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LUMBERZACK

Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

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I have Brian's old custom 25mm rear bar that I am contemplating throwing on, but I'd want to get a 26-27mm front bar first. Thick rear with thin front is so off balance.

 

Jordan, try westlakes. They are the cheapest tire on Amazon, but they last foreverrr. They don't chunk unless you're heavy on the hand brake. I guess the only downside is they "dOn'T GEt Sm0AkiE". But if you're looking for best bang for your buck and more seat time, they're awesome. 

I drive to keep my mind off work and to enjoy what's left of my depreciating 20's, not to make smoke for instagram clout.

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The rest of my fuel setup came in the mail. I'll be contacting my tuner to schedule an appointment for tuning. Probably install and tune in a couple weeks when my schedule allows.

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I've been an achillies boy since day one lol. 47-53 dollars a tire, grip, smoaki, rarely chunki.  I was just commenting to gordon that the tires he ran 20 years ago really aren't for fagboy drifting. But who are we joking his cressids ain't ever gonna move on its own power again.  

 

My favorite tire meme is the zestino pyramid scheme.  Everyone claims they grip 1 or 2 sizzes higher bit it's just a marketing ploy. To make it all worse the head of zestino America seemed to fake his own kidnapping or something.

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Tires and if they chunk or not is a really hard thing to gauge due to weight of car, psi, track condition... bumpy and shitty or fresh paved, how long u hot lap for, pre burn out and sit, go from cold... So many variables.

 

Love how zestino fell off the map with lumppumps disappearance. Over night everyone who was using them stopped...probably same owners who have the valinos (SP?) Lol. Achilles are good, floppy at start and as they wear they get better and more predictable. I ran some atr sport tread with a c hair left on the Supra and they lasted 5 laps. Most tires I run are junk yard tyres and last me 3-5 laps if I'm lucky and nearly all my tires chunk and tread rips off. I dont run to wires as when they blow up they do a lot of unnessesary damage. 

 

People don't run good tires because as you increase grip you need more power and they cost a ton to keep driving. The balance will always be the same for grip to power. As you increase both together they make you go faster and everything costs more. More tires, tires cost more, keeping that now powerful motor happy requires more money and u have a set amount of time. 

 

The cost of low power, good grip and smiles per Event will always lie in the sub 300hp with 17s and low to mid tier tires.

I prefer to drive a lot and not spend all my money for a fun activity. Our low comp system allows for this as being the best gets you nowhere. Fuck fd and their programs. Honestly stupidest thing for new drivers to try and do due to how they judge and the level the car has to be at to compete let alone personal skills 

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It's been a while since my last update, but I finally got everything installed, running, and tuned on the new Link ECU.

Here is the Panic Wire 2JZ -> Link ECU jumper harness. Also MAF sensor connector to IAT sub-harness.

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Deatschwerks 300 Fuel pump installed on stock hanger. I believe this pump flows 340LPH and is very comparable in size to the Aristo Denso pump I was using. 

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Deatschwerks Bosch 1050cc EV14 Injectors installed with Radium fuel rail and injector boss kit. Great fitment.

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pinning for new injector connectors

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Injectors installed and connectors pinned.

 

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I love this thing.

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Admin Reveal

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It doesn't look much different.

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It's definitely not a show car and I still want to clean up some stuff around the bay. I was on a time crunch to get this operating so I could make my appointment with the tuner. Luckily I made it and I'll focus on tidying up the engine bay later. I just want to drive it.

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First start up. Not tuned. Tach wasn't working. Just needed to be repinned.
 

Untitled

To the tuner!

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Running not even 14 PSI (Wastegate spring pressure)

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~400whp/ftlbs on 14psi, 91 octane w/ 52% IDC's. I could run 18psi and make over 500, but there really is no point at my driving level. 400 rips and is super safe/conservative/reliable. I love the responsiveness of this turbo. It's exactly what I wanted. It's very comparable to the stock twins what is exactly what I wanted. I'm super excited to have a solid power plant to progress my driving with. I'm very happy with the outcome of this. I also love knowing that this setup has more on the table for when or if I decide to get more power.

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Damn I thought this thing was making 550 for sure =(

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nice, but...

That air intake temp sensor is an eye sore, and you could rotate the top of that fuelab regualtor so the vacuum hose doesnt have to loop around.

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I was going to rotate the FPR top, but figured it was orientation specific since the instructions specified which side faces forward. 

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i put my ait in the same spot your fine

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1 hour ago, Gibbs said:

i put my ait in the same spot your fine

I didnt say it was wrong, just saying its ugly

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5 hours ago, LUMBERZACK said:

 figured it was orientation specific

It's not.....

