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LUMBERZACK

Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

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Yup, that's about as good as it gets from Mexican 'glass.

 

DSC07294.jpg

 

I bailed on my shit 'glass bumper also....

 

Sheesh Gordo, that bumper is pretty rough.

 

Jose is a good guy, he just needs practice or better tools, which he admits. If he gets better, I'll buy from him in the future, but until then, I'm too much of a perfectionist.

 

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What the story was originally was that he doesn't make the shit, he knows a guy down there that does.

And that he was just making cheap 'glass for busting up while drifting.

 

But crap, I would have thought that him or the shop he was having this stuff made at would figure out how to make a strait edge by now....

 

Still think paper mache would be the way to go for this 'drifting' bull shit on crap cars.

That way all the kiddies could just use their Elmer's glue to put everything back together.

 

Hey, want a bash bar!

How much ?

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Lmao for real. Yeah, it's definitely a drift spec kit finish.

 

I paid $500 for front and rear bash bars. The guy I had make them is a friend of mine who runs a Toyota off-road fab shop. I gave him a challenge and he excelled. I'm sure he could make a jig out of mine and replicate it to sell for members with enough interest.

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Here is what I drew on Adobe Illustrator if anyone wants to give this to their fab guy. I don't know how much help it is.

 

 

26272643359_dd5cbbf54a_b.jpg

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Damn, I'm looking for some older defi gauges myself. I really want the old link series gauges because they are 52mm and they won't overlap into the stock trim on the double DIN. Not to mention, the green matches the stock instruments almost perfectly. Looks like you got some 60mm ones, which are a little large for the Cressida.

 

Also, is there any reason why you can't just use a coolant temp SENDER (not sensor) on the stock upper threaded hole on the waterneck? Two wires could be staked into the single pin coming out of the sender.

 

 

One wire would run to your body plug to send to the stock water temp gauge, and the other would wire right into whatever aftermarket gauge you have. That way, you don't have to wire in that unsightly radiator hose adapter job.

 

 

 

This is all theory, I'm waiting on a water temp sender as we speak to try this myself. If it works, shit would be quite a bit less cluttered since you won't have to deal with too much extra wiring or sensor crap.

 

However, I am not sure how many volts the defi gauge requires and how much the OEM coolant temp sender puts out. It might put out 5V, but the defi gauge might require 12, I'm not sure.

 

Here's a janky drawing in MS paint:

 

 

X2MJ5Fx.png

 

Any idea how many pounds of boost you were pushing on that dyno run? Don't overspool those poverty ceramic wheels my friend

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What's up Casey!
I'm a big fan of the white 60mm Defi's because of all of the JZX100s that have them lined across the dash. I do like the green, but since I swapped the green cluster for red LED and plan on changing the HVAC buttons to red LED, the white Defi's make more sense.

I do have a water temp sender for a 94 Supra in the spare threaded tap on my 2J water neck, but that goes to my coolant temp gauge on the instrument cluster. So basically I have two gauges monitoring my water temp. It's a bit redundant, but it's also peace of mind if one fails.
I think your idea would work as long as they run off the same V reading. Definitely try it out and let me know. I'm most likely going to have a hard upper radiator pipe made and have a threaded NPT tap welded to the pipe for the temp sender. That would allow me to not have to use the Greddy attachment.

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Yup, there you go. Yeah, I'll let you know and report back.

 

Jealous of all the lights and trunk emblem you scooped up. I really want the trunk emblem jobber.

 

I don't know quite enough about electrical theory, but I don't see why adding a resistor to drop it down to 5v wouldn't work...

 

If my plan works, you wouldn't even have to tap the hard pipe going to the radiator. You would be sending the signal from the waterneck to BOTH places, the stock water temp gauge and your defi gauge.

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LMAO, love the drawing, which finally loaded. Also I am at stock boost pressure which was 15lbs on that dyno run. I'm conservative with the stock twins.

 

The trunk emblem is sweet. It even has a valet mode, if you turn it counter-clockwise, you cannot open the trunk from the driver door pull lever. (I'll never use this feature, but it's there)

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Here is what I drew on Adobe Illustrator if anyone wants to give this to their fab guy. I don't know how much help it is.

 

Well, with me being in San Antonio, any fab work, such as cages, or bash bars are done with about the same skill as Jose's fiberglass....

 

I would imagine, that your nose, and mine would have the same contour.

About the only variance might be the spacing between the upper & lower bars, and the spacing between the vertical bars.

 

So, my question is, what are those dimensions on yours?

 

I would certainly be interested in one, even if it wasn't welded up, so that things could be adjusted.

