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LUMBERZACK

Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

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What's up dad fuckers?

You've made it this far, you might as well continue reading. This will be my piss poor attempt at a mediocre build thread.
Be forewarned, you most likely won't find any groundbreaking discoveries in this thread. This will likely be your run of the mill standard 2JZ-GTE swapped X8. I plan on doing cool shit and tailoring the car to my style, but I won't be doing anything extraordinary such as: 4-link rear end, highest hp Cressida, ultra drift star, chop top, cressi-truck, or any other outlandish idea you can think of.

This is not to say you won't find enjoyment from this build thread, because I know I will.

Background:
My name is Zack, a recent university graduate residing in Arizona. I come from a background heavily consisting of Subarus. My first car was a Subaru STi that I have driven the last 7 years and I still own. I picked up my 1990 Cressida two years ago as a daily driver that I knew I would begin to modify. Subaru parts are very pricey, so I bought the Cressida as a cheaper way to feed my fix for modifying cars.

In the 2 years I have owned the Cressida, I have accomplished quite a list of things that I didn't envision doing over this period of time. This was all due to unforeseen circumstances that lead me to forego the aforementioned expenditures.

I purchased the Cressida as a rough car that needed TLC, but had plenty of potential, in my eyes. It didn't start, I was told it needed a starter, a clutch, and a battery. I sent the guy the money, he gave me the paperwork and keys, and I had a tow truck arranged to drop the Cressida off at my house.

Parts list as of 01/20/2022:

 

Engine

1997 JZS161 VVT-i 2JZ-GTE ECTS-i

Link G4+ Xtreme ECU

Borg Warner S257sx-e 1.0 A/R T4 twinscroll

Future Fab twinscroll T4 manifold

Tial MVS 38mm external wastegate (x2 conspiracy theory)

Tial QR BPV

Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer 840801

NGK (4589) IFR6T-11 laser iridium spark plug

Panic wire harness to GS300 ECU box

GM IAT sensor

1994 MK4 Supra water temp sender

XM S10 25" Power steering line

XM JZ/Kouki engine bracket

XM engine mount

Custom 3" straight piped turboback to a HKS Hi-Power muffler w/ Ti tip (34005-FK001)

4.5" titanium straight axle back

OEM Toyota MK4 Supra throttle cable

K&N 3.5" pod air intake

Driftmotion universal intercooler kit

Driftmotion pulley kit for alternator/power steering/water pump

SC300 2jz Denso A/C compressor (88320-24120) w/ 7M compressor manifold

Dayco poly-rib 2JZ serpentine belt w/ power steering and a/c

2JZ timing belt

OEM Toyota MK4 Supra mechanical water pump (16100-49847)

Greddy magnetic oil drain plug

Koyorad N-Flo aluminum radiator for JZX100

IS300 radiator fans/shroud & coolant reservoir

PHR 170 degree thermostat

Vibrant -20AN upper radiator hose

OEM Toyota seals (cam/water pump/VVTi cam gear/rear main/front main)

GSC Viton Valve seals

Blitz Oil sensor attachment sandwich plate

MK4 Supra check valve for brake booster

IS300 Power steering pump

Chasebays power steering reservoir

PHR power steering pump AN conversion fitting

Power steering AN conversion

OEM coil pack connector plugs

OEM Toyota exhaust gasket

AZ Performance AN oil drain flange

Denso Narrowband sensor conversion for Aristo

OEM VVT-i oil control valve

OEM Toyota Denso Starter

Setrab 34-row oil cooler

Driftmotion billet oil cooler adapter kit

Mocal 180 degree oil cooler thermostat

TacTuff swirlpot/header tank filler

Vibrant cast turbo elbow

Vibrant intercooler clamp

Custom steam vent coolant bypass

Radium PCV 

Radium -10AN press-in fittings for valve cover

Gold TRD radiator caps

Custom oil filler cap - 24kt gold plated

 

Fuel

Fuelab adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Mooneyes fuel pressure gauge

Radium fuel rail

Radium fuel pulse damper

Deatschwerks Bosch EV14 1050cc injectors

Deatschwerks 300 fuel pump

Earl's hard line to AN-fitting adapter

Radium fuel filter

Radium fuel filter mount with heat sink

Russel nylon braided fuel line with AN-fittings

 

Driveline
MK3 R154 Transmission

Driftmotion 1-2, 3-4, 5-R hard anodized billet shift forks

Marlin Crawler R154 thrust washer

Marlin Crawler R154 billet bearing retainer plate

R154 Nachi bearing kit

OEM Toyota R154 shift synchros

OS Giken TR2CD twin disk & flywheel

OS Giken movement alteration kit

OS Giken JZ flywheel bolts

Nachi Pilot Bearing

OEM Toyota JZ/R bellhousing (31111-14111)

