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Jacob

sorry to ask but no tiempo

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So I've had this on going issue with my 5vzfe. I have to take it into the ZONE to see, if codes actually come up this time around. Other than that I've got very little time until Christmas "break". Don't want to waste my break chasing bullshit and don't want to run my shit into the ground out to neglect. I love dailying this thing. It's my street fighting thing hauler... bob 'n' weave, run over shit, pick up free shit.

 

The longs: It's a 1996 T100 2wd auto to manual conversion. Auto ecu with transmission sensor in park. 340k miles. A couple month's after the swap, it started struggling with idle. And No break up in acceleration, may be a once a week stumble. I chased a code or 2. Cleaned the MAF with a qu-tip. REMOVED CAT (it was dying). Stumbling and lack of idle went away. A few weeks later, I started getting a break up during throttle. Sometimes off the line. Sometimes around 3.5-4.5krpms. It's getting worse.

 

I'm hoping one of you guys has just dealt with this problem a thousand times and can just nail it. If not, I need a good plan of action/process of elimination. All I can rough guess is TPS, MAF, coils, or timing. I will run codes again today or tomorrow. See what i can see. a

 

 

Besides being down right irritating and progressively killing shit, it's completely shelved any momentum to turbo it. Not going put in as freshly rebuilt turbo just to blow fins up.

 

Thanks for the hand holding in advance.

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Take the plastic top part off of the maf, check if one of those pins is shorting on the other one.

Cressida maf may work, I know it works on 3vz as well as 22re. Worth a try if you have one laying around. You can also try unplugging it and seeing what happens for testing.
Also sometimes the ECUs on toyota trucks get wet and corroded. Might wanna crack it open and take a look.

 

Other than that, spark related or fuel related.

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^door flapper maf will work??

 

aside from all the transmission codes, it threw a code for temps not being good for closed loop. so ill chase down the wrie or sensor, then double back to the maf

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I second Demesio's suggestion. The fact that you got a temp code too points to this. My guess is that the sensor might be fine, but maybe you have corrosion, debris/oil on a wire or contact somewhere, or something similar.

 

If it's an old ass sensor, it's probably a good idea to replace it anyway.

 

Any problem with your ETC would make everything screwy, including idle, cold start, or once it's warmed up.

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MO will 3rd it. And I will 4th it because now I know have reasonable suspicion as to what caused my 80amp fuseable link to blow out and for the curcuit to complete itself through the chassis and arch off all weird while I was fucking with it.

 

Not sure how related because it just happened a little bit even before that.

 

I've got a fluke multimeter. I will get to it later today.

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Okay so according to this vid... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPAIFL8VH9w .....sensor should read about 2 ohms cold and goes up to 5 ohms hot. Mine reads 4.26 so I guess mine is fucked.

 

But the wiring.

 

The multimeter in the video does beepy noises for good news. Not sure how to translate that to actual readings

 

sensor plug turned toward me with clip at north.

 

key in on position but not cranked

 

volts

left pin ... 0

rigtht pin .... 5.0

 

ohms

left ... 31.8

right .... OL (open loop)

 

key out

 

volts

L ... 0

R ... 0.2

 

ohms

L .... 0.3

R .... 2.8

 

ECT sensor

 

ohms .... 4.3

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Fucking got worse before, I could get to the temp sensor. Stumbled to the point of shaking like a bitch. replaced the temp sensor and now I have a permanment miss throughout the rpm range. So 1 step forward 2 steps back. I'm going to have a go at it again tomorrow. See what else the scanner shows. double check coil packs. If nothing simple helps out, I found a good shop that only does automotive electrical. I'll dump it off to them for a bit. I don't have time with everything that's happening lately. I miss my truck, and I need it good because I may have found an idiot to buy up my buick.

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What are the codes?

 

That reference circuit is shared by a couple of sensors, but I think the temp sensor grounds in the block. The ecu shouldn't care about temp when the vehicle is in closed loop, if it's ever getting there. It looks like you are getting the correct voltage to the senor. I am curious why the one connector says 2.8 ohms. That might be going back to another wire this is a source of your issues. I need to check a diagram.

 

I would unplug the cold start injector, and see if it makes a difference.

 

I can look at the RM for you if you want. just PM me your number so I can text it to you.

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OK, upon review, that's a code for the o2 sensor, and I am completely talking out of my ass. sending you over the RM stuff.

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Can we just make this a thread where we ask dumb fucking questions? Cause I could use that.

