime I have to get off of there :x

 

jzx83_1.jpg

jzx83_2.jpg

jzx83_3.jpg

 

Getting ready to do some spot welding :lol:

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as clean as it is now, it's gonna get a whole lot cleaner than that 8)

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feisar, you are totally inspiring me to completely rebuild my car as well. only put back in exactly what i need...nothing else.

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I hear you man. It took me a long time to establish my daily and my finances so I could do this, can't wait to drive. having a shop with a hoist helps too. as long as I can get in there, it's usually busy.

 

I drenched it with GM engine shampoo, then hit it with a pressure washer, then repeated that until it looked clean. I will have to wipe the last areas with gas or engine shampoo to get rid of them. then I'm going to sandblast aby rust areas, adjust the front bumper mount to match the jzx81 front, spot weld all the seams, remove the tar, and paint the works.

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