Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

[LUMBERZACK 0]

Damn Nigel, low key tryna sit on this dick or som'n?

[WhoreMouth_Jr 0]

It's only a matter of time before these 2 faggots start posting their garbage facebook memes here =(

[battleaxe 0]

should have got that pic at 666

why dont people lower these cars? they all seem jacked. they have SO much chassis room to the ground

[LUMBERZACK 0]

I work in construction and drive this car daily. I can assure you this is the lowest car on the jobsite.

My Subaru frame is 1 1/2" off the ground, don't need two useless cars lol.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

chassis clearance will be the least of your worries when you run into axle bind because your drive axles form a V from the diff outward. Not to mention undesirable suspension geometry.

[battleaxe 0]

i own many low useless cars, but the x8 has rim edge on edge of the chassis and i have like 4inch of body/oil pan clearance, doesnt rub or bang. i think ive hit the exhaust on a couple of occasions. this thing just looks jacked, like all cressidas. my. axles are tilted but not crazy like my s13..those looks dumb. i run 18s mind you on the cressida. but 17s with like a 45 series look hilarious. my civic has less clearance and it just tucks tire.

 

this is all moot as it should be a useable car. i just never understand why these cars are usually seen with 17s and full tire mildly stretched exposed...theres SOOO much room. not saying only cool cars are low and the ground, its just, it CAN look good and still be fully functional.

 

lol, of course its the lowest car on a job site. every job site ive ever been on has lifted trucks or some sort of dual sport motorbike, lol cars

[LUMBERZACK 0]

I do agree that Cressidas aren't as notorious for axle bind as S-chassis and others like Subarus, but a related issue I've know others to run into CV boots tearing and separating on their Cressidas due to the angle of the axles from being low as well.
I think the main contributor of the Cressida's appearance is the ugly USDM bumpers. A decent kit gives it the aggressive look it needs.

I'm sure I'll work on fitment more once my body kit is on and I find a set of wheels I want to run for good, but it probably won't be 18's. imo a proper 90's car has smaller wheels and I'm looking for era correct styling.

[battleaxe 0]

i can agree to most of those points. theyre fair.

i can concur that 17s would be more correct, but i like 18s for my car, its not fully period correct. i live in 2002 car world.

usdm bumpers are trash. 100% though the rear has grown on me for being a useful bench.

ive torn a few s13 axles as its stupid low and dumb, raising it currently. but the x8 looks like its on lowering springs in the back looking at the axle angle. s13 is to the moon, a solid 45degrees+...another factor to that, is when you lower a car and take most if not all the camber out, stretches them even further and then adds another angle to it. if you run a bunch of camber, theyre still "the same length" my s13 has axle spacers and will have risers and i run -3ish camber, so its not too bad.

but anyways

[LUMBERZACK 0]

Yea I can definitely appreciate low, slow, and borderline useless on 18's (see my STi below), but I really plan to keep the Cressida as functional as possible. We'll see how I work on the fitment in the future; it's still an ongoing project car lol. Feel free to post a picture of your s13, I'm keen now.

[battleaxe 0]

in my build thread you can see my x8 and supra. supra is full dumb.

 

nothing special what so ever, 100% trash

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

you can see the toe arm angles here at least.

 

/spam your thread

 

nothing really to look at. just a neglected skid pig for the last decade..finally getting fixed and painted now , 10yrs later

[LUMBERZACK 0]

Holy shit yeah that toe arm is dancing ymca. That s13 is my favorite two-tone combo though.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

What's up cucks. I hope you all enjoy my photo dumps, because I've been brewing this one for a while. A lot of little details this time, no big changes...yet.

Not that it matters or that any of you care, but I will try my best to keep the pictures in chronological order. In many cases, I bought things and didn't install them before I would buy something else. I will try my best to keep the purchase and installed pictures grouped instead jumping around how life actually occurs.

With that said, the earliest event that occurred after my lengthy absence was, I made a large purchase off Yaj using Jesse Streeter's service. I purchased many random bits, as I like to combine shipping as much as possible since it can get spendy send one thing at a time.

