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brian

Bought a Mark II JZX81

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simple and clean

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jzxdadlife

 

maybe if i make my car look as clean as yours people wont look at me and assume im some white trash negligent methhead father driving it because its all i can afford...

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jzxdadlife

 

maybe if i make my car look as clean as yours people wont look at me and assume im some white trash negligent methhead father driving it because its all i can afford...

 

that's what my 4runner is for lol.

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Looks killer except....

Mud flaps belong on subaru's not X chassis :P

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I will not put mudflaps on my Subaru. That mod and the bros that rock them are trash.

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finally got rid of that cheap godsnow/ebay wheel.

 

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also removed the 20 year old rear tint

 

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How was the tint removal experience? I want to have my tint done over, but my current tint looks horrendous to remove.

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the tint guy sprayed some shit on plastic film and stuck it to the tint and left the car in the sun for 30 min, the old tint came right off in 10 seconds. not sure what he sprayed on there though.

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My tint guy has the same procedure, but he warned me that the technique doesnt always work. Sometimes the tint is so old and if it is cheap tint the adhesive will still be on the window after tint removal. Lol

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damn yeah that's a risk. i think my tint, while 25 years old, spent 24.9 years not in the arizona sun lol.

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A guy who gets a lot of ass once told me that only ugly people tint their windows... or they're always trying to pick their boogers out, I can't remember which

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So I decided that instead of fixing the ABS/TRC, I should remove it because they're 30 year old intrusive first generation systems anyway. Thanks to Chris for sending me a non-abs prop valve.

 

The ABS/TRC actuators weighed in at 38 lbs and was pretty rusty at this point since it just sits in front of the passenger tire like in a Cressida.

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Changed out all the old rusty and over machined thin rotors as well.

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I cut, reshaped and reflared the factory ABS lines to work with the non-ABS proportioning valve. This was harder than I thought, had to learn to make a proper flare before they would seal correctly. Also you can tell how much of a brake fluid mess it all was, it ate through the protective coating on the OEM lines. Also the master looks like it has been leaking for a few decades.

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For anyone interested, this is the line routing for the oem prop valve (US Cressida).

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Overall cleaned up the bay a little, still rocking my OEM fuel resistor pack.

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So ToyotaFest was 50% successful. For those who don't follow my filth on social media, basically the car was running flawlessly the morning of the show. Met the California Cressida guys before all rolling into the show around 8 AM. By then there was a pretty long line of cars being admitted, so idled for about 15 minute slowly and was literally 2 or 3 cars behind finally getting to my spot and the 1JZ stalled. Tried to restart it, nothing. Would run for 1 second and stall. We pushed it out of the way next to the vendor tents and tried to get it started. Mo grabbed some parts cleaner and we were able to get it to barely run on it (roughly) and assumed that maybe my float was stuck (1/4 tank) and i was out of gas. Called the wife to get me some gas and the show organizers brought me some as well. Still nothing, and the gas gauge has come up a few notches so that's working. Next we assume it was the fuel pump or filter and proceed to push the car into a spot at the show and was told to not work on it until 330pm when the show was over.

 

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I do a APB on Facebook and a friend with a local show (Suspicious Garage) offered a spot and tools to diagnose and replace the pump. At the end of the show we call AAA and get the car over to the shop. There we find out the ecu is only firing the injectors once and decide to pull codes. Code 14 (no IGF1 signal). We swap ignitors and the same thing. Then it dawned on us, this is a JZX81, check the damn capacitors in the ECU. Pull the ECU and sure as shit, the 33uf 35v cap is burned up, so bad that one of the legs is no longer connected inside of it.

 

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There isn't a JZX81 to be found on a Saturday night. Keep the car at the shop the next few days and towed it home on Monday. Got at least one day with my family in LBC but overall the trip was kinda spoiled from the event. I wanted to take my wife around socal in the car, she hasn't had much seat time in it, we literally brought her mom along to watch the kids just for this to happen.

 

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He still had a good time.

 

Anyway, I decide to say fuck finding a JZX81 ecu (they are just so hard to find around here) and find a JZX90 ecu and ignitor for $40 locally. I grab the ecu and open it up and it's perfect inside and also discover it's 99.99% identical to the JZX81 ecu, down to each pn and manufacturer of each component (including the caps!). This JZX90 ecu has a Jan 94 build date and the JZX81 ecu that was in the car had a 1993 build date. This tells me it's probably from a JZA70 and was replaced in the past (so this has probably happened a few times in this car).

 

I also noticed the JZX90 ignitor is about 20% smaller than the JZX81 ignitor. So I got to thinking and looked up pictures of other failed JZX81 ecus and 9 times out of 10 it's always the same 33uf 35v capacitor that has failed or is leaking badly. It's also nearest to the IG pin in the ECU. So my unproven theory here is maybe the older JZX81 ignitor is somehow causing these ECUs to fail, possibly the voltage or amperage is out of spec and shortening the cap life considerably. Possibly when Toyota made the ignitor smaller after just 2 years of production, revised the IG signal stabilizing it and extended the cap life in the JZX90 ecus. Again just a theory, so I am going to run this jzx90 ignitor with this ECU just to be safe.

 

I grabbed some plugs out of a 96 Avalon and going to build a jumper harness with the socket from the fried JZX81 ecu. Hopefully this buys me some time until I get a stand alone in the car and not worry about this shit anymore.

 

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The jza70/jzx81 ecus are so weak. They blow caps when you sneeze on them. I think I went through 3 before I finally ended up swapping to jzx90. It ran for another 4 years without a skipping a beat.

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Gotta love those shitty old electrolytic caps. Tow home from LA must have been spendy too, that shit sucks man.

 

Why get another oem ecu? Seems like a perfectly good excuse to start the snowball and go standalone and single "while you're in there".

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I really don't give a flying fuck about anything 1JZ, but I like your train of thought on the possible cause/solution.

Seems a step above the normal thought process of the typical X-chassis owner.

 

Are there test parameters for the ignitors, that you could compare?

 

Another fix would be going to a higher voltage cap, as that is what typically blows capacitors.

Was the board damaged beyond repair?

 

Or a plug-in socket on the outside of the ECU, and carry a dozen caps with you at all times, just like 7M guys carrying a half dozen head gaskets in the trunk.

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