 

I have a lot of weird shit going on with motors that I have no answer to.

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^sounds good. Get some top bitch to sticky it or may be just let it float. Every new problem could be signified with something JZXP'esque. Like if you post a new stupid question, have a cool pic.


Also, it's not a grounding issue. I checked the O2 sensor with a fluke meter and foompla via text. Changed the temp sensor any way.

I've had a legit older pro guy dick around with the electrical said nothing there, but suspects an air issue because the miss disappears at idle.... So back to my MAF. Piece of shit was fucking up before, and cleaning it helped or a pin is fucked.

I at least made a good local connection . Legit car people in the south are difficult to come by.

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Everyone was wrong in their much appreciated attempts to help because I'm having cognitive difficulties lately and can't trouble shoot shit on my own. Sorry for squandering some peoples good intentions.

 

I dicked around with the plug wires and coils. Found one of the insulator stems had a defect and the spark was arching through the side. I've tried finding a free video host but too sketchy to try shit on my window 10 bullshit. Put a $4 junkyard but OEM plug wire on it. Done.

 

Still need a decent MAF to replace the haggard-functional one. I'd like OEM over new brandX aftermarket shit. If someone knows how to tell the difference between a OEM replacement a pile of shit aftermarket, do let me know.

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Had some time and patience to take a step back from fucking with it and just think everything through. Somewhere between the last X7 and this T100, i forgot that old toyotas like 93 octane. Especially, if they've been manual swap and still run the auto ecu. And have had a cat go bad once under 87 octane. And running OBD2 without a cat... on cheap autozone plug wires. Etc. etc.

 

Truck is night and day. Fucking stout lil motor now. Weird that it made such a huge difference, but I'll take it. It still sputters ever so often at low rpm and pings again ever so often. It's probably just basic tune up shit from here on out though (plugs, wires, fuel fliter, etc.).

 

This will be the last bitch ass post from outa me. Thanks for trying to help out. I was bit of a mess within a conundrum inside a conundrum.

 

Good times now.

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Im not going to read any of this but did u do a timing belt and is the timing correct? I do not believe it was just the octane that was fucking you. A tune up and checking timing, correct especially on a obd2 vehicle is a no brainer. That popping you're talking about sounds like wrong timing and or ignition related.

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I appreciate it. Doesn't quite explain away everything, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to also do the timing belt.

Since I started using 93 I can push the gas pedal all the way down to get rid of the sputters at higher rpms. Couldn't do that before. Still gets the shuttering hicupping hesitation between 1-1.5rpms. Sometimes but not always. And again I put the gas down and it'll clear up a bit.

Found a decent article to help borrow some seasoning for myself.

https://itstillruns.com/car-hesitate-accelerating-5161686.html

 

Let's just leave this post to collect some dust while figure it out and just post how I went about fixing shit. It's too much to fix via bbs.

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Pulled my head out of my ass.

 

Spark plugs. Done

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It came back pretty soon. And its all the time again. Looking for vehicle so i can FIX it for good.

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Let's get this figured out man, it shouldn't be too terrible. I am not very familar with 5vz but Ive had most of the other shitty yota motors in the trucks.


What do the plugs look like now? Can you pull one? IS there oil leaking through into the plug galley?

The fact that it went away temporarily and came back with plugs tells me something may be happening with them? What did they look like when you pulled them? The fact that it does it at high rpms tells me fuel / ignition more than anything. Injectors suck? Honestly try the cleaner stuff? It might help. Bad EGR?

Are you able to pull the injectors and try to clean them or perhaps replace them?

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Honestly, all those things are on the to do list. One bitty thing at a time. In order of functionality over sensibilities. I just swapped out wheels and tires again. Then i will swap more brake pads (like a cressida this got pedestrian single pistons up front).

 

I still havent bothered with drilling bolting down the shifter boot. The life load thing just needs to chill for a bit.

 

Besides this problem hasnt killed anything in the year of dealing with it.

 

Also, I think that ive just aged out of summer weather prematurely. Tired of ball sweat, mosquitos, and sun beating the shit out of me.

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I feel you dog. My LX has been misfiring for most of my ownership. I replace 6/8 coils with new bosch coils, being like 50$ a piece. Replaced based on order of how shitty each one looked. Nope, still misfires sometimes, lol. Missed a coil. -_-

I feel like I wasted my entire fucking summer wrenching on my x8 when I could have been boating or some shit.
Just take a break. I'm not sure where you live but falls' already here.

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