It's that, or I would have to try bending one myself, but my bender is more cycle/kart sized, so I would have to do it out of 1" tube.

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Boristhecat, thought of this after you drew the shifter above....

 

woman_fucking_on_a_car_hood_and_gear_sti

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Gordo, the major measurements on my bar are as follows:

Tubed steel: 1-3/4"

Top bar to bottom bar: 11-1/2" O.C.

Top of vert across to top of vert: 28-1/2" O.C.

Bottom of vert across to bottom of vert: 33-1/2" O.C.

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Damn near spot on with My BN.

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And that's baller as fuck, I want one of those trunk emblems! I only see a few on YAJ and they're all for chasers. I want the MarkII emblem like you have. And I was unaware that the door handles glowed/lit up, pics of them on once you get them wired in?

 

I didn't really care for the chrome handles before, but if they have some light up shit, I love that kind of stuff.

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Gordo, Let me know what you want me to ask my fab guy and I'll talk to him.

Casey, it is hard to find the locks on yaj. They are typically in poor condition and way too pricey. ($150+) I paid $25. If I were you, I'd try to make a connect in Australia. All of the Cressidas in Straya came with boot locks. S1 (89-90) had the Cressida/Mark II logo, S2 (91-92) had the Toyota sombrero logo.

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Hold that thought.....

I just paid a wad of cash out for my new transmission project, and still need 2 new 7.25" clutch disks, another hydraulic throw-out, and a custom driveshaft.

 

Will to see how many more kart engines I can move to get some more cash.

 

Well, hell, can't hurt to ask....

What would he want for all the pieces ?

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Speaking of hydraulic throw-outs, what brand have you had good luck with? If I don't try T56 magnum, I'm just going to throw a twin disc OS Giken on my R154, but I'm undecided if I want to buy the OSG movement alteration kit or hydraulic TOB. I've heard mixed results on hydraulic TOB.

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The ones I use are QuarterMaster or Coleman.

I think it's in my build thread.

Did one on the W58 that I will never use now, and did up another one for my old 71B Datsun trans.

Buy them off eBay for $50, throw a $20 seal kit in them.

Both required making a sleeve so they fit the snout on the import trans.

 

The one in my W58:

DSC05586.jpg

 

And the Datsun trans:

DSC08185.jpg

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Interesting, I've never heard of those manufacturers. I guess that could be a good thing if there are no bad reviews lol. I've read a few reviews from people using the DriftMotion TOB and the Camaro TOB from Xcessive that they blow the o-rings.

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1. when you installed your door handles, did the rods that actuate the latch snap into their plastic guides or did you have to modify them? my cresta handles didnt play nice w the usdm plastic clips.

 

2. can you swap lock cylinders from the us and aus trunk latches? again, cresta and cressida differences make this look too difficult to attempt without fucking something up.

 

3. ive destroyed as many mark ii sedan lights as youve hoarded there. clear vinyl cover seems like it would give you some cheap insurance from rock chips/cracks. probably not bb's though... i did get the opportunity to remove the yellow bulb covers in a way that they can be reinstalled having a couple junk ones to play with, though.

 

good work!

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1. Door handle install required no modification because the handles are from an Aussie mx83 Cressida, not a Chaser/Cresta/Mark II.

 

2. You cannot swap cylinders, but what I did was used the key pins from my USDM cylinder and repinned the Aussie boot lock so I could use my USDM key. Everything else is installed like factory. Mind you, this was also a take off from an Aussie mx83, not a Chaser/Cresta/Mark II.

 

3. I actually forgot to mention it although you reminded me, I did invest in .40mm (Supa Thicc) clear vinyl for my headlights because Arizona highways are notorious for cracking windshields/lights with the aggregate that is dropped from rock trucks early in the morning. The downfalls of living in a growing area. Thanks for the advice though!

 

Thanks for the compliments

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this is good to know. since we chased off all of the aus members (and most non-tx members), i have no way to find this shit anymore and neither does rue.

 

hes run similar aus spec corners on his corolla and x7 is something i think he's still looking for if your friend is interested. i'd take an x8 trunk latch to replace the cresta one if you know of another.

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i dont think this is something group-buyable. ive reached out directly to a lot of people in that market over the years, so have others. you either know someone that has them/will sell them or you dont. if theres a hoarder out there w that many of them, hes not letting them go.

 

i could cross ref the toyota pn's for the mark ii sedan and aus spec cressida, then look to see if the ht is the same. the guts for the latch can be re-keyed like zack did, prices on this type of shit (kyle calls them trinkets) have been going up over the past years as the demand increases w the number of owners and the supply diminishes. check yja.

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