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LUMBERZACK

Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

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Oh, and replace the syncros while its apart. You will thank me later.

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Why would you pay Marlin Crawler to build your trans when you can do it in your garage with a press and some snapring pliers?

 

I paid $600 for my R154. Drove 25k miles out of it. Rebuild is $800. And the trans doesnt fit like shit, I dont have to construct a new trans tunnel, in theory will be plenty strong enough to hold my planned 400-450whp and I dont have to use a conversion by shitty Collins to make it work. I mean $1400 for a built R in my case is a way better setup than making a CD009 fit.

I can see your point if you literally cant get a deal on an R and you cant operate a shop press enough to build the trans yourself, then yah an R154 can be pricey.

 

Plus with the twin disk Im deeply invested in the R. If I were to go 6-speed, eventually it will be T56 magnum. CD009 is overhyped hot garbage and is very noisy/sloppy.

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Chris, Im doing the full marlin crawler/Driftmotion thing, synchros, billet forks, thrust washer, bearings, seals, springs, and whatever else. I already cheaped out once and it bit me. Not planning to drop the trans for a long time

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the cdx trans is an overhyped hoopty. if u can find it for a few hundred bucks, sick...but the conversion gear and misc fuckery to make them fit, a MASSIVE box, the r box is a better option imo. the issue with them is the stupid price they are ( you can even buy them new for cheaper in most cases) which is the equivalent to most of the cost of a used dumpy one. honestly, the trans options for most cars is becoming ridiculous.w's are in the 6 range and r's are in the 8-1k range. cdx low numbers are under or around 5 and the 9's if confirmed are close to 1k. im used to looking at jz motors and being like, hella ya those motors are cheap..wait...thats US and then shipping... so i lose nearly 1k in conversion of money and then an easy 500 to ship...fml...fuck my dollar conversion. not like this is oz where you make 30/hr to start and seem to roll in money where you throw money and not debt (if in USA) at problems.

 

i hate everything. being canadian and living in canada has massive drawbacks if wanting anything not locally...and locally its also stupid expensive. i hate everything

 

 

 

this sucks for you to have happen, especially with all the work. but that small gamble will yield theoretically the best results by having a car that should always work from here on out

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I totally agree.

 

To be fair $30 AUD is equivalent to $21 USD, so still not extravagant pay, but decent for a someone with no kids and possibly a spouse to split the bills with.

 

Yeah I was kinda bummed it happened and doing the work was dreadful, but on a positive note, I wasnt stranded and I didnt break it while I was far away from home. Yes Im hoping that by doing this rebuild and adding stronger parts I will have a reliable setup at a decent power level.

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Got my CD for a whopping 300 bucks, I think that's why I'm so into it haha

 

how much for all the conversion bits though?

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I totally agree.

 

To be fair $30 AUD is equivalent to $21 USD, so still not extravagant pay, but decent for a someone with no kids and possibly a spouse to split the bills with.

 

Yeah I was kinda bummed it happened and doing the work was dreadful, but on a positive note, I wasnt stranded and I didnt break it while I was far away from home. Yes Im hoping that by doing this rebuild and adding stronger parts I will have a reliable setup at a decent power level.

 

their living wage is the same as here, so theyre on average making 10/hr more with similar costs of living. their housing market is as varied as the entire usa with super high price for minimal space in the hot spots of living and then in the desert side, its similar to wisconson i would imagine. its not that they earn the equivilant of 20 bucks usa, its thats how far our dollars go.

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Not gonna disagree about the CD being a massive pain in the ass to fit. Just be aware that the T56 is giant too. Probably a bitch to fit that as well, as I recall gordo saying. I spent like 1k for all the conversion crap between the adapter plate and shifter relocation kit. Any way you slice it, it's not cheap whatever trans you go with

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Thankfully, I can make my own conversion kit parts, and/or make something fit that was made for 'merican nazcrap, but I still have a pretty large price tag in my trans swap.

Playing with cars is not for the faint of heart, or limited budgets.

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I wasn't able to dedicate much time this weekend to working on the trans, but I was able to fully disassemble the rest of the trans and press the bearings and gears off the output shaft.