XM series 2 clutch line 53"

XM JZ/R one-piece driveshaft

XM R154 transmission mount

3.2 qts Redline MT-90

NSK Wheel Bearings

OEM MK3 Supra speedometer cable

Differential
MK3 Supra differential LSD
Rebuilt by Ken Francisco of GearInstalls

Weir stage 2 max-grip kit

Weir solid pinion spacer

3.9 ratio ring and pinion

OEM Toyota diff seals and Koyo bearings

OEM Toyota diff breather check valve

OEM Toyota magnetic drain plugs and crush washers

1.2L Motul 75w-90 synthetic gear oil w/ LSD additive

XM diff conversion kit (modified by Marc at BuildRadStuff)

XM rear subframe reinforcement plate

Suspension
Fortune Auto 500 Gen 7 coilovers. 20mm shorter shock bodies. 6" Swift springs. 15k Front/ 10k Rear.

Fortune Auto LCA-mount conversion front endllinks

XM adjustable rear arms

XM front tension rod bushings

XM rear lower pillow balls

XM rear traction rod pillow balls

XM RUCA bushings

XM Rear subframe bushings

Xcessive heim endlinks

XM steering rack bushings + x7 conversion

MX73 steering rack

20mm forward steering rack relocation

Proforged 1987 Corolla inner tie rods (104-10408)

+20mm extended front LCAs

Toyota Crown Comfort Taxi steering knuckles

Toyota Tacoma ball joint in RUCA.

27mm front sway bar 

25mm rear sway bar

 

Brakes
Sumitomo 300zx 300mm aluminum 4-pots front.

Standard pads and rotors

StopTech Braided SS brake lines

Project Mu D1 spec e-brake shoes

 

Exterior
Custom two-tone paint scheme (Champagne/Bronze)

Black door frames

R-M Diamont Base Coat

SPI Universal Clear Coat

Shaved radio antenna

Engine bay sprayed champagne with sahara gold flake (0.015)

Custom bash bars F/R made specifically for BIG☆WIN kit

Authentic BIG☆WIN JZX81 Mark II Type-SP F/B body kit

JZX100 turn winkers

GX81 Mark II sedan headlights with integrated fog lights.

GX81 Mark II sedan grille

Australian MX83 series 2 corner lights

Australian MX83 series 1 boot lock

24kt gold plated door handles - custom engraved

Rickyy's DM aero replica roof wing

SerialNine Type-1 rear bumper

SerialNine Yamaha Wing

Sylvania LED bulbs

Work Emotion XT7 18x9.5 +30 - Federal RS-RR 215/40r18 & Kenda KR20A 235/40r18

Work Emotion limited edition 30th anniversary center caps - Gold

Authentic Ganador aero mirrors

Australian Cressida fender markers with 5mm yellow LED

Prova convex lenses for Ganador mirrors - Yellow

Aerowolf Ganador visors - Gold

 

Interior
Defi BF-Advanced controller and gauges (Turbo, Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure)

AEM X-series 30-0300 A/FR gauge

MK3 Supra brake pedal

Tom's steering wheel w/ Tom's 24kt gold plated horn button

Works Bell Toshiking edition quick release

Bride Zeta 3 Japan (black suede/ super aramid carbon shell)

Bride FO seat rail (MX83/JZX81)

TRD Sports AE86 option reclining bucket seat w/ custom bracket

MOONEYES custom velour dashboard mat

Pioneer headunit

Pioneer speakers

Sylvania LED bulbs throughout

Clear door markers

G-Corporation floor mats - Custom MX83 fitment - Black/Gray checker

Toyota Starlet fog light switch to control GX81 fogs. (Kit made by 'Boristhecat')

Battery relocated to trunk w/ circuit breaker. (Support bracket made by Marc @ Build Rad Stuff w/ ICT Billet Optima battery tray)

JZX81 spin turn drift knob

India market MX83 satellite controls pocket

Xcessive clutch pedal/Celica clutch master cylinder

Serialnine drift spin turn knob

Reupholstered arm rest

GX81 9k RPM tachometer

 

 

Progress pictures to follow..

