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LUMBERZACK

Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

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Yo zack, when the time comes for a standalone, if you want a LinkEcu hit me up.

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I don't think any of the recommended tuners in my area use LinkECU. I love the price and features Link offers, but I know it's always better to buy what your tuner prefers. I'll contact you though when I start calling tuners.

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but I know it's always better to buy what your tuner prefers.

100% this, got fucked over by it myself. Tooner was probably just shit in general but whoops

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I am also going to run a link ecu they make a stock replacement for my harness supralink.

 

Far as your coolant pipe you can use a NA version and it stops at the back of the head thats what I have done a few time.

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Yo zack, when the time comes for a standalone, if you want a LinkEcu hit me up.

this!

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I've been running my AEM infinity for 2+ years now... daily driven. I get to keep my "terrible DBW"

 

The price is comparable to the Link when it comes to keeping drive by wire, which i recommend because who wants a dumbass IACV.

 

Oh and the AEM infinity is just better. :P

 

 

Kaizen motorsports can build you a sweet harness, specially since i'm not involved to half ass crimp wires.. Right Jordan?

 

(you can get both the harness and ECU from Kaizen) ;)

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The local Supra guys all recommend the tuner Tony @ UMS who prefers AEM infinity which is what I have been leaning towards.

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Yo zack, when the time comes for a standalone, if you want a LinkEcu hit me up.

 

u sell em?

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If you're like me and live in a hot ass climate year round, you probably thought about bypassing the heater core. Well look no further. The inverter hose for a Lexus HS250h works perfectly as a heater core bypass hose on the 2JZ when going to single turbo. Part Number G9225-75010. Unless you know someone that works at the Lexus dealership that can get you the $30 dealer cost, you may want to sit down for this because Lexus retails this hose at $73..
Fortunately for all you broke boys with less fortunate personal connections, this hose cross references with Gates 18022.

 

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Not sure if that is a good idea....

When the heater is in the circuit, and you are running the heater (cold weather), the water is being cooled by the heater core before it goes back to the water pump.

When the weather is hot, and you are not running the heater, the flow is blocked by the valve, and not returning to the water pump.

 

So now, you are running hot water directly back to the water pump, in hot weather.

 

Good luck with that.....

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Where does the water go in the case the heater valve is closed.

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It just stops.

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Right so that path would fill up and stop, but the flowing water has to go somewhere. I can't find a diagram of how the water flows through the head, but I imagine if it's not flowing out that rear port it will eventually find it's way back to the water pump anyways?

*edit* I must be just thinking about this wrong. Thinking the hot water going the water pump is going to the rad, but it's probably going back into the engine which would make sense.

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Good call Gordo. I researched this a ton. 10% of Supra guys said to cap the nipples and the other 90% said to bypass the heater. I shouldve looked at a coolant flow diagram because after looking at the diagram, I can tell that if I cap it, it would be more beneficial since it will force coolant to the radiator. Ill probably just cap them and if I feel its a good solution, Ill crimp and tig the tees closed.

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Since you already have the hose, and if you can't return it, just push a large ball beating into the end, and leave it.

Or just have someone weld a cap on each nipple, but it kind of fucks it up (just like crimping the ends over) for if you ever want to use the defroster.

 

I've seen a lot of SCCA cars that wish they had kept the heater core, and defroster option, when they have an event in the rain, and their windshield fogs up.

But they saved 3 lbs of weight.....Woopy ding dong!

 

I've made machined plugs before, used with a short length of hose, but that still looks crappy.

I wouldn't use the rubber caps they make for closing off nipples, as they don't have any fiber, or cords in them, and I've seen them burst.

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^^ To add on I've seen a ton of jz people just put a cap and clamp on the extra waterpump nipple when going single turbo. And those eventually fail and leave them on the side of the road.

 

I wish I had mine welded, but I ended up finding a better material cap then the checkers crap. And it's held up fine so far. Only downside was it was like minimum 100 order

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Frost plugs, of the correct diameter, that sit over the ends of the tubes weld up nicely.

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I could just hook up the lines to the heater core. Lol but I kinda don't want to. It rains maybe 9 days a year.

I didn't buy the hose actually, this was info from a friend who found out the hose worked. I ordered the hose from Lexus, but I haven't picked it up.

Yeah I hate those rubber vacuum caps. They barely work as vacuum plugs, let alone anything with heat and pressure. Part of me just wants to tig them shut, but the other part of me wants to clamp a short hose with a machined barbed plug to save for future use. I guess bypassing the hose was an easier decision lol.

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I've seen a ton of jz people just put a cap and clamp on the extra waterpump nipple when going single turbo. And those eventually fail and leave them on the side of the road.

 

I welded mine AFTER that same thing happened...

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