Output shaft separated from the intermediate plate.

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I'm pretty sure there is a broken thrust washer in there...

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Oops..

 

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The hard anodizing on these billet DM forks looks top notch. Really stoked on these.

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All that 2j torque, ay? RIP

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Get a nice close up shot of one of those 'Nachi' bearings. Want to see if the lettering on the race is laser engraved, or stamped.

If laser, those are probably counterfeit chinaman bearings. The blue boxes kind of look it.....

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I had my sister go check the bearings for me on Facetime and they all check out to be stamped as opposed to lasered. Markings match the bearings that came from the trans. I don't think I've heard of Driftmotion supplying any counterfeit parts. Cheap intercoolers and HKS "Style" BOVs, sure, but they seem to be running a ethical business when it comes to genuine parts.

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Welp, found some time during the week to pick up various diameter steel pipe and tube. I matched these measurements with the inner race of the bearing, while also giving me enough ID, the clear the shaft.

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Finally a weekend that I can dedicate my time to finish this shit.

I grabbed a random picture of pressing on a gear, slider hub and bearing. This is basically 70% of rebuilding the trans.

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Back together! You can see the new MC billet bearing retainer.

 

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These DM hard anodized shift forks look killer.

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Hey, it's a complete transmission again.

 

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Put the trans in, put the car together, and took my dad for a ride to get coffee. Every gear shifted so smooth and crisp. I can effortlessly downshift to second which used to be hit or miss. I'm stoked as hell to have accomplished this rebuild since I never delve into a transmission before. I hoping to be able to get some updates that involve sound clips and drift days.

 

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Thanks man. I did have an issue on the first drive, I could not get into 5th gear. I was able to get in all gears just fine when I was shifting gears on the floor. I ended up sitting in the driveway just shifting in and out of 5th to wear in the gate/synchro. Once it became easier to get into 5th, I took it for a drive and I was able to get it in 5th. I assume it just needed to bed in. Idk everything works great now.

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you got bigger balls than me. id be scared shitless to tear it apart and put back together.

did you have/use any sort of manual or guide while doing it?

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that's a good resource to have thank you.

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The last week or so I have been driving the Cressida daily to work and figuring out the little bugs. 

I have been changing out wastegate springs in attempt to get them to control boost properly. Even with using the lightest spring, although the wastegates would crack open, they were not controlling the boost. I reached out to a friend and after some back and forth, he asked me if I connected a boost reference to the lower port on the wastegate. That's a no from me dog. My theory was that exhaust pressure alone would be what opens the wastegate and controls the boost pressure.
My friend was positive that my theory was wrong and sent me the Tial vacuum diagram that showed how to hook up the wastegates. It showed a boost reference line off the chargepipe to the lower port on the wastegate, which provides adequate pressure to push the wastegate diaphragm and overcome the spring pressure of the wastegate. Basically the compressor side controls the wastegate, not the exhaust. I had nothing to lose, so I got lines made and tee'd AN fittings off my chargepipe.

 

With limited shops open on Saturdays, I used the Stainless water port AN fittings from Tial and my friend Marc welded it to the stainless air port plug that had the correct thread pitch.

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You can see the air port plug on the left in this picture. Marc drilled out the center of the plug and after "Milling" down the threads on the AN fitting, slid the two together. It was fabrication art in its truest form.

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Found these weld on Vibrant AN fittings at a local off-road shop. Really nice quality and I like the trumpet style milling. 

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Welded

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After all of that, the car has been running amazing. The ECU is handling the new single flawlessly. I'm currently running 11.60 wastegate springs and seeing a consistent 1 bar reading from my Defi throughout the rev range on full throttle. AFRs are super healthy 11.2-11.6 WOT. Could be a little rich, but at least my fuel system is adequate for the setup. The thing is much faster than it was with the twins.
With that said, I am definitely going to have it dyno'd to compare the difference.
I'm also going to be doing some preventative heat shielding on hoses and things around the exhaust. The next drift event is on November 17th and I'm preparing my car for it. So I hope to have some good content to post here in a couple weeks.

In the mean time, just look at more pictures.

 

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Cars and Coffee again... lol

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