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LUMBERZACK

Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

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Yeah, when people from Washington can't comprehend why people like me in Arizona aren't drifting every weekend and getting so much seat time, this is why. This is the only track that isn't 2.5 hours away and the facility only opens the track 1 day a month maybe. Lines are long, course is short. It's all we got. There's a really cool go cart track that allows drifting, but it's a pretty good drive away which is a reason for not going often. I'll do the most I can.

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back in the dark days (~2001) all us az folk used to drift a abandoned air field out on the east side.  it had such coarse asphalt it was nicknamed tire hell.  anyway, most of the original drifter scene was started there. 

Phoenix International was a fun track to drift back in the day too, I took my first Cressida there.  100+ mph entries (I didn't have the balls for that shit).

There were drift events almost every weekend about 15 years ago it seemed, it's quieted down a lot lately. 

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Yeah that is one good thing about Wild Horse Pass is the track conditions are really easy on tires. I didn't even kill a pair of tires drifting all day. I just still can't comprehend why most local tracks, close their doors more days of the year than they are open. If there aren't cars on the track, your facility isn't making money. Wild Horse Pass has so many tracks and they only use a portion of a full track for drifting. I don't understand.

It's not hard to believe why Bondurant filed for bankruptcy. 

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Everything changed when the track was bought by the reservation.  Back when it was Firebird International and owned by a private company they had the track opened a lot more.  I guess the reservation thought the land was now too valuable to review the lease, so Firebird sold the facility to the reservation and it was renamed to Wild Horse Pass.  They promised to keep it open for a while, but you know they will eventually tare it all down and build a casino closer to the freeway.  After that, we won't have any tracks left in AZ other than AMP which has crazy noise restrictions still. 

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Musselman Honda Circuit is a sweet track for drifting and they have open drift days regularly, but it's in Tucson. 😕 

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I'm lost at people from Washington? Haha the track up here is 45-1hour for people in Seattle area. Parc and Spirit peaks are both about 3 hours. Parc and evergreen run about an event a month Spirit peaks runs events every other weekend. You see everyone posting drifting "every weekend" because that's what they want to do, they are willing to drive out of their way to get seat time.     

It's the exact same thing at our "local" track I'd you want to run the fun layouts unless you have a cage you are waiting 15-30 minutes between 30-45 second laps.  Personally I get burnt out any more than 1 a month. You can always look into booking private rentals the rates are usually pretty decent if you can round up 5+ other budds. 

I can't really talk though I always said when I lived in Flagstaff I was gonna drive horse thief mile but never nutted up and actually did it. 

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Our program does 1-2 a month depending and we run 11 months a year. We share with 6-7 other organisations though and all locals think we are a traveling Circus. No joke. For those outside Victoria it's a solid 1-3h hrs away, if you live on the island...if you live on the mainland there's a 2hr ferry ride and almost $200 one way if u trailer, it's another story. I live 7min from the track now and I have a mountain in the way to dampen any noise. Used to live a half hour away but my shop was an hour away and I was between spaces all the time as I can only have one car at my house at a time, back in the day. You do what you gotta do. Used to street a bunch as well, but that's it's own problem. Depends on how the program is run and driver caps and all kinds of shit. Our program has been going for just over 10yrs here in Victoria and we have tandemed since day one and no cages unless a convertible, and they just need a roll bar. Not all those years were great, but we have a track that we can do layouts on and have definitive road, never did the cone dodging parking lot thing as we never had that. Learned by the walls and curbs. 

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Spirit Peaks and Parc are cool tracks and worth the drive. Here you drive 3 hours for a skid pad. lol. No excuses though, I'm still going to do what I can to get out and get seat time. I did not build this car to hard park.

With that said, check out this article written about my hardparked Cressida:

https://www.averagesquad.com/blog/2018/11/19/champagne-papi-2jz-cressida?fbclid=IwAR2ppbuy13CiizK6xQMRGPCavgVuxig-btdudzJJjonhhVdtZPBhrljS4pQ

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Good shit! One of my favorite Cressidas on here. And it actually gets thrashed. Great work!

