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Bill

I heart missile style

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yes. because that's not what it's going to cost me where i live.

 

where do you get a decent t3 for $300?

 

and can i run the factory ecu with a t3? i thought i'd need an ems for that.

 

I'm open to ideas here.

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if youre running stockish boost you should be able to get away with a piggyback ecu: e-manage etc. PFC if you wanna get $$crazy$$. if you wanna up the boost you have to throw some check valves inline or a BCD so the ECU doesnt see more than 15psi anyway.

 

www.cheapturbos.com is where i got a NEW t3t04 50trim for $600. they have a few t3t04 that are bigger than mine and able to crank more power for the same money too. then you have to get injectors and shit too.....so its really more of... "where are your priorities?" more money, or more track days?

 

theres a thread going on ziptied right now about 1uz shit.

 

http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=17134.0

 

go read and watch videos.

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my priorities have been changing in the last year or so, and i don't have as much time and space to work on stuff. don't think for a minute i don't like the 1J, damn, if i could i would just throw the whole setup into my IS300...

 

i just think a clean 1UZ hooked to an R154 would be a solid track setup that will probably not require much attention. I don't want a lot of power, i think i just want about 250rwhp that's really reliable and less complicated.

 

from what i hear, the 1UZ factory intake manifold is fine as-is for power, itb's are cool, but they apparently don't change the fact that it is an fe head design. and the factory ECU is really de-tuned.

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my priorities have been changing ...... I don't want a lot of power, i think i just want about 250rwhp that's really reliable and less complicated.

 

maybe you should consider selling the r154 setup too in favor of a w58....after purchasing a suitable w58 and clutch, that move should put roughly an additional $600 back into your budget which would then be used to adapt your tranny to the 1uz. w58s can take some power through them. 300rwhp/300rwtq shouldnt pose any issues, not to mention clutches are cheaper and easier to change, trannys are cheaper and more plentiful, and if you really intend to build a track beast, theres tons of different gear sets available for the w-series depending on which car or truck you source the gearbox from.

 

just some food for thought

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well, the W would work but i'd hate to have any issues once i work out the bell/adapter, if i could pick, i'd like to try one of those aluminum solstice/canyon/h3 R154's and throw on a dellows 1UZ bell.

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just go small single! if your worried about response.

 

i can't afford to do it right, not now anyway. so i'd rather sell my 1J's and turbo stuff, and go 1UZ/R154 withh an EMS. it will cost less than all the 1J stuff i have is worth. plus there's another 1K in stuff i have to do to the rest of the car anyway.

 

i mean, my ct12's are holding for now, and might hold for years.. but if they start dumping at the beginning of the summer, i'll have to park the thing again and wait for more turbos. in canada we only get a few months of decent weather, so when your car fails in may, you're screwed unless you have assloads of money for customs and fast shipping if you can even find what you need.

I guess what i'm saying is, i really need to simplify my car, and make it solid for track days. having the 1J where i live is going to be too costly to support.

 

First off I live in Canada as well and I get PLENTY of nice weather. . . It snows like MAYBE 10 days out of the year. . The rest of winter is rain or just kinda cold, withh many months of Beautiful warm weather. . Where you live must suck. . I'm from Manitoba and I'd have LONG since killed myself if i HAD to live there. . That said though. . Their car scene is BIGGER THAN HERE!!! for the two months of summer they have there ( and in Ontario for that matter) They do it up LARGE . . . Vancity's Motorsports scene has been dead for a LONG TIME. . .Second of all I dont think getting 1J parts or any parts to support your project are really difficult. . I think you've just lost your drive for the current project and and bandaided that withh ANOTHER newer fresher one .. You've gotten parts from japan man. . You're resourceful, dont lose the drive . . Just finish it and drive it. . save up the $$ for decent parts.. KEEP IT SIMPLE .. I vote AGAINST a standalone, for a small turbo setup nothing beats a simple piggyback. . LOTS of 1J's making upwards of 400hp on AFC's and E-manage's . . I dont think you need that much hp. .. 350 is a good number for starters, esp cuz your car is light. .TONS of drift cars in Japan have completely stock engines . . .the main thing is to keep it simple, that way you dont get dragged down. . The last thing you wanna do is complicate things withh a standalone that you have no experience fuckin withh . . You're gonna have to rely on other pple to help you out of email back and forth etc.. K.I.S.S. keep it simple stupid. I built my X8 in two months withh $6000 and one goal in mind. To have a solid, reliable drift car. And i did, It runs beautifully, ALL stock save for SAFC, ORC clutch, Ebay intercooler, 3" dp and 3.5" Exhaust. . Even my fuel pump is stock JZX90 . . .only problem i'v ever had is blowing an intercooler pipe off (boosting in 4th)on the highway after it got loosened from the wall tap. . Granted my car is not as extravagant and nice as yours (actually its a beater) But the goal was met. And quickly.

