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Dustin

When it's halfway out........start to giggle

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looks like a good height from the photo. maybe adjust it after you have the wheels and tires on?

side note, would you be interested in trading that texas plate for a BC plate? I like old licence plates and have a few BC plates to trade if youre interested?

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Only issue I have with the height is I scrape when backing out of the drive way. But I already thought of what you're suggesting. Measured the overall outer diameter of the wheels/tires that are on there right now. Measured 23". Called my brother and had him measure his overall and it was 24". That gets me my half in higher. Once I get new plates I'll send you this one. But it won't be until next year probably.

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Rolled the rear fenders and did a minimal pull on them. Test fitted wheels to make sure they cleared. Found a door to some sort of machine we used to have made out of 14 gauge steel that was collecting dust in the shop so I cleaned it up and am going to use it for subframe reinforcement via the tracings Gordo sent me. Found a No Smoking box on Yahoo Japan. I'm that type of gay and had to have it so...........

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You need to keep that 'Caution' sticker !

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Ordered my turbo today and just got an email this evening that my turbo manifold will be shipped tomorrow. Stoked for that to get here. Did the rear brakes today as well.......well, some of it. Rebuilt the calipers, put on the Brembo rotors, and the stainless steel brakes lines. The shoes for the parking brake are garbage. Have to order them on Monday. The pads still have plenty of life left on them but I'll probably order new next week as well just to have all new. Didn't have any brake fluid so bleeding will have to wait until tomorrow.


Nasty shit

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Rebuild kit

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All cleaned up

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Fresh coat of paint

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And installed

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Two more deliveries today. Got a RHD crossmember that will work with the Xcessive mount brackets and my manifold from Future Fabrication arrived as well.


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Forgot to mention this arrived a few days ago from Lofty. Thank you sir.

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And what turbo are you going with ?

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I'm pretty unhappy with that xcessive clutch pedal. You read the instructions yet? Shit is a joke.

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Oh crap.

Should have known it was too good to be true.....

 

Please explain, or post instructions that they included.

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Just read the instructions. Not sure what the issue is. Seems pretty thorough and very well explained. But I'm retarded so that could also be a factor.



Not too much to report. Cleaned up the RHD cross member. That's about it. Waiting on turbo to not be on backorder and the standalone to ship.


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Here are the instructions they provided:


Installation Instructions


1. Remove the under tray from the dash below the steering column for better access and visibility to under the dash. You will also need to go under the dash and remove or relocate a few of the stock electronic units that sit where the new clutch will go. They are the factory alarm and door open unit. You can now get access to cut away some of the sound deadening/rubber from around the pass through on the firewall and on top where the new bracket will be. You can test fit the clutch assembly to see the areas to be cut away.

2. The factory firewall has the mounting holes already formed in for the master cylinder to pass through. You will only need to remove the hole plugs if they are there.

3. Put the clutch master through the firewall from the outside and fit the new pedal mount to the inside, you can start the two 8mm regular nuts that will hold the clutch master and pedal bracket but do not tighten them at this time. The new mount bracket has two holes at the end. You will want the inner hole, not the one at the tip. This will attach to the stock sheet metal under the dash with the 8mm x 35mm bolt/washer and the spacer tube. The washer goes under the bolt head, the spacer tube goes between the body and clutch bracket. Put the 8mm bolt and spacer sleeve in with the bracket in place. With all three mounting points attached, you can tighten them in a manner that pulls it all down evenly.

4. You can now attach the pedal to the clutch master cylinder push rod with the allen head bolt and nylock nut provided, do not tighten the bolt/nut at this time. Check the height of the pedal with the brake pedal and adjust the push rod on the clutch master accordingly by adjusting the fork end that came with the master cylinder. With the height set, you can now put the bolt and nylock nut together. You do NOT need to tighten the bolt all the way down, just until the nylock has engaged the threads of the bolt to keep the bolt from backing out. The adjustment fork can be loose fitting around the clutch arm. Be sure to tighten the lock nut for the clutch push rod to the adjuster clevis also.

5. While the clutch assembly should fit without cutting the brake pedal, there are some differences that may require modification for best fitment. We also recommend cutting the brake pedal foot section off for better clearance between the two pedals. We usually trim the brake pedal to the left of the brake arm and leave all the pedal on the right side.

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seems like the exact process for mounting other toyota pedals that use all three bolts

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Fucking photo bucket can suck my balls. Got all my images back up now. Still waiting on turbo and stand alone, but I've gotten a few other small things done since. Finally got tires so no more ugly steelies. Had to raise the front left up 3/4"so it wouldn't rub. Need to raise the front right another 1/4" to match it. Ordered ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Installed new rear main seal, put on the flywheel and new pilot bearing.

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