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Thanks guys, I appreciate the love. Even though Boris secretly hates my vacuum lines. lol

 

Warning: Long post. TLDR; Below

Well I was driving home from work to start my long Thanksgiving weekend and I was on the last stretch of frontage road before I got home, so I did a nice strong pull from second to top of fourth, it felt nice a strong, no issues. A couple blocks later, I turned the corner onto my street and when I began accelerating, I felt a dramatic decrease in power and I saw my AFR gauge reading 9-10 AFR. I knew something wasn't right, so I tried to take the car around the block to see if it was some freak shit, but the problem persisted. Later that day, I decided to drive the car to my grandma's for her birthday, it's mostly freeway and I wanted to attempt to get a better understanding of the situation. 
Car starts great, idles perfect, cruises perfect, but as soon as the engine would see boost pressure during acceleration, the injectors would dump fuel and the engine would not make any power with all that fuel. I drove highway all the way to my grandma's and you'd never know there was a problem if you stayed out of boost (hard to with this small turbo). I started thinking logically, boost leak, bad vacuum line, maf sensor, map sensor, or TPS. One by one I knocked all of them off the list. I checked every hose and port for a leak, and a volt meter determined the sensors were good, but I just wasn't happy with that. 
I contacted my good pal JZXP Brian and asked him if I can try his MAP sensor since all JZ map sensors generate the same values. I drove to his place and he immediately plugs in his diagnostic dongles to my OBD2 port and attempts to run the codes (something a smart man would do). Me being the layman that I am, was more focused with swapping MAP sensors, so I was busy installing that. A few moments later, Brian could not get into the ECU with his program and decided he needed to update the software to allow Japanese language and connectivity to be achieved. 
I decided to take my car for a spin with his MAP. It wasn't long before I realized the problem remained. I pulled back into the garage and he plugged his computer back in and I remained very confused with the issue. We looked over the engine bay, Brian laughed at my agreeable dirty air filter and I started pulling off charge piping, MAF, and check the TPS. After some more attempts to access the ECU through his program and a couple look overs of the engine bay, Brian decided that we should pull the codes by jumping TC and E1 pins on the Diag port. I drove my car around the block to activate the codes and came back so Brian worked his magic. We counted the flashes and pulled CEL codes 42 and 55. 42 is speed signal issue, which is a duh on these swaps with a mechanical speed cable. 55 was check No.2 knock sensor wiring. wtf. Brian started searching the webs and found a thread where someone with a 1JZ described the same issues I was experiencing and exclaimed that his problem stemmed from the knock sensor wiring. 
Luckily Brian had a spare 2JZ-GE that we could pull a knock sensor from. Turns out knock sensors are in a bitch of a location to get to on a fully assembled engine. I jacked up my car and attempted to get my small ass hands with a crescent wrench to crack the sensor loose. Surprisingly I got the sensor out and Brian and I compared the two. The sensor from my engine was clearly different. Different manufacturer, heavier and larger. The sensor from Brian's GE was a Denso unit. Brian created a science experiment to test how to make a knock sensor work, which ended up making interesting findings. A piezoelectric knock sensor measures differences in pressure/strain/force by generating voltage that can be read by the ECU. The good sensor generated a maximum of .2V when we tested it. The bad sensor would easily generate 1.2V when we tapped the area around it. We suspect that the ECU doesn't like this high of volt reading.
I put Brian's good knock sensor in and went for a quick drive. Shifted to second and lit up the tires, THE CAR IS ALIVE! I got back to Brian's and informed him of the good news. It was a successful evening. 

TLDR;

A bad knock sensor will allow your JZ to be driven lightly out of boost, but put your ECU in limp mode in boost and run extremely rich. A 2JZ-GE knock sensor is different than a 2JZ-GTE knock sensor, but is interchangeable. Also make sure you have smart friends.

Thanks Brian!

Pictures for your troubles.

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Hah your vacuum line routing isn't nearly as bad as other builds I've seen before.