You already have all the pieces to the puzzle man. . Just stick withh it a little longer. .

 

G.

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well, i have to say this, you nailed it G.

 

The thing is, i'm learning all this as i go like most other people, and even though my car looks good, it's not even ready for the track. I have a lot of little problems (and not anal stuff, i mean like broken suspension bolts, horrid alignment, poor driveshaft angle, and a really strange slipping clutch that only slips when it's hot above 6K, and other things, even with the clutch system adjusted properly), it really needs to be built again. My wiring job was just to borderline working, and i tried to build the car from a pile of rusty crap, so lots of stuff is not really right since i replaced every damn thing.

 

basically, to make my car right, i need to build it again. start over. G, I know you have far more experience with builds, and I'm sure you did things, made decisions in your build that are totally different than what i did, and I have to do it again, cause it wasn't right the first time, either because of time or money, but usually out of lack of knowledge.

 

I

 

I have to pull the motor anyway, and I'm not that serious about selling out, i'm just looking for good offers on the motor right now, and if anyone wants it for the right price, I'll go 1UZ and just do it right the second time, and it will not be a bad thing, and it won't cost any more than what the 1J is worth.

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ok look, you want to help me save my project, help me out with a few little things and i'll consider it:

 

My main prob is the turbos. i've already replaced them, and they seem ok, but i want to replace them since most people who run the CT's hard usually kill them, i'm not really expecting much life from them. any ideas? T3 mani with what on it? i don't have much to spend.

 

I've got an old FCON for the 1J too, it has all the accessories.. is this worth using if i get the turbo sorted? or should i sell it for something else?

 

I think i can get the suspension in the rear sorted using some arms/bolts from a good southern cressida, unless anyone is willing to dig some good rear suspension up for me (as pulled from the subframe with all the hardware)

 

i think i can work out the clutch problem, even if i have to get a new clutch, these 3 things would be all i need really.

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Subframe DONE i have like 4 of them avail. no rust. . They cheap. I get special discount on cressida parts from wreckers. . They kinda sponsor me . What else. . F-CON sell it. .buy and AFC they are lik $200 street price. ..I can find you one if you want. . Actually I have on available soon. .should be cheap. . Done. . Go to Kineticmotorsport.com find something and let me know what it is.. i get deep discounts there . . Ill ask my buddy what turbo hes running on his 1J is spools by 3600rpm and has pretty good top end. . think it was cheap too . . . Stick withh it man. .honesly buy a car here and drive it back lol.. . lots of mint ones here. . they just cost too much for my blood. . prolly around 2-4k .. but MINT. . like under 150000k. . Keep in touch. .

 

G.

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well the chassis and subframe are good on my car. it's the bolts and arms in the rear that i need, bad.

 

I need everything as unbolted from the subframe, including the hubs, cv's, and all the bolts. I have a good subframe chassis, i can bolt these up to. i don't need the brakes but it would be nice to keep the rotors on to seal up the ebrake house. can you shoot me a pic of what they look like, and the bolt heads too, i might just take the whole thing, +a diff house would work for me too.

 

please let me know more about this dude's turbo. I'm not lookng for more than 300whp out of a t3 or whatever. I just want stock+ performance with reliability and rebuild ability.

 

looks like I'll give this a try. I'll save the 1UZ manual for the IS300.

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I had a pipe dream today.

 

what if i combine an n/a setup with low boost for the 1J? does this actually work or will i blow the budget on cams and shit before seeing any results?

 

I'd like to see 300+whp at like 10psi. is this possible?

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i think people are making like 390 withh 16 psi tuned ? heres a vid of one.

but yeah.. he has some mods, a single set up.. but 16psi and almost 400hp.. that would be fucken good enough for me.

