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toycoma

hydrolic hand brake for the drifty, installed-ish.

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so i put the hand brake in but it will not be fuctional until saturday because the flare kit is at the shop. 120 miles away.

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And what happens if you slam he foot brake while you're pulling it?
your foot brake applies more pressure???

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Sorry as I understand it when that brake is up the rears are basically cut off. So all pressure is going to the front. Sould this damage the MC?

 

Man I hope it works out for ya. I want one too.

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Sorry as I understand it when that brake is up the rears are basically cut off. So all pressure is going to the front. Sould this damage the MC?

 

Man I hope it works out for ya. I want one too.

when its up?? when its up the fluild is suppose to flow all the way from the MC to the rear calipers. then when you pull back on the lever, it just takes the fluid that is in the hand brake piece and the line and applies pressure to the rear calipers. how much though i dont know and will it be enough to lock up the tires at certain speeds? i hopefully will be finding out the answer to that this weekend.

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that should work great. i wanna know what you think of it when it's together.

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I cant wait to hear how it works out :) Btw, is that a staging brake or what?
yeah, staging brake. they now cost 108 from mckenzie motorsports or 147 direct from cnc even though a little over a year ago someone bought one from cnc for 95 dollars.

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If you stand on the foot brake while you pull the hydro brake the wheels stay locked. Dont use them both at once.
so you couldnt use this in a autox or gymkhana race then to help rotate the car while braking. What i mean is, you go into a turn and you get some understeer while braking, so then you could pull the hand brake and make the rears have more pressure to help rotate the car but then that could cause something to basicly lock up the brakes and they would stay locked until you lossen the bleeder screws or something to relieve the pressure??

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it shouldnt stay locked unless a check valve found its way on there, which it shouldnt have.

 

the only thing that hand brake does is compress the fluid thats already in the cylinder and lines in on itself. you dont need a reservoir because when its not engaged, fluid just passes through it like its a big brake line.

 

we've had something like this on the past couple cars we've built, they are the shit but i still dig a good stiff cable system that you can input a little on top of your foot braking. staging brakes allow you to kinda of do this still, but its got a lot to do withh cylinder sizing and how much input you're applying to hand brake/foot brake. they can interfere withh each other, obviously, since they share the same rear lines.

 

typically, a hydraulic hand brake should go to a seperate caliper entirely, so you can use it like a cable system withhout worrying about stretching out the cable and have super-mega-lockup or really light input, depending on the situation, and not interfere withh your foot brake when they are used in conjunction. when you use a staging break as a hydraulic system, you're basically just intersecting the rear main brake channel, and using foot and hand brake cylinders at the same time makes the feeling a little...funky, for lack of a better word. it will still work, we've never had any lock up on us or anything, but really a dedicated caliper is the best way to do it.

 

oh yeah, dont yank too hard on that CNC part before you get lines and fluid to it. the seals can be a little brittle sometimes and people can damage them if they pull it and its not fully functional.

 

cheers!

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yeah..... what he said.

Anyway, update??

It's in. It works and I am going t be loving this thing once I get a chance to really use it.

To answer some question...

If you are on the brakes, the handle becomes really hard to even move.

 

Now this part. What happens if you pull the hand brake then hit the brakes?? I have yet to do it but I am pretty sure the foot brake will most likely pull the hand brake handle back to the "off" location. Maybe if you hit you foot pedal hard enough it could yank the hand brake out of your hand???

 

Either way, for 120 or so total, this thing is worth the money IMO. No stupid pads to replace for the parking brake, no cable to adjust, no cables to break. Not much to worry about except maybe a few more points in your brake system that could leak.

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Not much to worry about except maybe a few more points in your brake system that could leak.

 

not much to worry about other than total brake system failure? sounds like a winner!

 

ill trust mikey on this one, but watch those "points"

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Not much to worry about except maybe a few more points in your brake system that could leak.

 

not much to worry about other than total brake system failure? sounds like a winner!

 

mister negative over here. yeah, the brake system could fail and the brake system could fail at any given time withh out doing this mod to it when you factor in that the car is over 17 years old now. But I have replaced all the calipers last year when one of the fronts was leaking. because the seal on the piston went bad. talk about system failure. it was fun haha.

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[quote name='El Nagro']Did you have to install any check valves for it not to lock up the front brakes when you pull the handle??[/quote]no, you cut your rear brake line, feed it into the hand brake then it comes out of the hand brake and back into the brake line to the rear calipers.

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I installed mine a month or 2 back. Its a 3/4 master cyl so it requires a bit more travel but less effort...still it doesnt help that my arms are painted on :(

 

If you want it to lock really savagely, lightly tap the footbrake (very lightly)before you reef on the handbrake, this seems to multiply the pressure in the lines heaps and makes it easier.

 

The people that make them strongly suggest that you dont use both brakes at once as i guess its a possibility that you could blow seals/lines withh so much pressure.

-Troy

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I installed mine a month or 2 back. Its a 3/4 master cyl so it requires a bit more travel but less effort...still it doesnt help that my arms are painted on :(

 

If you want it to lock really savagely, lightly tap the footbrake (very lightly)before you reef on the handbrake, this seems to multiply the pressure in the lines heaps and makes it easier.

 

The people that make them strongly suggest that you dont use both brakes at once as i guess its a possibility that you could blow seals/lines withh so much pressure.

-Troy

hmmm, mine locks up fine. my teammates and i went out for a little drift session yesterday and then to eat. on the way back i locked up the rear brakes like nothing at 60 - 65 mph while driving straight down the high way. the teammates where very impressed withh how well the hand brake works haha.

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how smooth is the engagement. is it touchy, like could you use it to stop smoothly in the rain without touching the brake pedal, or just slow down the car a little at 60? i'm interested cause i've already got my brake line running through my armrest.

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how smooth is the engagement. is it touchy, like could you use it to stop smoothly in the rain withhout touching the brake pedal, or just slow down the car a little at 60? i'm interested cause i've already got my brake line running through my armrest.
no on the rain and slow down a bit from 60 yes. remember, front brakes do about 90 percent of braking or some crap, so you really don't want to try and use it to stop the car at a light or anything like that. i like to pull on it though while driving to let the pads clean the rotors. my rear rotors always look like they hardly do any braking when driving normal and ussually have more rust on them then the front after it sits while raining.

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so how hard was it cutting the tunnel to get the lines routed thereand puttign up a bracket

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so how hard was it cutting the tunnel to get the lines routed thereand puttign up a bracket
i didn't cut the tunnel. i drilled a hole under the seat close to where the rear brake line runs along the frame rail thing. i ran it up through the hole, along the trans tunnel to the handle then back fom the handle down the tunnel through the hole and back to the rea brake line. but on the mx83, there is a grommet by the trans tunnel that i probably could of ran the lines through instead.

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I butchered my passenger side floor and boot floor to fit the lines...that way i didnt have to cut any actual lines :) just screwed the line into the original t pieces....looks ghetto but its the easiest to return to stock

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