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Since I bought the car without being able to start it, I was taking a leap of faith and putting a lot of trust in the seller's honesty. Overall I am not disappointed in the car that I bought although there were more issues with the car than I anticipated.
To list Cons:
The car didn't start, the car needed a battery, and the clutch wouldn't disengage. After fixing those issues and driving the car, I came to find out:

The Problem - My Solution

The key I had only worked on the driver lock and ignition, the trunk lock and passenger lock didn't match - Rekeyed all of the locks

Cracked windshield - Replaced windshield

The hazards didn't work - found out there was no fuse

The horn didn't work - was on same fuse as hazards

The wipers didn't work - Wiper control module was fried

No power locks worked - Needed new motors

The tachometer/fuel level and engine temp didn't work - same ground not bolted to chassis

The interior illumination lights didn't work - no fuse

Fuses panel had different amp fuses than what was specified - fixed per vehicle specs

No antenna - picked up at junkyard

No cupholders - bought from a member

Fuel door was cock-eyed - Broke it, rewelded it, miraculously centered itself

Missing footwell covers - picked from a Cressida part out

Missing mirror adjustment knob - picked from a Cressida part out
Broken arm rest latch - picked from a Cressida part out

Cracked interior door handle insets - picked good condition from a Cressida part out

Missing interior bolts everywhere - picked up a bunch from a junkyard Cressida

Weather strips were too far deteriorated - picked up a good set

Broken sun visors - bought from a member

Radio didn't work - installed new head unit

Steering wheel wouldn't zero out (rack was moving) - XM rack bushings

Braking would cause a variant of death wobble - New brakes and suspension

Suspension was bouncy and shot - New suspension

No hood struts - bought hood struts

A/C didn't work - Does now

W58 didn't have a shift boot, allowing air and fumes from the exhaust leak at the header to enter the cabin - R154 has boot

Drive axle boots had disintegrated - bought new axles

Carrier bearing rubber disintegrated and 2 piece driveshaft flexed and clunked - I went one-piece

Engine leaked oil and threw a rod in 5,000 miles - swapped it

Paint was shit - Painted it

 

Considering all of this, I'm happy with the car because it is a clean body, matching VINs and rust free. It's 25 years old and I wouldn't expect everything to work flawlessly. If it all worked, it wouldn't have been for sale for how cheap it was.

 

These pictures are spanning the time frame of the first time I saw the Cressida in person, to when it first landed in my driveway in 2015.

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Now I see why the clutch didn't work. 4 of the 6 flywheel bolts I was able to spin with my hands and one was backed out so far that it was contacting the clutch disk. Shitty snapchat quality pic.

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By this time my 7m had acquired rod knock in the short 5,000 daily driven miles that I put on it. I began preparing for a 2jz swap. I picked up this JZ/R flywheel and R154. My Cressida came 5-speed swapped with a w58, but I did not want to put that trans behind a GTE.

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Ripping out that disgraceful 7M and indulging in some much needed spring cleaning. I wish I had more photos of the stock engine bay to display how oily and covered in gunk the engine and bay were. You could hardly tell what engine it was as it appeared like a black lump.

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Meticulously picking out my new engine from a local importer "JDM Hotline" in Arizona and bringing her home.


They did a dry compression test with my presence and the engine showed right about ~160 psi across the board. No oil was present in the charge piping or seeping out of any crevices, so it appeared to be a clean, strong unit.

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Awesome P-N-P swap service provided by the legend himself, Mark Panic. Great guy, great service. 10/10 would recommend.

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I stayed fairly conservative with this swap. I didn't go all out. I replaced typical maintenance items such as water pump, thermostat, timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, serpentine belt, various gaskets, seals, and spark plugs.

I didn't want to do too much as I wanted to verify the engine and swap was a solid platform to modify as I wasn't 100% sure the condition my engine and r154 were in. I played it safe for the time being.

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SC300 A/C compressor fitted. Arizona summers are fucking brutal, so this mod is a must. I used the 7m compressor manifold fitted to the SC compressor to allow me to utilize the factory Cressida lines. I had to perform a bit of grinding to the PS bracket to accommodate for the manifold lines.

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By this time it has been running and driving. I took it to a buddy's shop to get the A/C charged. Ice cold as usual.

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I was driving the car open downpipe up until I bought this HKS Hi-Power muffler and had a straight 3-inch pipe made to it. Surprisingly the open downpipe was very tolerable. I assume the twin turbos muffle and quiet the sound of the engine quite a bit.

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Road trip to Northern Arizona! Bet you didn't think we had aspens did ya? I fucking hate these Crown Vic meshies.

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My speedo cable started making the needle jump around and before I could give it some graphite lube, it broke, so I had to scoop one up.

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One of the many issues that the car had when I bought it was that the steering wheel would never zero out. If I turned right, the steering wheel will be tilted to the right, if I turned left, the steering wheel would still be tilted left after straightening out. Obviously the rack was moving and you can see the reason why..

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Splurged on a new seat. Only one since it cost more than I paid for the car.. I'm using mx83/jzx81 Bride sliders.

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JZX100 Koyorad fitted and K&N air filter (Don't buy the shitty CX racing filter, it began deteriorating on me in the short month that I was using it).

JZX100 radiator fits awesome. Top mounts sit perfect, bottom mounts need to be relocated. It keeps the car running nice and cool during these harsh 120 degree summers.

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