I have a few coworkers with 2J swapped cars.  One of them said his knock sensors were doing something similar, and he swapped his to something else... I think they were some OEM sensor off of some other Japanese car, or maybe even a BMW.

When I get around to it, I'll ask him what he replaced them with.

Another coworker said he has never had that problem with his 2J and neither has any of his 2J buddies.

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This is the first time I ran into this in the 26k miles I put on this swap which is why it stumped the hell out of me. 

Although it doesn’t seem common, I am seeing this is an issue some people run into on JZs. Good thing NA 2JZ knock sensors can be used; those engines are everywhere. Haha

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this whole diagnosis process was pretty fun.  i had no idea how knock sensors worked until that night.  also we both learned that non-us denso ecus love to trigger codes only during the event.  so it’s critical to drive the car, trigger the event, and without shutting the car off, jump the tc to e1 and get the current active codes.  it will save you heaps of time and help avoid the part swap black hole JZs can lead you down. 

also learned how important knock sensors are to turbo JZ ecus.

jzxp garage is always open to locals! 

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If you ever go stand alone, ditch the OEM knocks in favor of some 2pin Bosch units.  Glad it ended up working out though.

IDK why but I used to pull codes as a last resort.  Now its the first thing I do. Quick and easy way to see where to aim my shotgun fix approaches.   I don't know about the vvti2j ecu but if it has OBD2 (technically wouldn't be, because in japan they used some slightly modified version of OBD) I would hook up a reader.  You can get tons of data out of it, plus you can trigger some diagnostic methods with ELMScan Toyota app.  Really helped us on the vvti1uz

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^the factoy Knock sensors work just fine with stand alones. People claim better resolution on the Bosch units, but the JZ only has knock problems in the 6khz range at or close to 3krpm and 5800rpm which the factory sensors pick up just fine.

Zack, if I remember, you have always had problems with your OBD2 port right? I think its how MP wires them up on the factory ECU.

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^^ Didn't really say they were problematic, I know know the bosch unit's are quieter/less noise so you are getting actual knock instead of mischaracterized noise sometimes.  Really helps when you are running ~9.5:1 (possibly higher) on pump gas whoops.

If you were having OBD issues most likely were not using a JOBD compatible scanner

 

Also reminds me the many times Brian has come in clutch for me when I was living in AZ

Thanks Brian ❤️❤️

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I guess i should do a write up on how to hook up the obd2 stuff since you all suck and are finally on the vvti boats.

both my 1j and 3sge have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GVHRPV4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can get all the codes  and livestream all the engine parameters on my phone...

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When I had Panic wire up my swap, he wired me in a OBD 2 port and he gave me a link to those ELM327 scanners that you pair with an Android device and enter in the string, but I could NEVER get it to connect. I have the Android, I have the $10 Torque App, I have 3 ELM OBD scanners, unless they are all DOA. I contacted Mark and verified that the OBD2 port is pinned correctly, but idk what I'm doing wrong.

In my long ass essay update I mentioned that Brian and I tried to hook his OBD scanner program to my OBD2 port with no luck. IDFK ahah

That's why I stick to my Defi's and luckily haven't needed to pull codes until recently.

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I find with most Android's I have issues with any sort of connectivity. I finally got a pixel which I hope solves most of those issues as it's not as far removed as most other phones trying to use Android as an os. I hate apple stuff but the fact everyone in NA uses them you always have answers to any problem that comes up.

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It's an Android tablet, I try to connect to the scanner via wi-fi and/or bluetooth and I can get the Android to connect to the scanner, but I can't get the scanner to talk to the ECU. That is where the app notifies me saying that it cannot talk to the ECU. I don't know if that is a scanner issue, code string in the app issue, or what. Kinda outside of my willingness to diagnose lol.

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I tried to connect techstream and it just kept giving a ecu communications error.  It's probably my cheap ass china reader.  FYI we tried the OBD2 port and the Diag plug (with adapter harness). 

Counting the blinks still worked though you grandstanders.

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