Defi Gauges! Turbo, Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, and Tachometer (I'm probably not going to use).



The listing also came with all of the respective sensors and Defi Controller.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

After a few short days on a plane, I received my Yaj order.

 

Boxes in boxes



Here are the Defi's in all their glory.

Clear door markers

 

A couple sets of Mark II sedan headlights with internal fogs.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

Installed the clear door markers.

Here are the Factory USDM red door markers.



Clear markers installed.



Swapped the halogens for LED.



My LED interior.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

Time to work on the Defi Gauge install. After tossing up countless ideas of gauge placement and almost pulling the trigger on the 'super JDM' passenger dashboard placement, I decided to take out the cigarette lighter/ashtray.

Cardboard is great for this type of install.



Cardboard mock-up.

 

I made sure gauges placement was perfect and that my idea would work before I progressed the mock-up to a more suitable material. I stuffed my Defi controller in the lower DIN. This turned out to be a great idea because anyone who has Defi's can attest to the fact that when the key is in the ignition, but the car is not running, the oil pressure gauge is obviously at 0. This triggers the gauge alarm in the controller and makes it extremely annoying to sit in the car with it off. With the controller being in the DIN with a door, it quiets down the alarm significantly to a more bearable level. 10/10 Wud recommend.

 

My buddy had left over ABS from his diffuser, so I laid my mock-up to cut the right amount of ABS.

 

 

How the gauge 'pod?' turned out.

 

Installed.

 

I combined the turbo and water temp sensors and ran them through the passenger firewall. Then, I combined the oil temp and oil pressure sensors and ran them through the driver fender grommet.
I used braided sheathing and heat shrink to keep it all tidy.



I had to buy the good stuff, so I bought a Greddy water temp adapter and a Blitz oil sensor attachment sandwich plate.



As always, Japanese part quality is second to none.

 

In car with turbo gauge installed where the clock was.

 

[LUMBERZACK 0]

This TRD Sports seat from an optioned AE86 has been sitting at my local importer's warehouse since I bought my 2JZ from them a year in a half ago. Given that it was sitting for so long, I was able to scoop it up for cheap. Although I never 'loved' the seat, I knew it would be a nice passenger seat that won't break the bank, but still tie into my theme.

 

As you can see, the logo needed some help.

 

I've never sewn before, but I figured, "how hard can it be." Now it wasn't too hard, but time consuming and since I'm human, not perfect. With that said, I was happy with how it turned out.

 

I had my buddy fab up some brackets for the rails to attach to the chassis. The cool thing about this seat is the rails are integrated. With these custom brackets, the seat sits very low.

 

Installed. How many JDMs do I get for mismatched seats?

 

[LUMBERZACK 0]

After drawing my design in Adobe Illustrator, I took my idea to my fabrication friend. I wanted bash bars made specifically for my new kit. I dropped off the bumpers and my sketches and this is what he produced.

 

 

Rear center jack point.

 

 

Capped the ends, nothing half-assed.

 

 

The bash bar wedges right into the bumper perfectly. It actually 'Snaps' into place.

 

With all of this work done, my fabricator pointed out to me that there was a severe sag on my front bumper where it is supposed to line up with the front lights/grille fascia. No matter what he and I tried, this was the best it looked mounted. A 2" gap between the fascia and bumper.

 

 

After I lost hope with this kit, I decided to take the plunge and seek an authentic BIG☆WIN kit.

After hours of searching, many google translated emails in Japanese and $900 in shipping alone, SUCCESS.

 

 

I am still in shock with the quality of this kit. It far exceeded my expectations and I'm extremely happy I made the switch to an authentic kit. The finish is similar to the fiberglass you would see on a boat. Super glossy and so smooth.

 

 

JZX100 turn signals popped right in. BIG☆WIN prepped the front bumper for turn signal mounting prior to shipping so I don't have to do any work with it.

 

Tag of authenticity

 

Bash bar fits the BIG☆WIN, no finessing.

 

Front bumper fits so well! No more gap under the fascia. I still need to do a couple adjustments to the bash bar, but it's going to be real nice!

