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DwreckTheHinga

"Half China Bullshit Build"

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So I'm getting a little further along in my build, and I haven't been on here much at all, but thought maybe I'll post some of my build stuff up so that everyone can either check it out, or send me death threats or whatever it is you guys fancy.

Here's the 90' when I bought it.
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Despite the fact that it was half vinyl wrapped, it was in pretty good shape.

It came with this super sweet 7M that had a BHG between 5 and 6.
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So I took that out, and all sorts of other stuff.

I deleted the ABS and made all new hard lines and placed a Wilwood prop valve in the midst of it all. Also went with some aluminum Z32 front brakes calipers, Hawk HP Plus pads, and R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors. I'm running the prop valve backward of what Wilwood says because I rather adjust the bias in the front than the rear... maybe I'll die, maybe I won't. Don't know yet, but for right now the brakes work well enough to stop it at about 3mph (pushing speed).
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Since installing the rotors I decided to pop on the ARP wheel studs since I need a spacer for these knock off wheels I currently am rolling around on, plus I can sleep better at night knowing I have more ARP stuff on my car.

Oh, I also did the whole MK3 diff swap thing with all the xcessive bits.

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I'm not too concerned with all the rest of the suspension stuff yet... I really just want to get this thing driving, then handle the suspension stuff later. (get it? Handle the suspension stuff? HANDLE?)

Okay, enough of that.

Anyways, I'm going to put this engine in it.
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Just kidding.

I already did.

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Since I took that picture, I also ran most of the fuel lines and made a cute little lid to access my fuel tank stuff.

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But there's no fuel pump in there. It's under the car. I went with a Bosch 044 and decided to run it inline because it's more convenient if there are any issues in the future.

I'm still waiting on my AN clamps to make the lines look all pretty under the car, so no pictures of those right now.

Here's what's in the engine bay for now....
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I have the engine mounted as far back as the xcessive mounts allow, as I've also made my trans tunnel a little larger where it meets the firewall... except apparently I can't use the xcessive trans mount (as it was designed) if I want to run everything that far back... so I'm going to make my own trans mount this weekend.

Where I currently stand:
Need to get MK3 trans stuff to convert my remote shift R154 to get the shifter in the right place (will order everything from Driftmotion once it's all released)
Need a driveshaft
Mount and route oil cooler/lines
Mount and route power steering cooler/lines
Mount and route intercooler piping
Run wiring...

Get a tune...

Then begin all the suspension stuff.

I only work on the car one day a week, and am in no rush... so if this doesn't get updated super frequently or whatever... that's why.

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The engine as it sits has-
ARP head studs
New OEM headgasket
New OEM water pump
New OEM oil pump and strainer
New OEM front main seal
New OEM rear main seal
K's Racing T3 Turbo manifold
780cc injectors

GReddy T67 w/ .73AR Exhaust
GReddy intercooler
Tial MVR wastegate...
Evolution lightweight flywheel
ACT 6 Puck unsprung clutch

Will be tuned on PFC D-Jetro.

I think that's it?

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Thought Da Wreck was doing halfway decent until I came to the diamond plate & door hinge red neck crap.

Contaminated the whole build........

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Someone delete an old thread so it's back to 666.

Seriously R U I N E D

 

 

 

Be careful that diamond plate don't fly off when you hit your 2nd bottle of NOS trying to run one on Toretto

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Even the Chinese don't put diamond plate on anything.......

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If that's all anybody has to complain about, I guess I'm doing okay otherwise.

I originally just had a piece of aluminum riveted down around the cut, but it looked sketchy to me...

While diamond plate isn't exactly "full of class" it's a functional door in case I should need to access the tank.

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so...why do people swap in the MKIII diff? seems like a lot of work just to have a garbage factory LSD...or am I missing something? we have a bunch fo factory LSDs here in Canada. I have one sitting in a box that I have no idea what to do with it

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so...why do people swap in the MKIII diff? seems like a lot of work just to have a garbage factory LSD...or am I missing something? we have a bunch fo factory LSDs here in Canada. I have one sitting in a box that I have no idea what to do with it

 

 

I think people do it for the additional mount on the nose of the diff.