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Not much to update honestly. Just been driving the car.

I did drive my car to California and stopped at Mooneyes.

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My friend from Japan told me that many x81 drifters like to use Toyota Crown Comfort Taxi steering knuckles as they share the same suspension as an x8, but are engineered to have tighter turning in narrow Japanese streets. He shipped me a pair, I'm excited to try something factory instead of a backyard cut n shut or $225 knuckles from Xcessive.

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Taxi Left, Cressida Right. They aren't zero ackerman knuckles, so nothing too aggressive, but should still be good for a little more angle while maintaining drivability.

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Also got in contact with this guy in Kuwait selling Cressida parts and scored this dash pocket to replace the useless satellite radio control panel.

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Scored this spare MK3 LSD for $40. Pretty uncommon to find under $250 these days, so I had to scoop.

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Developed intermittent starter issues. In fear of being stranded, I got this genuine remanufactured starter. Hopefully this is more reliable than that Duralast crap. I'm just happy that it's not like other remanufactured parts that are covered in 6 layers of silver paint in attempt to bury the fact that it's still a piece of shit.

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Wheel bearing and Ball joint replacement time.

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Thanks to Urrik  and JZXGibbs for doing the leg work, I installed the Tacoma Front UCA ball joints on my RUCAs with slight modification to the arm.

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Wheel bearing out.

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New Bearing in.

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I hated the rusty colored rotor hats, so I painted them Project Mu blue for max JDM cred. Also the zerk fittings on the ball joints are really convenient.
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cars gonna feel new in the back you will love it

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Good rear geometry (and no slop) makes such a difference! Good work!

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Do you know what the Crown Comfort Taxi chassis designation is ?

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Thanks guys! It feels very nice, but I’m still experiencing this throttle input dependent vibration at highway speeds. At 70mph if I slightly let off the throttle between acceleration and complete coast, I get a noise/vibration that sounds like there is some play in the driveline. I changed the diff out thinking the lash was loose, but nothing changed. I did the bearings and ball joints and although it’s smoother, it still makes the noise. The driveshaft U-joints are good and I just installed the Xcessive trans mount in effort to eliminate the noise.

i may take the driveshaft to get rebalanced, but I’m kind of reaching at this point. Everything is tight from a bolt and part perspective.

also sort of unrelated, but the car has always vibrated quite a bit over 100mph and lots of vibration at 120mph. I can’t imagine what it would do if I took it to 140+ lol. 

Maybe it’s a 30 year old car thing? But that seems off since literally everything has been replaced and it still does it.

 

@Gordo  I believe the chassis is YXS10. The knuckles are still sold new from Toyota in Japan. This website seems like a cool place to get OEM parts from Japan. I haven't used it yet.
https://jp-carparts.com/

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I get the vibrations too

my car broke two w58 from all the vibrations....

I think it's related to drivetrain angle and differential lash. I managed to make my shit make it to 90 and not be too bothersome, but i usually coast around 60-70 so I've learned to live with it. Solid Diff and Subframe bushings don't help at all...

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My vibration is insane, doesn't start till about 95+ though.  But at 130 it's hard enough to move my rearview mirror, and enough to never push it past that

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Thanks guys. I'm relieved to hear the vibration is more common than I thought. Still a bummer that it may be just an inherent characteristic of the car. Especially since Xcessive said their Cressidas don't report similar vibrations. Hmmm.


If anyone is interested in the knuckles, I found the PN (45611-43010 & 45612-43010) on this site. Looks like $45 ea.:
https://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=333110&cartype=15&fig=4505

Also appears you might be able to buy from RHD Japan:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/oem-public-page?brand=Toyota&partnumber=45612-43010

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lol how fast can their cars go around parc? 

I think Odom was one of the few guys who drove their cars 100+ miles a day, i do about 80 a day... when i get around to driving the car.

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Throttle dependent vibration is typically the rear end not being set up correctly,
or a gear set that was never set up properly to begin with, and developed a bad wear pattern.
If it wasn't for the Mexican muffle shop exhaust on my truck, that rubs the cab, it is vibration free over 100, even with a 2-piece drive shaft.
(won't due much more than that with a nearly stock L18, but it will do it all day long)

Things that contribute to a non-throttle vibrations are bent wheels, cheap ass tires that are not round, center drive shaft bearing (if running a stock 2 piece still), worn half shafts, and as you mentioned, drive shaft, including worn u-joints.

Your not running an XM drive shaft, are you ?
 

 

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