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Ummmm. 1JZ-GTE's make 300RWHP like stock dude. . look at Matt's graph . .And that is withh NO fuel correction. . 1J's run quite rich in the midrange to top. . I had only an AFC and a wideband rolling around in my car, and you can notice a BIG difference. . I should dyno my car one of these days. . Only reason i havent is cuz our local dyno shop (dyno dynamics) changed ownership and fuckin sucks ballsacks to go to now. .And the only closeby dyno is a mustang dyno which ALWAYS rates like 20% lower . . Or the dynojet that reads 20% higher lol. . So i just figured, Fuck numbers and go by how it works. . Its FUCKING fast. . . clutch kick middle of second and it'll lay two strips right through to the limiter . . .On a cold night and only .8 BAR. Its pretty nutz from 100-170. . $50 for a manual boost controller and you're up another 50-75 HP easily. . But withh the mods on my car Im prolly a little under 300 @ the wheels. .

 

I've check out some turbos. .And its basically what you wanna spend. . Journal bearing turbos are all around $850ish. . Ball Bearing turbos are around $1200ish. . i MAY be able to hookitup a lil. . I was thinkin like a lil GT3071 or GT3076 or something. . My buddies is a T61 or sum shit. .

 

G.

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driftmotion has a kit coming out, kit will make around 500hp at about 1200$...i dont got full info on it....but yeah... bpu 1jz gets me creaming my pants....

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yeah, driftmotion 1JZ bpu setup for $1200?, that would be my ticket to ride right there. would be nice if it were also available as a straight up replacement of the stock ct12's (manifold with a single) that the ecu and injectors can pretty much manage without much trouble.

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If you're runing stockish boost. . you dont need many upgrades. . Close friend of mine made over 500whp withh only JDM2JZ 440's and an AFC. . Of course it had a big fucking turbo. . but the supposrting mods are minimal. .

 

G.

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480whp at 20psi is what my buddy did. . T61 dual ball bearing (garrett) p trim, .58a/r turbine. . ebay mani withh custom work, tial 44mm, 3.5" dp

15psi at like 3600 I think...

 

G.

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ok. i was just looking into the T61.. looks good. so does the GT3040/R. Kinetic has a whole fucking monster fuckload of turbos that i'd probably be able to use but i don't even know where to start.

 

but hold the phone! Driftmotion has a neat kit too;

 

http://store.driftmotion.com/productdetail...duct_id_int=401

 

driftmotion's CT26 manifold kit.. wondering if this is a good idea? grab a rebuilt CT26, this kit, an AFC, mod my dp, add a BOV and go? do CT26's stuff their oil seals as often as the CT12's? cause i can probably get a pretty nice rebuilt/upgraded CT26 and all this stuff for the price of just an aftermarket turbo. the .57 trim CT26's are able to get over 400hp, and seem to hold up well.

 

just an idea, probably the most reliable setup i've seen for the $$$ spent.

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stock twins are on death row, but kickin until they kick the can. I'll go single when that happens.

 

new stuff going in this week:

4-point omp harness

new hangers and v-band for the exhaust

driftmotion ps line

driftmotion full clutch line

largus rear sway with my old aurora endlinks

energy bushings for the sway

tow hooks for the front and back (i've got none)

 

modding my fake bride brix II seats for non-asian fit (not cause loss of feeling in my feet cause my ass is too wide) :oops: no these seats are just too narrow, and i'm 175lbs.

 

going back to the mx83 diff, re-weld the subframe, and put in the ATS diff I bought a million years ago.

 

at least the snow melted, i haven't seen the car for a few months, litterally.

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and the car is going to see it's first track event on may 25th

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finally got the blue heap of shit out of the mud and water.

 

installed the driftmotion clutch and ps lines, nice :thumbsup:

 

clutch is still being an ass, now the thing pops when letting it up. makes a click sound. wtf? i might have to take the assembly apart and find out why it's acting completely retarded, like not holding at high rpms when it's hot and shit. the clutch is still like new, no material in the bell area, even the orange centerforce paint is shiny.. i think there's some binding in the shaft, and the release bearing is old anyway, so it'll give me a reason to change it, and maybe throw in a rear main seal while i'm there.

 

after taking it for a drive, i'm kinda worried the twin gayness isn't going to hold out as long as it should.

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cheap vband clamps are made of ass.

 

just taking a break from working on my new exhaust hangers, I went to add in a 3" $30 v-band (X02 racing) and the thing isn't made properly, so it leaves a big leaking gap when clamped (.08"). i tried to mod the clamp so it would work, now it doesn't want to even clamp together and half the spot welds on the clamp itself all broke from crushing it.

 

guess you get what you pay for. just fucken pissed when i try something new i'm not familiar with and it kicks me square in the teeth. fuck you v-band shit cakes. I'm not going to pay $100 for a vband if it might show up the same anyway.

 

*rant off*

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