Bought a Mark II JZX81

[brian 0]

Gotta love those shitty old electrolytic caps. Tow home from LA must have been spendy too, that shit sucks man.

 

Why get another oem ecu? Seems like a perfectly good excuse to start the snowball and go standalone and single "while you're in there".

Well we towed it out there so we were going to tow it back regardless. Still sucks to drag a car all the way out there for it to run for 20 minutes though.

 

I was fully planning on going stand alone actually, contacted Drift Motion, Suspicous, and UMS about setups. Had a budget of $3k and then decided to buy a boat for the family.

 

Bust Out Another Thousand

 

[Demesio 0]

When you save up enough again, hit me up. I know some people that can get you a solid AEM setup... or you can go with that link ecu since you dont have a "super laggy stupid" DBW lol

[Lofty 0]

I have the same lower unit (Alpha One)

What inboard is that? Mine is a Mercruiser 3.0 (which is an Iron Duke)

LMK if you have boat questions, for mine the previous owner was super meticulous and I have factory service manuals up the ying yang.

[brian 0]

Demesio, i should have driven your car.

 

Lofty, I will probably take you up on that. New to boats and atm in over my head. It has the MerCruiser GM 4.3 V6 with EFI.

[Demesio 0]

let me know next time you're in the area... we can look for the next weakest link to fix

[brian 0]

let me know next time you're in the area... we can look for the next weakest link to fix

with mine or yours?

[Demesio 0]

 

you can afford anything you break on my car

[RickyFromThePark 0]

Is your boat named "Like'n it wet"?

[brian 0]

yeah, by the previous owner.

[ChriSOL 0]

new name suggestion:

 

lichen et ouette

[brian 0]

finally got it running. huge thanks to jordan gartner for sending me a jzx81 -> jzx90 jumper harness so i didn't have to make one.

 

car fired up and ran good, i didn't swap the ignitor yet and for the less than 5 minutes the car ran i reopened the jzx90 ecu and i shit you not, the 33uf 35v cap started to leak (which was perfectly fine when i first got the ecu). fresh goo. so i'm convinced these early ignitors are junk.

 

sending it out to DM tomorrow for fresh caps, so still can't drive the car for a few weeks.

 

[Gordo 0]

Be careful with Drift Motion....

Just went through one of their 'New moly coated' 7M oil pumps that a guy in Australia sent to me for the bearing conversion.

Only half of it was new, and the coating was not Moly, but looked more like KG Gun-Kote.

 

The chances of you getting quality caps is thin & none, probably the cheapest Chinese caps they can buy.

[brian 0]

swapped all the caps finally in the jzx90 ecu. car runs so smooth now, it's crazy. idle is rock solid, no more classic 1jz-tt skip on cold start. when removing the caps, literally every single one of them was starting to ooze.

 

caps i ordered

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1U8QEBCypur1SDiBruo9pkXtY4f-c4oyAZ9uCuKKxZLw/edit?usp=sharing

[Gordo 0]

Kind of info that is beneficial here

[ChriSOL 0]

you said x90 caps are same as x81?

[brian 0]

yeah exactly the same. ecus are 95% identical in structure, layout and components, toyota just removed IC803 which controls the turbo light and maybe a few other things and did a revised ID number on the main cpus.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

Oh shit, this is nerdy. I like it.

[Lofty 0]

This is good. Im guessing a JZS147 ecu will be prone to this shit as well right.

[Demesio 0]

that's just 1jz shit right there... 2js are just better..

[LUMBERZACK 0]

^ Facts.

[brian 0]

did a few things.  installed xm subframe and diff bushings (2.5 GT has unique stiffer oem rear subframe bushings), installed my frs/brz diff with 4.10 gears, some battle version rear camber arms because the stocks were thin and rusted, a defi racer boost gauge (fuck that controller) using Nac's OG clock adapter kit (which works well because you can flip the rear plate to fit RHD cars), oem mark ii shag floor matts, and a cusco strut brace (gave up ever finding a oem).  also marc is working on my oval downpipe to sit above the frame rail.

[brian 0]

cut up a cressida clock to use the factory plug to power the gauge.  worked perfect because that plug has every thing you need.

[tuner4life 0]

TLDR: More details on the FRS/BRZ diff? Not at all familiar with them. 

 

[brian 0]

all i did was swap the frs/drz internals (torsen diff and gears) into the x8 housing.  but, i did notice the rear cover plate from the x8 does bolt on to the frs/brz case (with no dowel pins) and the mounting tabs are higher so i assume you can install a frs/brz diff in the same manner most people do a mkiii diff case, you would just need shorter spacers in the front.

[Gordo 0]

Jason T, the FRS Torsen is the same one that came in the Tourer-V in Japan.
It is the newer T2 design, with parallel gears.
No special shafts required, like the old Torsen T1 did.

Brian, you picked the weak ass Cusco bar, with the joint in the middle.
If you lean on it in the corners enough, you will split those silly aluminum lock nuts on the adjustable part.
Sell it, and I will show you the one piece one in Japan, if they are still there.