[LUMBERZACK 0]

A friend from down under in 'Straya told me that he had a bunch of goodies he would sell me, so I agreed and this is what he had. Chrome handles, boot lock w/ key, and series 2 corner lights with full chrome trim to match my Mark II sedan headlights.

 

It took 3 long months to have this care package shipped via sea mail, but they finally reached my dining room table.

Given Aussie cars are RHD and US cars are LHD, I took the key hole illumination lock from my US driver handle and fitted it to the passenger Aussie handle so now my passenger and driver side locks light up green. Details...

 

 

Apparently Aussie corners have a different style socket and harness although the bulb is identical. Luckily I had a female connector to match the male connector on the body harness. Cut the Aussie spade pins off and crimped on new open barrel terminals with weather gaskets.

 

Now the new corners can plug in like factory on my US body harness.



Note how the chrome trim continues from the top of the headlight around the corners to the bottom of the headlight. This is much more appealing than what we got in the states imo. It's similar to a Nissan Laurel fascia.

 

[LUMBERZACK 0]

I bought a replica DM Aero roof wing from Rickyy. Quality and fitment is very good and his latest mounting brackets are very nice quality. The roof wing hugs the curve of the roof line well.

 

[LUMBERZACK 0]

I finally replaced my blown speakers for some newer model Pioneer speakers front and rear. I'm not an audiohead, so as long as they sound crisp and the bass isn't distorted, it's a solid buy for me. New on left, blown on right.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

My fuel door was always slightly cock-eyed so I tried adjusting it straight. Without much force, it broke off. I had my friend tac weld it back together since that is all that held it together in the first place. Doing so, he miraculously made it fit straight. Mind you he did not have the car to align the door with, he just had the fuel door and his random welds fixed the door alignment.

 

I ordered a new lid before my friend fixed mine just because it was available and I was told they only have two more at the Toyota national warehouse. Cressida parts are fairly scarce these days, so I jump on any parts I can get new. The part number is in the picture for any of you looking for a fuel lid. (I know a lot of you are)

 

[LUMBERZACK 0]

I got a baseline dyno test done on my Cressida. I was always curious what numbers I was making, seeming that I pulled on an R35 GTR from a highway roll and beat some other fairly impressive cars during impromptu races, so I went and found out. I went in thinking I would make about 300whp and 320wtq. The reason I anticipated these numbers is because I have an oem R154 clutch that is rated for '350hp' on DM's website and the clutch will occasionally slip in 4th and 5th gear. I really didn't know what to expect, but I would've been happy to see those numbers.

 

 

After the first pull I was only making 2/3 the horsepower I expected. I discovered one of my vacuum lines blew off, so I put a new hose on and did another pull. This pull was the one that we printed the chart off of.

I'm in AZ, so ~1,000ft elevation, and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a bone stock JZS161 2JZ-GTE, running the stock boost pressure, 3" turboback to HKS muffler, K&N intake, DM intercooler, and stock Aristo fuel pump. I made 383whp and 420ft/lbs of torque.

[battleaxe 0]

Well.. Fuck

Jelly in those headlights man. Those were the ones I was after and got a different gx81 variant love those headlights so much.

I like what you did with the gauges install. Those gauges always have so much extra wire and it's probably the worst thing I've dealt with

[LUMBERZACK 0]

That's all of the updates I have for now. I anticipate painting the car once the kit is mounted the way I want it. I have a lot of plans for the car, so this is not the end.

 

Thanks for the compliments Battleaxe, the headlights were extremely hard to find and I consider myself to be very lucky to have found a set with the grille. I hear you on the length of wire, but definitely better safe than sorry. I like to roll up the extra wire nicely and zip-tie it, but still not as clean as "just enough" wire. lol.

[Gordo 0]

With all of this work done, my fabricator pointed out to me that there was a severe sag on my front bumper where it is supposed to line up with the front lights/grille fascia. No matter what he and I tried, this was the best it looked mounted. A 2" gap between the fascia and bumper.

 

 

After I lost hope with this kit...........

 

Yup, that's about as good as it gets from Mexican 'glass.

 

 

I bailed on my shit 'glass bumper also....