I'm sure that is part of the reason, but also for my sake- I have the 4.3 rear gear. Since I plan to use this car for drifting, the higher rear gear will help keep me in a better RPM band... in theory.

 

In drag racing most street style cars there also run higher rear gears so that the power gets put down "faster"... it's hard to explain for me. I'm not a teacher. lol

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and you fucking changed the wastegate from you engine glam shot to the actual installed photo. way to fuck up.

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While diamond plate isn't exactly "full of class"

 

It has NO class!

Zero, Zilch, Nada.

It's not even up to SCCA standards of plywood.............

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I have the 4.3 rear gear...... the higher rear gear will help keep me .......

 

it's hard to explain for me. I'm not a teacher. lol

 

It's a LOWER gear dumb ass...........

A 'higher' gear would be a 3.7.

 

Nope, not a teacher,

not even a 4th grade failing math student.

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It's a LOWER gear dumb ass...........

A 'higher' gear would be a 3.7.

 

Nope, not a teacher,

not even a 4th grade failing math student.

LOL Like I said, I understand it, but have no clue how to explain it. Higher number = lower top speed. Lower number = Higher top speed. There. lol

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and you fucking changed the wastegate from you engine glam shot to the actual installed photo. way to fuck up.

I don't understand? It's the same wastegate? MVR...

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im waiting to see the 50% that wasn't made in china.

Also the only thing so far that I know of that was made in Taiwan was the manifold. Everything else is authentic...

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It has NO class!

Zero, Zilch, Nada.

It's not even up to SCCA standards of plywood.............

Lastly, I don't have a bead roller to make a sturdy trap door with, so I settled for this, and it works fine, so fuck it.

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I understand how rear gear sets work. I've changed mine in the supra and have another one for my s13. Didn't know a 4.3 was available. Dorp. Good info to know.

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I understand how rear gear sets work. I've changed mine in the supra and have another one for my s13. Didn't know a 4.3 was available. Dorp. Good info to know.

Stolen from MKIIItech.com-

 

'86.5 - '90 GA70s w/the 1G-GE have a 4.56, clutch-pack or Torsen LSD 7.5" differential, NOT compatible with any of the other A70 diff setups.

 

All 1G-GTE equipped GA70s have a 4.56, clutch-pack or Torsen LSD differential.

 

'86.5-'92 MA70 N/A MKIIIs without Sport Package have a 4.30, open differential.

 

'86.5-'92 MA70 N/A MKIIIs with Sport Package (TEMS & headlight washers on '86.5 - '88 : TEMS & PPS on '89-'92) have a 4.30, clutch-pack LSD differential.

 

'87 - '88 MA70 turbo MKIIIs have a 3.91 clutch-pack LSD differential.

 

'89+ MA70 turbo MKIIIs have a 3.73 clutch-pack LSD differential.

 

'90 - '92 JZA70 Limited and R MKIIIs manual trans cars have a 4.10 Torsen LSD differential and auto trans cars have a 3.91 Torsen LSD differential.

 

Note that a LSD was an option- so you could get a NA base model w/a LSD.

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That info isn't all right as not all ga70 had an lsd. The 4.56 is correct though. And yeah, Battleaxe... na mk3 Supra is the diff you want.

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I'll see what the dyno tells me next weekend. I like the driveability of the long gearing and i don't feel the car lagging at all

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Im in.

Mostly since this is the only half decent "build" in a few months and it's less janky than slammed's build.

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9k racing.

 

Got any of them dildo shifters that you never intended on giving away?

We haven't sold 9K branded bubble shift knobs in years... we do have the aluminum and steel knobs available currently. Including the weighted ones.

 

I'll see what the dyno tells me next weekend. I like the driveability of the long gearing and i don't feel the car lagging at all

 

What's your current setup? I would probably go with a 3.73 if I planned to street it often... However, since I decided to stick with the R154 instead of the CD009, I figured I could use the faux torque of the 4.3.

 

Every build/intention is different, so the longer gears may very well suit your car perfectly.

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